Southeast MI. I bought bark protection paint, but can’t stand the look of it in non-winter months. And until I read up on it, it seemed just like something one did without knowing details and I don’t want to do it just ‘because’. If it is the best option then so be it as I understand it can help one see borers, repel them, and it protects from sun on the trunk. The tubes don’t seem like the best idea (mice, borers). Other options that are as good? Is there a white screen option out there?
How long does one use white on the trunks?
Also, would I paint all my young trees? Bare root anywhere from 1-6’ tall. Apple, quince, cherry, peach, persimmon, paw paw (had white row cover over them during the summer for some shade but it’s getting whipped around without nearby leaves now), medlar.
I also live in SE Michigan south of Ann Arbor. I have all kinds of fruit trees. Apple, Pear, Peach, Plum Pawpaw Cherries etc. I have never painted any of my trunks and my trees are all growing well.
I think people who live in sunnier climates tend to paint trunks.
I’m in Saint Clair Shores and I have never painted any of my trees, either.
I did have a jujube that exhibited splitting, but my thought has been that it was a case of poor graft healing rather than something I could have prevented by painting the trunk.
the reason i paint mine is snow. when it melts in the spring exposing much of the tree, the remaining snow reflects light back onto the bark then it freezes back at night damaging the bark. the paint prevents that. my father taught me to use diluted latex on apple trees . it also somewhat deters bugs and mice from chewing / boring in on the lower bark.
Also in SE Michigan. I painted one of my small orchards this year, but not sure it was necessary. I had bad sun scald damage on some espalier pears last year. The trunks got direct south sun all winter with no shadows to protect them due to the nature of the espalier layout. I painted a bunch of the trees this year, just in case.
Anywhere with snow, direct winter sun, and the possibility of below zero temps will benefit from trunk painting. Here in central MN, if I don’t paint the trunks in my orchards my trees will definitely get sunscald. Don’t ask me how I know…
Yes, once the bark becomes mature. Generally around 7-10 years here.
I have quite a few trees so what I do is mix in a bucket; 1/2 gallon of white latex paint, a quart of drywall compound, and just enough water (probably less than a pint) to get the mix thin enough to apply with a cheap 3.5 or 4" paint brush. I just buy the cheapest brushes I can find and toss 'em when done. If the mix gets too thick after a few hours in the field painting trunks, just add a bit more water to loosen it up.
It is a laborious project, but I’ve found that going with the mix ^^^ I use I can get away with doing it once every 2 years.
I mix 50-50 paint and water and put it in a dish soap bottle, then squirt it right through the hardware cloth enclosures. Maybe carry along a small brush for touch-ups. Fast and easy, but you go through a lot of paint. We get it free at a recycle place. It lasts about two years.
At farms, it is recommended to paint diluted white latex paint on lower trunks of young trees. This is mainly to protect the trees from sun. It is all protective measure. This is cheap and won’t take much time. Just no harm.
I paint the lower 18" of my 300 pawpaw trees with undiluted latex exterior house paint. Three reasons:
“Southwest disease”–freeze/thaw syndrome can be serious on thin barked trees
It may prevent borers
Protection from the glyphosate I spray around the trees for grass and weeds
It’s time consuming, but the best approach I have found so far is a very thick-napped paint roller. I think setting up a paint spray system in the orchard would be too much trouble.
I know a guy who uses a portable generator mounted on an utv to run a power sprayer to spray hundreds of trees. Works very well. I’m just too cheap to go that route
