Stephen Edholm grows a lot of late ripening varieties.
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My suggestion is you can leave the Arkansas Black apples on the tree down to at least 24-26 degrees if you need to. No harm done even at 20 in some instances.
I left some in cab of my pickup truck in zone 6b until after x-mas and they were still ok.
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I am going to try that this year.
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@BlueBerry … I’m interested in Northwest Greening. What rootstock do you have it on? And does it store well?
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On B-118 and more recently on G-202. I’ve not gotten to sample the fruit yet.
pomiferous.com might give you more insight or ask @smsmith here on the forum.
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NW Greening is considered to be a “pie apple” by most folks I think. We eat them fresh, but there are plenty of other apples better for fresh eating IMO. The fruit is kind of dry, tart/sweet, dense flesh, late ripening (mid-late October here) and will hang through temps in the mid 20s. I picked a couple off my tree and ate them during last November’s deer season. They were still tasty and not mushy. My tree is on Antonovka. Very hardy, has seen plenty of -30 and lower temps.
NW Greening is a variety that most home/farmsteads in the upper midwest used to have.
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It’s large.
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Yep, some of the NW Greening apples get huge.
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Dear @fieldsofgreen: Please let me know if you can share the seeds of Snow heirloom apple or if you can direct me to some vendors.
In exchange, I can send fig cuttings (if you like). Thank you
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I Googled it as I am interested in it, too, and found several suppliers but most are sold out or no longer carry it. One supplier has a bare root for about $36.
I will happily share Snow seeds with anyone interested but it will have to wait until fall 2022. I will put up a post when they are available 
We were 100% spray free on about 700 dwarf trees for a 2 year test. About 20 varieties including some heritage and some “disease free” PRI varieties. Used typical commercial spray schedules for 7 previous years. Had some good years but lost most apples 2 years in a row with record breaking rainfall using a 14 day schedule.
No dormant oil, no copper, fungicide or insecticide during 2 year test
Year 1- All varieties failed except Old Fashion Winesap. Mostly due to rot
Year 2 - All varieties failed including OFW. CAR was so bad on OFW it deformed and destroyed fruit
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Camack’s Sweet is looking fine…has not been sprayed all year (except a deer repellent).
Hoping for fruit finally next year…Tree from Tom Brown about 2015 on M111.
One limb on Braeburn has fireblight on tip.
Neighbor’s Snow tree looked nearly defoliated.
Others on my list still looking good.
I’m always impressed by how trouble free my Northern Spy’s are- Antonovka’s as well.
Feral Duchess are more variable, but also pretty trouble free.
All three of those are just as easy to keep as ‘Liberty’ for me.
A new one this year is ‘Gideon’ from MOFGA/Fedco, which looks to be very robust, but hasn’t fruited yet. It’s one of Peter Gideon’s stock, and more properly called ‘Early Gideon’, since he himself did in order to distinguish it from his “Gideon Late”.
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So, you’re saying that really nothing looks good this time of year without regular spraying?
At your location, anyhow?
Located in central NC zone 7B. Humidity is normally so bad during the bloom period that no rain is required to create a big FB problem. The grass and trees are normally saturated with dew
We returned to typical spray schedule this year but increased the interval between sprays during periods with no rain to reduce chemical use as much as possible. Also, we sprayed no Strep or Apogee for fireblight this year which produced a lot FB but the trees were old enough to tolerate it. Did not try to cut it out as it developed but plan to remove as much as possible in the fall.
Bottom line is that it’s just about impossible to grow sellable apples in my area with zero synthetic chemicals.
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There’s something I can relate to, it sounds like my climate. Re: Northern Spy for example, those things turn into rotted mush balls on the tree here and that is even with a few sprays. This year I think only Hunge, Yates, Pristine, and Rambour d’Hiver out of 50 or so varieties are looking totally clean (minus the bug damage). Many are mostly clean so are perfectly fine, but a good chunk would not be sellable.
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I get a lot of the rotted mush balls just like you describe. Then the rotten apples fall on the ground and become a source of infection for next season. Bitter Rot destroys the fruit and and a similar fungi called Glomerella causes the trees to drop the leaves. Takes an expensive fungicide like Merivon to manage the rots late in the season.
Lots of rain and high humidity makes apple growing hard but it’s a lot better than constant forest fires that are becoming so common in dry areas
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Linking my discussion about leaf spot diseases. Seems to be fungal marssonia vs septoria or something else.
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I’d like to add another vote for Hunge, a probable NC native, here. It and Hauer Pippin are consistently the cleanest apples in my orchard, but the latter may (or may not) require too long a growing season to ripen for you. Hunge, by contrast, is relatively early.
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