Pruning/pinching new growth on apples/pears/peaches/plums

[rossn]

With young apple/pear/peach/plum trees that come of an age where they start to put out a lot of growth, do you remove/pinch/rub-off young vertical and shaded growth as it emerges - or do you wait for summer pruning?

I have a number of trees in their 3rd leaf who are putting out a lot of growth, and I’m still not entirely clear on understanding spur/fruitwood formation, and if all vertical growth (top or bottom) should be removed, or if some will form spurs / fruitwood that should be kept.

On plums, I’m especially unclear if all side growth should be kept on primary scaffolds, for possible fruit spurs, or if they should be removed and only allowed on secondary or further scaffolds (open center).

[YumYumTrees]

On all trees, I pinch off new growth where I do not want it, but wait for rain free days to do so.

Plum and peach ( not entirely sure about apples / pears)

I keep the side growth coming off of the scaffolds; the fruit spurs will eventually form on it. While the vertical growth will form spurs eventually, I remove it to keep an open center.

I cut the new growth 1/3-2/3 back (leave good amount of buds for future development) (depending how much scion wood I want next spring) mid/late summer to help encourage fruit spur development. Pruning to should be above the bud facing direction you want the branch to continue. (if doing late pruning cut I do the cut a couple buds above, then rub the new growth off the undesired buds in spring, and re prune closer to desired bud after it has begone growing and when weather will be rain free)

(I aim to keep my trees roughly 6-7 ft tall w/ scaffold starting 2-3 ft above ground)

[Masbustelo]

I have apple and Pear on espalier, and pretty much pinch off new growth as it appears. I suspect it is good for some varieties and others may not fruit this way. Makes beautifull bonsai type foliage.

[alan]

Pruning for me is a continuous process in my own orchard and nursery, especially during the growing season. Early removal of vertical shoots coming off of peach branches is very useful when training my nursery trees to help my long trunked trees grow a more spreading shape.

When I’m thinning fruit in May I’m also removing uprights from scaffolds because they are so easy to rub off and this assures more light getting where I want it. This rubbing is done mostly with apples and pears. For establishing J. plums, I head back branches of nursery trees to help get better secondary branch structure and keep them from being excessively lanky. Also to reduce shading that inspires black knot.

When I’m thinning peaches and other stone fruit of vigorous trees I’m also doing a lot of pruning to keep only the growth I want and light near the developing fruit.

By the time late summer comes most of the water sprouts or most vigorous uprights in my orchard are only there to be graft wood the following year.

[rossn]

Hi all - thanks so much for this information.

It sounds to me like, in general, pretty much always pinch/rub off vertical shoots/water sprouts early (unless desired for grafting) off all species is a good plan (versus trying to generate fruiting spurs or stubs here). Wanted to make sure I wasn’t causing a fruiting issue!

@YumYumTrees - was aware of the shoot reductions with peaches, but finding more detailed info about pruning plums (I have euro and hybrids) has been hard to come by. I wasn’t aware of heading back on plums. Do you do that just on side shoots, or primary/secondary scaffolds as well?

Also it sounds like pretty much leaving all side shoots is a good plan, even if they are dense. I wasn’t sure if any side shoots should be kept shorter, but it sounds like let them grow to length and do the summer pruning. For side shoots headed slightly upwards (say up to a 45 degree rise), do you ever do any training/tying/weighting on these (probably too many to manage), or do you just let fruit weight and pruning to a bud in the right direction take care of that?

@Masbustelo - I do want to try to espalier a few apples and pears. In that form, do you keep any side shoots, else how do you renew the wood?

@Alan - Yes, based on comments on GF, I’m trying to move to more of continuous pruning approach, and I’d guess where you get limited site visits, that’s definitely how it has to be done. FB pressure is high here, though luckily black knot isn’t prevalent. Based on weather, it’s probably kicking in this week. Given FB temps here, and that I have one apple that didn’t get water sprouts rubbed, is there any sense in putting some grafting wax or compound over any wounds?

As to your comment on J. Plums (I have E & hybrid plums) and your mention of secondary branching, are you referring to secondary scaffolds (i.e. heading back the primary scaffolds when young for multiple years), or by secondary, do you mean additional branching off the side shoots?

For side shoots, on apples/pears/peaches/plums (I have E & J pears), what the closest you typically like to see side shoots forming?

