Pawpaws in 2026!

For sure, I have some pruning videos in the works!

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Still no sign…but little leaves coming up below the graft on the rootstock…fffff

anyone tested summer pruning while theres still time for growth and hardening off?

In a way…big tree limb fell in my patch the other day. Im sure you could, it might help with cultivars that have too much growth. I think for most people winter is the best time.

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If its any consolation I havent had a ton of luck grafting potted rootstock. To me its a waste of time unless you need to have those trees in a pot for some other reason.

Go head and get your rootstock established then graft it.

How old would you guess this tree is?

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That’s a 15 y/o tree here. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Kidding aside….looks like a few years old if I’m judging my 1st year and 2nd year wood right.

Have you had your soil tested? Because I need to get my numbers in line with what you have there.

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Hahaha I probably should test it. I planted seed there June of 2025, so just over a year old(second growing season). I really used to take my climate and soil for granted…then I started planting in poor soil other places…not nearly as good of growth.

I think it helps that I get so much heat and humidity too. Planted about 20 seeds there and I have two giants and several late bloomers popping up now.

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Sad because I had a ton of luck last year with grafted when @weatherandtrees did it later in the cycle. All my pears look fine, so idk if I did something wrong or if the unions just baked in the sun when I put them straight out in direct sun during the heat wave (Wasn’t thinking about heat on unions under black tape).

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Same. I’m happy with my KY Legend down here in Boston area, but up north in the poor fill soil I’ve been trying to add mulch and compost to, I have nothing that looks remotely close to that.

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Could I get some feedback on this one year old seedling? I germinated it in a container one year ago and then planted it out around 6 weeks later when the root made it to the bottom. The one above it has the same conditions as far as I know. I did mix a little compost in the hole when I planted them. The planting holes sunk a little over time, but I’ve kept an eye on them and made sure the mulch hasn’t piled up against their trunks.

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One of my last 2 quiet grafts is just starting to break bud now…almost 2 months later.

I still wouldn’t give up on them yet…especially if the buds still look healthy.

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Ground looks a little dry, but thats not bad for that age. I have some trees in bad soil that are only knee high at 4 years old

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What about the brown and yellow leaves? Sunburn? Or something soil related? We’ve had a fairly wet summer so far. If it looks dry it’s because I raked some of the mulch away to let it dry out a bit. I was concerned about it being too wet.

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So they were planted there last year?

It does look a little sun burnt. Did you fertilize with anything?

It could just be genetics too. Those last couple of leaves look healthy. I wouldn’t sweat it too much. It looks like it may be done for the season as well based on that terminal bud.

I have some seedlings put on 3ft in a couple years and some that can’t get past 2” in 3 years…all with the same soil mix.

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Yes, planted in the ground last year.

I gave them extremely meager servings of organic 5-5-5 pellets this spring.

I’ll go ahead and put up a shade cloth to make sure it gets through the rest of summer.

Thanks for the help!

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Not going to toss them or anything…just anxiously awaiting. Still working on things I can’t control. Maybe this is a good therapy for that, if I can learn to take the lesson.

Worst case the rootstock definitely still alive so I should be able to try again.

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I’d say 4-5 years from a strong transplant. Shoots are very strong and growing more than 1 ft per year. Looks good!

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Like @treefrogtim I have also found you really have to have good growth and roots with pawpaw before you can graft them with good success rates. I’ve got a bunch that are in pots and small and grafted, but they were also in the pot for a year before I grafted them. The pots are larger size 1-5 gallon. I also have had more luck when I don’t totally strip the rootstock of leaves with pawpaw.

Also, I don’t know if you’re comparing grafting pears to grafting pawpaw, but pears are so much easier to graft. I have near 100% takes on apple and pear, 75+% on peach and apricot, and no where near that on pawpaws. This year, I had only 40% of my grafts to potted pawpaw take while 75% of the ones in ground took.

To me, pawpaw are much harder to graft and maybe I don’t have the timing right yet. I started grafting in early April this year and a bunch of them had started to get some tiny green leaves. I’m wondering now if that was too early - it took them a very long time to leaf out.

Now, I’m planning on budding in early sept with green budwood for the rootstock with the failed grafts.

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Lots of good points. I think of it like water flow, its easier to get more flow from a larger pipe. Its incredible to watch a field graft really take off.

Take rates are near 100% when the conditions are right….the trick is having the right conditions. Warm enough to push growth and heal, but not so hot that buds fry before healing. Also having good healthy buds, and rootstock ready to grow. 75-85 daytime 50+ at night.

@Blake have you ever had a direct seeded tree take off like that? Second growing season Prima seed, direct sown. I have never seen growth like this.

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