Northern Mid-Atlantic: SE-PA/N-VA/MD/NJ/DE Region

@ampersand You’d think growing up a piney that I’d be all about blueberries and tomatoes but I’ve never had a taste for them. Blueberries are sort of bland to me and tomatoes I don’t want in their raw form. Turn them into salsa, bruschetta, or sauce and I’m all about it. I still grow both for the wife and kids though, and for the smell of tomato plants. Growing up with them makes it nostalgic. We always had an outsized garden growing up and did rather well with minimum fertilizer. But that was annual garden plants which left me less concerned with the soil composition than I should have when I decided to try my hand at fruit trees. Now I’m working backwards trying to improve the soil health in hopes that it will make what I have going a bit more robust against the myriad of pests and disease that you learn about growing tree fruit. I have yet to try a persimmon. When speaking to the local farm stand owner he mentioned that he’s looking to have some available in the next couple of years.

I am trialing quite a bit though. I have a host of apples (granny smith, sundance, crimson crisp, chestnut crab, redlove era, honeycrisp, airlie red flesh, winesap, ashmeads kernel, and a multigraft with unknown varieties that has suffered many indignities but is still living). I’ll be grafting some new varieties in over time. Additionally I have a few peaches (reliance and majestic), a nectarine (arctic glo), a sweet cherry multigraft, and montmorency cherry. That does it for tree fruit.

I’m also giving a few odd things that don’t grow on a tree a shot. Two grapes (Canadice & Lacrosse), hardy kiwi (Issai & september sun), a josta berry, a few filberts (3 seedlings, 1 theta), pomegranate (wonderful and what I believe is surh anor), three maypop varieties, carmine jewel cherry, a few raspberry (crimson night, double gold), blackberry (black satin & baby cakes), currants (Johnkeer Van Tets, Pink Champagne, Lewis) and the aforementioned blueberry which are in a terrible location.

A bunch is more of a trial than anything else. I had 4 pomegranates. Three are/were cold hardy but they didn’t cope with the humidity which is even more present in my microclimate than most. The maypop may or may not freeze to death. This will be their first winter. But the flowers make for a great ornamental and I’ve always enjoyed the flavor of passionfruit so it seems like a risk worth running. I’m a bit obsessed with adding fruiting plants and herbs to my yard.

Now that I’ve embraced my obsession I notice other fruit trees in peoples yards while out driving in my area so I plan to reach out and see what cultivars they are growing, what has worked, and what has not for them.

@scottfsmith I believe that you are correct with the quince rust. My mind automatically went to CAR given that I’ve never noted quince rust on trees in my area but the CAR gals are notable every year. But given the symptom and the tree that was most affected I would put my money on quince. Thankfully both seem to follow a similar pattern and are controllable with immunox.

I’m glad you don’t think I’m without hope on the tree fruit soil. I’ve done a year or two with synthetic fertilizer but that is just junk food which won’t address the root of the issue in the long run. I can build leaf compost over the winter yearly with what others are discarding which seems like a better long term solution and hopefully will make for healthier trees and fruit. This year will be the start of my soil amending venture.

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This should help improve my top dress, chipped brush pile that was sitting for about 6 months. The initial chips were done by a tree service so large sized chips and good percentage of branches. I finally got around to shredding it into a more useable form.

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I live in suburbia. There are plenty of juniper/cedars within a stones trow of my apple patch. The first May after I put the first one in I learned what is cedar apple rust. Now I too use Immunox. It keep the likes of Ashmeads Kernal and Goldrush foliated. Enterprise one the other hand appears to admit not the existence of CAR (nor of scab nor of Marssonina). The other handful of varieties I have seem to be in the middle. In this last late spring, early summer I sprayed 3 times about 3 weeks apart. That quite kept the rust down. Next spring I will try to see if I can get away with 2 sprays. If that works I may try to back down to 1 but I don’t really expect to be so lucky. Oh, and if it any use to you, I live in Hunterdon. High clay soil, pH~ 6.5.

