Pacific Northwest Fruit & Nut Growers

“jupiter” grape

this is my first year getting a few table grape varieties after planting 2-3 years ago. I don’t have a full list but at least “everest” which is a newer variety, a large concord-type seedless

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craig’s crimson (zaiger) self fertile sweet cherry. on newroot-1 which is super dwarfed, it’s still about four feet tall at three years in the ground. it overset this year and the cherries are small. I think fully ripe in another week

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has anyone gotten a jujube to fruit in a container in a greenhouse? I have one in the ground but it is just now coming out of dormancy, usually flowers in sept or oct and then winter shows up.

“beauty” japanese plum in my side yard that I forgot to thin till today. this variety has been the most reliable for me for three years now, it’s not my favorite taste, but reliability counts for a lot

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I say this every time, Beauty makes great jam. Enough that I grafted it a couple of years ago at my new place and now its fruiting for the first time, heavily. Yes, I agree, its a super reliable and heavy setter. Fortunately mine is still almost all reachable by hand and I’ve thinned off 80% or so and will probably keep thinning.

Not worth eating fresh, although my mom’s friends love them.

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kiwi berries! this is my first time with fruit set, 5th year in the ground. I think this is “anna” variety or could be “ken’s red” those are the two I have plus a male, they’re all mixed up now

image

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Yes, I also had my best fruit set on hardy kiwi ever. I pruned them last year. I guess it was a good thing to do.
John S
PDX OR

I also have by far my biggest number of flowers like that on my Ken’s Red. No male in bloom. In past years it would have 10 or 20 flowers and set 3 or 4 fruit, so it must be at least partially self-fruitful in spite of what the listings say.

If even 10% of the fruit mature I’ll be excited. But I also won’t be surprised if they eventually shrivel and drop off since they weren’t pollinated.

I haven’t been checking in lately so not sure this is the right place to post.

Before the pandemic I had ambitions to digitize the Pome News newsletters from the Home Orchard Society. Then the pandemic came, I developed other health problems, and my scanner died too.

I have a box of Pome News dating from mid 90s to the final years. I doubt I will ever get around to digitizing them and I don’t know if anyone would be interested anyway.

Now I’m downsizing and need to prioritize what I keep. Plus they don’t help anyone just sitting here in a box, unread.

If anyone local wants these, I’d be happy to give them to you. I think they are a treasure trove of experience and fruit growing history. You will have to come get them. I am in Battle Ground, 30min from downtown Vancouver.

If there is any sort of archive for this sort of thing, that would also be ideal.


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It’s great to hear from you. I don’t have insightful advice, but it would be cool if somebody chose to pick this up and made them available.

If somebody did, we may still be able to host them on the lingering HOS forum.

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@z0r thank you so much for your information Michael. It’s saved me a lot of time. I will decide to get Vanessa and Venus. I already ordered Hope and Joy hopefully they are Okay.
@murky base on information, Einset seems poor setting?

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I don’t remember, but Einset is delicious, if you like candy. I’d rather have 1 bunch of Einset than 10 Reliance.

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Bear with me:
I would make that offer on HOS forum. More local people.
John S
PDX OR

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finally a good crop on my “lapins” self fertile late season sweet cherry, I think planted in 2021

I was late starting spinosad this year, I only got two sprays in before today, but that was enough for maybe 90% good cherries. the wormy ones are pretty easy to sort out (you can see the stings on the bottom, and they’re soft). if I get a crop like this next year I’ll do more sprays

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@cdamarjian hi Christine. So what grapes in your yard the best performance? Your Faith grape looks very good.
@z0r All the grape in your list staged not quite ready yet that’s mean they’re not ok or won’t ripe well in Western Washington weather?

I can tell easily that my Frost Peach is suffering from PLC, so I know enough to plan for better treatment this fall and next spring, but the most puzzling issue I have is to analyze what is affecting certain varieties of plums. This morning I pulled curled leaves to see if under a magnifying glass I could see aphids. None to be seen!
Picture of Stanley plum limb


Just below the Stanley tree I have grafts of Ozark Premiene that looks decimated, yet no aphids to be seen!

What could these infections be if not aphids? Is it possible the aphids cause the curls and then depart? Every new leaf tip is curling similar to PLC.
Dennis
Kent, Wa

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Nice pic, looks like it works, what treatment should you have used, at what stage should spinosad be applied? I have some sour cherries I may need to treat next spring.
Dennis
Kent, wa

I think there’s some art/experience needed beyond what the guides give that I don’t have

here’s the commerical guide local to me - https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/em-8329-2023-willamette-valley-pest-management-guide-cherries

and for home growers (not local to me but the closest they have) - https://extension.oregonstate.edu/educational-document/pest-management-schedule-backyard-cherry-trees-eastern-oregon

I recall there was a special label note allowing 6 (?) spinosad sprays/year but I no longer see that in the guide, I see only 3/year now. you’d spray every 1-2 weeks starting when the first flies show up (spotted wing fruit fly can target cherries starting when they first turn straw colored, western cherry fruit fly starts later), hoping to cover them from first susceptibility until harvest. if you were really serious you’d maybe add a 2nd chemical to get past the 3/year limit, because you can’t cover late season cherries from “straw color” to harvest with 3 sprays, that’s too much time

I guess with 3/year max I only missed one spray which would have been the first one, mid may this year. the two I did were timed well to line up with the last few weeks before harvest

“delegate” which is synthetic spinosad does allow 4/year still in the chart

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in that list where I went to broadacres nursery - they open for 4-5 weekends every year and I only went on the 2nd weekend, only the early-mid grapes were at their peak then

if you’re in the puget sound area then your annual heat units will be too few to ripen later season grapes, you have a lot fewer hours than broadacres (2000+ vs. 1600 for puget sound). you’ll want to look at guides like this and probably stick to varieties needing ~1600 hours or fewer -

WSU EB0775 - GROWING GRAPES FOR WINE AND TABLE IN THE PUGET SOUND REGION http://content.libraries.wsu.edu/utils/getfile/collection/ext/id/21129

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Vincent, I’m about 100 mi north of you with fewer heat units. Even so, Faith and Joy fruited for me by Oct 4th last year and look like they’ll be fruiting this year, even with a winter low of 7F.

As far as taste, both were mild and sweet. I preferred Faith which had a bit more crunch compared to Joy.

Another grape I grow is seeded Agria, which is a very early wine grape. I steam can the Agria, pour into hot bottles, and put on the shelf for 3 months. The initial strong taste mellows into a sweet Welch’s grape juice flavor.

@z0r 's suggestions of visiting Broadacre’s Nursery on their first grape weekend sounds like a perfect way to sample early grapes.

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