The leaf cupping has never been a concern for me usually is on young trees.
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Thanks so much. It is a young tree.
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Even older persimmon trees will have curled leaves during hot summer days. It’s a normal way for the trees to reduce the surface area of their broad leaves to the sun. It is most pronounced in younger leaves, and they will flatten out when it cools down again. The thing to look out for is when the leaves are also drooping - that’s when the tree needs watering. We’ve had a severe drought this summer, and I’ve had to water some of my established persimmon trees for the first time.
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Ok.” Prairie Star, Elmo, Claypool A-118, and Early Jewel are the same,” says the A.I. I think the A.I. is a liar!! I’m doing an invetory of my planted trees and my lists for next years purchases. I have Prairie Star and Early Jewel in the collection as well as A-2, A-33, Weber Blue, Weber, Brittains Blue, Prairie Sun, Prairie Gem, Prairie Star. I don’t want to make the mistake I made by buying 3 “chocolate” persimmons .I thought they were different because they had different names. I think Elmo is NOT Prairie Star. Am I wrong?
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Elmo is A-118
Prairie Star Is Early Jewel, H-118
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I’ve tried both early jewel and elmo and the elmo had larger fruit, more bright color, and firmer texture.
Congratulations! When you say your trees are in year four, do you count from the season you grafted them, or from the following season when they were planted out in the ground?
How about the flavor? Was one more are less complex or sweet? It seems I have at least one duplicate. I got a Prairie Star from One Green. The Early Jewel I got from an east coast vendor. Way bigger than what I got from One Green, too My Ruby persimmon has low vigor. Prok is vigorous ans produces the biggest American I have. I am hoping Korp does well.
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I don’t know how I’d describe the flavor differences, but I liked elmo better, mostly because the texture was very smooth and the stringy pieces in the flesh were unnoticeable.
@MFJFIGS ..
My rootstock trees are wild DV… that just pop up and grow all over here.
I select a good one in the spring and put woodchips around it.. it may be 1 foot tall when I choose it.. by the end of first growing season they are usually 4 5 6 ft tall.
The next spring… I graft a named variety to it… that is year 1.
I get some incredible growth from these southern wild dv rootstocks. My Prok had leaves a foot long… My JT02 grew a central leader shoot 10 ft tall first season.
TNHunter
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@Auburn … they may just be getting lots of sun and displaying a little early color.
Last year my Barbaras blush.. especially the ones getting some sunshine.. got a reddish patch early on in the ripening process.
I guess that is why they were named that.
Your Jiros look great.
TNHunter
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Hi Perkolator,
Has your Fuyu produced fruit for you yet?
Dennis
Kent, Wa
Update: my transplanted Lehman’s Delight that never woke up in spring just woke up last week. Its pushing some 3” sprouts now. That’s almost 3 months after everyone else woke up. I guess the lesson is if you have one that’s still scratching green, be patient.
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That 10ft was new growth from the graft? That is impressive. You’re planting in full sun too right?
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From the bud on the scion to the tip of the new central leader 10 ft..
Prok leaves a foot long.
That JT02/Mikkusu is holding first fruit to ripen this year.
It is much shorter and wider now. I got a lot of nice scionwood from that tall first year growth.
TNHunter
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What in the blue blazes are you putting on that thing? You need to clone that rootstock ASAP or at least sell me a bag of that dirt 
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@CarolinaZone .. my JT02 is right beside my compost pile.
TNHunter
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Black green leaves - yep
Huge leaves - yep
Very rapid growth - yep
Grafted on a huge root system - yep
Beside the compost pile - yep
Sounds to me like you could grow a 60 foot tall tree in less than 10 years.
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Trying to protect my Giboshi from SKDS, should I avoid planting any DV near Giboshi, for fear insects could transfer SKDS from DV to DK?