We’re moving to a new piece of property in TN, zone 7B. I’m putting together an order for next season, to expand the orchard (apple trees and peach trees are already in place).
I’ve read everything there is to read, but would like to hear about all of y’all’s real world experiences before I invest the next several years to growing these. The varieties that have made my final list for each fruit are below. Any input is appreciated.
i dont think you really need both celeste and lsu purple, lsu purple is a child of celeste and is pretty similar.
Instead id consider a good honey variety or a more deep berry fig. I’m not sure whats ideal in your climate but id look at Izbat an naj and iranian candy for honey figs. For berry id get a smith or a tx ba-1 or cessac. theyre all very similar figs but have slight differences. either way produces a ton and is an all star fig.
Celeste is a solid pick for 7B, basically bulletproof. Agree with the above that LSU Purple overlaps a lot with it though, you might get more variety out of that slot with something like a honey type or a darker berry fig. Chicago Hardy is worth having as an insurance policy if you get harsh winters, it comes back from the roots reliably even if the top dies. For pears, if you are doing Moonglow and Bartlett make sure you have a pollinator sorted since Bartlett can be fussy about that. Congrats on the new property.
I can’t recommend Olympic Asian pears enough, and Raja is supposed to be great, earlier smaller and just as crunchy and juicy,a but keeps ou busy while waiting for the Olympic pears. Unfortunately haven’t tried Raja yet despite planting two.
I have had terrible luck with Asian pears and fireblight. Others find them easier. Whatever fireblight strain is in my area does a number of Asian pears especially (but also doesn’t spare euros).
I am really loving Newberry (a blackberry hybrid).
All my Hosui grafts died from something that looked like fireblight, and the tree I bought and planted too.
Most of my Olympic pear grafts lived, and the Olympic (aka Korean Giant) tree on betulafolia rootstock is the most reliable bearer and the fruit only suffers from birds attacking the fruit in years that the apples are not bearing, basically at all.
No spray and it’s great. 4 inch russet pears that easily store 5 months. Most Asian pears are great pollinators and so is D’Anjou which also stores just as well.
1.Figs consider “Hollier” for a bulletproof light/honey type of fruit. For me here in NE GA has proven to be winter hardy, heavy bearer, early to ripen, beautiful tree. A winner for sure.
Asian (non astringent) persimmons are in my opinion a must have for autumn fruit. You can have fruit for several weeks until a really hard freeze, seedless, can be eaten while crisp, no issues with hardiness here. Also your muscadine and blueberry choices look like good ones to start off. All the best to you growing in the future!! randy/GA
From my little bit of reading, both Shinko and Korean Giant are fireblight resistant - according to Cummins. So we may give them a try. Thank you for the recommendation.
I lean away from plants that need a considerable amount of babysitting. Maybe in the future, if we are find ourselves favorably disposed to such a project. But right now I need things that will survive on their own for the next couple years.
There are a couple citrus that shouldn’t need any winter protection in your area besides the trifoliate orange ones (though there are improved versions).
The Prague chimera, can supposedly take down to -8°f (there are reports of it taking below -10°f) no problem, but when it gets below zero it won’t set much fruit. The tree has a tendency to be leggy. The fruit is a high quality easy peeling satsuma.
The Dragon Lime is a very cold hardy thing supposedly has reliably taken several degrees below zero without damage. Tree looks ornamental. Fruit has bitterness that some don’t like, lime flavor when underripe, and orangy flavor the more ripe it is.