I had an enterprise in for a bit. The reviews of it were lackluster but the tree itself is supposed to be damn near bulletproof so my plan was to use it as the base for later grafts. Sadly it turns out that if the bullets are deer shaped it doesn’t hold up as well. It was mauled a few times and never truly recovered. Then one winter it went to sleep and never woke up. I still think my plan for it to be a good grafting base was sound though so I may try again if I can find a good spot for it.
I need to get my spray schedule down. Given the pressures in my area and the poor soil I don’t really have a choice. My test came back as “Loamy Sand” with a 4.87(!) pH. That was this past spring but my amendment plan wasn’t viable then. This year I’ll see what strides I can make then have a full test done again the following spring. Thankfully pH can easily be tested on your own so I’ll be testing that a few times in succession. The recommended mediation is 117lbs of limestone for the .15 acres that I’ll be treating, then a test 6 months later another 117lbs if needed.
I’m also low on nitrogen. Unfortunately the application of synthetic nitrogen can exacerbate the acidity so I need to avoid it. That is why I think I’ll lean into foliar sprays to help a bit until the soil health is improved. All of this should have been handled earlier but there is no use in worrying over what is already done.

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Hello Neighbors! I am considering adding 2 apricot trees (Harglow and Harcot) to the 2 I’ve had for the last 5 years: the ones I have bloom profusely but too early, so no fruit set at all. Has anyone had any luck with the Hardlow and Harcot in 6B/7A Mid-Atlantic? I am running out of room in my overplanted yard, and would rather graft some apricot on the existing trees, but not sure if I can find the scions of those 2 varieties. Does anyone have these late-blooming 'cots?

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Hi,
You may want to read through Scott’s stone fruit thread, which is a fabulous resource.

He lives in the Baltimore area, so not that far from you. He has notes on Harglow.

I’m in Arlington, VA and have Tomcot growing here and Ilona. Scott mentions Tomcot as being a good producer even with a late frost, so that might be worth trying. I’d be happy to send you scion wood when I prune in February.

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Appreciate your reply and thank you for sending the reference list, lots of great info!

I’d love some Tomcot scionwood. I’ll be glad to send you scoonwood of my quince, apples, persimmons, if you are looking for any of these.

Take care,

Marina

Have you had any problems with quince?

Hi Robert, I have 2 different quince trees, they are gorgeous in bloom, and set fruit well. They are susceptible to fire blight and other diseases, and should be sprayed. I haven’t sprayed my trees at all, but get several (like 7-8) quinces off one tree (the other is still young, should start producing this coming summer). The quinces are wonderful in Turkey stuffing.
I always wish I took time to spray so the fruit wouldn’t be deformed by insects.

Sounds good. I’ll send you a PM about it.

Watch out for quince rust, I got that on my unsprayed quince and that was the last straw, I took them out. It completely ruins the fruits. Fireblight was also horrible and the quince helped infect the apples.

I am now growing some firelight resistant ones and spraying for rust so am back in the quince business.

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What’s the consensus on what variety of pear would make for a good foundation tree for later grafts in our area? I’ve avoided them so far due to the fire blight risk but I’ve always enjoyed a good dessert pear and now my daughter has taken to them as well so it’s time to put one in the ground.
I’ve never tried an Asian pear so I’m looking at European first.

I’d probably put in a Seckel for that … it is partly self-fertile so you will get some pears before the other varieties added kick in. If Seckel is too small you could try Honeysweet, it is a Seckel-type but bigger (but not quite as tasty). I have not fruited it yet myself.

I would stick to later-ripening pears, the earlier ones are much more prone to rotting in the August heat. One good marker for that is to make sure they ripen after Bartlett; many pears have ripening relative to Bartlett listed.

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Anyone in the area have any luck with artichoke?

I have – I grow Green Globe, which is probably pretty standard. For me it has tolerated our heavier soil. I planted a new patch last year towards the end of the summer and our hard frost knocked them all out. I think they will come back (as my other patch has before) but I will likely protect them better next winter.

How long have you been growing them? Any fruit? Think you are the closest I’ve seen to me. I’m a few miles west of you.

Been growing them for 3 seasons, I did get a couple of artichoke heads last summer that were of decent size. I didn’t even baby the plants at all, I left them alone for the most part.

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I thought I would share this one that I posted on Auburns Hazelnut thread. It will eventually get you to a Rutgers-based newsletter on hazelnuts in general that has a lot of information on growing them in regions with winter’s like ours.

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Hi Scott, what quince varieties do you grow and what are the best resistant varieties of apples that might work in our mid-Atlantic fire light and apple rust region?

Have you had any luck with pomegranates? Mine bloomed nicely but the wind blew the flowers off. I did get 2 poms the previous year😊

I don’t think any quince is resistant to the rust, but I now spray for it so have no problem there.

I had severe fireblight problems on quince so ripped all of them out. A few years later I added some potentially fireblight resistant seedlings from the USDA and at least one of them is producing nice fruits now so I am back in the quince business!

Poms have never reliably fruited, some thing or other does them in every year… I am about to rip them out too.

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