There is a strong possibility that we will be moving this winter to another location near one of my daughter/family. This has not been an easy decision. The move is not because of any health issues although we are older. I’m looking for advice on moving fruit trees from one location to another and how big of a tree is it practical to move with the basic home tools such as a shovel, pick, and a long pry bar. I’m mostly thinking about apple trees with M111 roots/B9 interstems/Scion variety. These trees will be traveling about 60 minutes. I have a variety of size trees and I think that there are enough to thin out and plant all I want without destroying the current orchard. Any advice will be appreciated.
2 Likes
If I was going to do several trees, unless you have unlimited time, I think I would hire someone with a tree spade on a truck to come and dig them for you. You can ball and burlap them or wrap the root balls in tarps etc… as they dig them for you. Then transport and dig your new holes yourself to keep cost manageable. It will take a lot of digging to move any trees more than 2-3 years old and expect the survivability rate to be very high. Keep in mind the root system on most trees is equal to the canopy size as a general rule.
2 Likes
Thanks for the advice. I think I will have an estimated 2-3 months. Plenty of time to collect scions and attempt digging some of the smaller trees. I dug and potted up two this morning that were about .75"-1" diameter this morning and they looked okay but they will have to have a lot of after planting care. Bigger than those would probably do too much root damage and possibly damage to me.
2 Likes
Apples and oranges here…well pears. When I first moved to my property I had to cut down some pear trees that had really bad fire blight. 6’-7’ tall with trunks from 3"-4". I dug up one of the root balls with hand tools and wow was that a job. The roots went a lot deeper and wider than I expected. I think they use air spades for this sort of thing now. Sounds like you will at least have a lot of grafting to do next year! Good luck.
1 Like
Thanks. I have some larger diameter trees and my plans are to leave them behind. I only have two possible pear trees that I could dig by myself but I know that the roots tend to go downward much faster than apple root M111. I actually want to leave the next owner a good orchard if they choose to keep them.
I have transferred plenty of muscadines and they are relatively easy. I already have these in pots. I air layered seven hazels and they are in pots and there are two smaller ones that probably could be dug up.
When do you start air layering a bush?
Thanks
1 Like
All my air layers are put on during the dormant stage but you probably can root them during most of the warm season. I like to do these at this time because I’m bored and looking to do something. My exception is muscadines and I have rooted them most all of the summer.
It is always emotionally hard to leave the trees you planted behind, even when you are moving to a happy place. Take care.
2 Likes
It is hard to pack up and leave behind several years of orchard growing just as things are coming together with pretty good crops. The good part is having family close by and seeing the grands daily. We are also teaching online classes for the grands and this will be much easier in person. Grammar and math is easier in person.
6 Likes
With your experience, you will have a new orchard in no time. Your grands will be lucky to have all the goodies you make for them. It will be very good for you to do in person teaching, they will learn much more that way. 
1 Like
If you have a good yard crew, like I have, they can remove the trees you want to take with you and replant them. I’ve done it a number of times. Just be sure to do it, when they’re dormant. You’ll lose a year’s production, while the trees reestablish themselves, but new pear trees will take at least 5 years, before they’ll fruit. Just plan your move, and it should work out fine.
2 Likes
I second the “make sure they’re dormant”. Beyond that, dig as large as you want, but if they’ve been in current location more than about 3 years, you’ll certainly lose a bunch of roots. Yet, even bare-rooted, if dug dormant, a 1 inch diameter tree should live fine…apple or peach or pear.
2 Likes
I moved 4" diameter trees without any issues when I had to leave my orchard due to grocery store construction. It’s a problem to dig them out with roots being so long and strong. I cut down the canopy significantly too cause you will remove a lot of roots in the process.
Many trees were over 10ft tall. It’s good to do it only with some precious varieties that you cannot but, otherwise I wouldn’t bother again.
3 Likes
Glad to hear you are moving closer to family! Sorry to hear that you are having to relocate stuff though. Good luck with moving whatever you can @Auburn
2 Likes
Thanks Ray. One year loss would be excellent. I should have mentioned that I am the yard guy.
1 Like
Thanks
1 Like
The few apple trees I have dug up haven’t been difficult but these are not 4" diameter. As I put them in pots I’m cutting them back. I also think the cut back is important.
1 Like
Congratulations on your upcoming move. It’s hard to leave plantings behind but a great opportunity to start over with all the knowledge you’ve gained in your growing. Hopefully the new owner will appreciate what you leave behind and be inspired by it. Keep us updated as time allows.
1 Like
I dug up a couple of pear trees on Callery roots and a couple of apple trees on M111 roots. The root systems are completely different to me. The M111 was a mass/cluster of smaller roots that uprooted pretty easy while the Callery was a loose root system that appeared to be going for deeper soil levels. I’m not sure what this means to my transplanting project but I think in the short term the M111 will adjust faster. After only a few years in the soil it is easy to see why the wild Callery is considered invasive. The wild Callery survives and grows aggressively in our hot dry summer weather.
4 Likes