@DennisD i read from a few university sources that Stanley is one of the most black knot-susceptible. Did you notice this with your Stanley?
So far Tubig I have not had it here, maybe I’m just lucky but we do have aphids pretty badly each spring, so I have to deal with them very often. The maladies I deal with, most are apple fly maggot, peach leaf curl, aphids, and occasionally shothole disease. If I am very careful with my watering I can usually avoid shothole, when I had it badly I discovered it was because I was wetting the foliage, once I avoided that, have not had many episodes. Stanley and Empress are both pretty disease free. The only thing is that Empress tends to have mold on fruit that quickly spreads to other fruit, so I need to watch carefully and thin them as they either begin to mold or ripen. The fruit hangs in clusters so thinning is the best remedy for mold prevention.
Dennis
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@DennisD do you have photos of your green gage fruits? I’ve seen some photos of round and oblong ones and wondering what the differences are flavor- and texturewise if any.
Hi Tubig
So far only some volunteer green gages are fruiting. In a year or so my Rosy gage grafts should produce. These pics are from trees that came up and grew as volunteers presumably from seed. Possibly the sweetest plum I have.
Dennis
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Those are probably St Julian rootstock plums. Nice and sweet.
More than surprised to see an apricot here. Everywhere I read people say stay away from Apricot lol.
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Anyone grown early season honeyberries in the northwest? Late season varieties are recommended for around here to avoid frost at bloom time, but I’ve read blooms are hardy to 20 degrees, which is very rare after February in the Willamette Valley. So far I just have a couple of Maxine Thompson varieties planted, but would love to have fruit in May around here. Are there fungal issues that are caused on the fruit in a wet spring climate?
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I’m near Seattle and have two Japanese type haskap,from Maxine,at an event in Oregon,several years ago.The only problem they had was Aphids.
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Curious if anyone has successfully grown Golden Nectar plums in our region. Raintrees website says this variety needs more summer heat.
Did you keep a copy of the non-propagation agreement and/or do you know the number designation of the ones you got?
The haskaps?These came from Maxine Thompson,when she had a card table set up at an All About Fruit Show in Canby.There was a small bowl of preserves and some wafers.When trying it,that’s what sold me.I had her pick me out two quart size pots,at $10 each and that was it.Nothing was signed,but a guy accompanying her,talked about them easily being propagated.
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Even some of the best orchardists I know say growing peaches, apricots and nectarines are tough in the PNWet. E OR, CA or E WA , IDaho are much easier. Some try for it anyway.
JohN S
PDX OR
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Hi Johann,
Many of my natives were here when I built the house around 1993, they all have similar growth habit to St Julian 10’-14’ feet height. They only started fruiting about 5-6 years ago. I think they may have started from seeds thrown out by neighbors. They spread by suckers, and I use them as rootstock to add other varieties.
Dennis
Kent, wa
Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm, outside of Woodburn, Oregon, is reporting that plant development and projected bloom time this year is a month behind average.
My quince tree looks to be a good 3 weeks behind, no hint of flower buds. In an early year, there would be quince flowers open already.
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I’m glad it’s not just me. Everything feels late this year and I keep feeling self conscious when customers come into the nursery cause so many of the plants are still asleep and not looking like “spring” yet. lol Currently here the cherry plums and early Asian plum are in full bloom, my peach is just starting and the apples are just barely starting to bud swell. My apricot still seems a ways off too, but this is it’s first year to bloom so I have no idea when it will bloom in a more typical year.
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Let’s remember this (please remind me) when it comes to ripening times this year.
I’ve noticed that my Japanese plums and pluots are well behind last year, which was a terrible year for tree fruit overall at my place.
Correction: Wooden Show Tulip Farm reported the slowest tulip development in the 40 years it has been in existence. Since this is more than the 30 years commonly used to establish climate trends, it is significant.
Postal Service Representatives were there recently for an official new tulip stamp series issue, and only 5% of the tulips were in bloom.
I’m hoping USPS is not designing a quince stamp.
Rhubarb, on the other extreme, is growing apace.
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My rhubarb is behind too.
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Anyone starting outdoor plum grafts yet? I am hoping for temps up in the 60’s but it seems a week or so away!
Dennis
Kent, wa
I have done grafts on Euro, Japanese and hybrid plums starting a few weeks back when the weather was much nicer, (in the 50 degree range). No buds have broken yet, but grafts on my Red heart and Shiro seem to be swelling and I’m hopeful that they are going to be successful.
I grafted plum/plumcot to Peach, Apricot, and Euro suckers (indoors) that have all been successful. I just moved them outdoors a couple of days ago as they were well on their way already.
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