[alan]

I’ve never heard the term secondary scaffolds- I think of them more as temporary. I think a lot about developing branch structure that contains ample secondary and tertiary wood where fruit is born. Some species and varieties need to be encouraged by the trainer to make this happen and fill up space with as little structural wood as possible to harvest and put energy to best use.

[rossn]

Believe it or not, there are references out there to secondary scaffolds after the first ‘split’ following the connection at the trunk, but maybe the better term is secondary wood or branches and I’ll try to use that.

It sounds like leave as much secondary/tertiary wood that is not vertical, as possible, while still allowing light to the leaves around fruiting buds/spurs. I’ll experiment with some cuts during fireblight season with grafting wax or compound to see if it can reduce risk of FB infection. I’m guessing it won’t impede healing.

Thanks, Alan, and have a great weekend!

[YumYumTrees]

I prune back all the new growth on plums (not fruit spurs / dont confuse fruit spur); primary scaffold and side branches, unless it is very small and the last bud is facing in the desired direction. If the growth is very small I wait till spring and rub or prune off the bud above the but with the desired direction. Also prune the side branches to avoid crossing each other.

(In aiming for short trees, I only keep about 6-10 inches of new primary scaffold each year. (Final pruning in early spring) (Once at desired height Ill just be doing maintenance)

I have a few plums that I did not prune like this, prior to learning about proper pruning, and they have long floppy scaffolds where a lot of the fruit spurs are at the upper part of the tree, and less side branching that Id like.

The trees that I have been pruning back each year have fruit spurs that starts lower, earlier, and sturdier scaffold.

[rossn]

Thanks, YYT - this has been especially helpful. For some reason I haven’t found any particularly good references on pruning plums. Noted on heading back the scaffolds… I’ll have to work that more. I have a few trees who for scaffold pitch reasons got pruned back pretty aggressively, and they are definitely more stout than the ones that weren’t. I’ll take this to heart.

I take it when you are pruning back (1/3-2/3) all growth, you’re doing it in the dormant state. Is there any way to know with early spring growth if the growth will generate a limb vs a spur? That may be a moot point for vertical growth, since it can/should be removed early. But for under growth, I suppose I would not want to remove spurs. Any idea if pruning back a newly forming limb, if a spur may form?

Because my Superior fruited this year, I can get a sense of the pointy spurs (at least on hybrids)… do E Plum spurs resemble the same?

Here are two E plums… based on this, it seems like I might not have enough growth on the lower main scaffolds, although above those hopefully the side shoots are looking OK. Tree pictures are always tough. (and yes, planning on getting the grass around the tree out… it’s gotten away from me this spring)

[YumYumTrees]

When I prune back 1/3-2/3 of the new growth, I do so during mid/late summer while its still some time left in the growing season to stimulate the formation of fruiting spurs and slow growth ( I want to keep them small). Pruning in dormant season will result in greater overall growth in spring.

Yes the spurs are also pointy on European plum.

I think that your plums in the photos look good. The side limbs will continue to grow larger.

Maybe try to train the side branches at the ends to grow spread wider ( with a small notched stick to spread them, or string pulled to ground) (may need to wait till they are a little less green)

The verticals are truely vertical, growing straight up from the top center. Other growth that is growing up from side can be trained down.

[rossn]

Ok, all that is good to know. Seems like summer pruning is really where it is at.

While you were typing at me about spreading those branches, I was off trying to figure out a new system for doing that. When these plums start shooting out spurs, there are a ton of them. I’ve used the staked string with good success, and sometimes, when multiple angles are needing adjustment, some EMT strategically pounded in the ground with a stretchy surveyors tape working well to hold the limb in-place; however, making a lot of adjustments on green growth is time consuming and constantly requiring modification. Then there are the spreaders… Alan had recommended some good ones that I picked up, but they will shred the new growth, and of course, need something to push against.

So, what I decided I needed was an easily adjustable (both location and weight) system that is quick to apply. Here’s what I came up with in the last hour and a half. Took me maybe 20 mins with scrap wire to make 50 of them. I already had a box of large washers sitting around. Took me about 10 minutes to make 25 adjustments on the green wood of the tree.

Now, we also got some gusts of wind (maybe 15-20mph) just after I put them on, and one slid ‘up’ the side branch where it’s weaker, and it got bent downwards. So, some testing is needed, along with conservative placement and weight. What I’ve noticed about adjusting fresh/green growth is that may only take a day or five to make the adjustment, whereas once it’s stiffened up, it’s a much longer process.

Now, the stuff that I still haven’t figured out are the new growth that will be the scaffold after it splits. They turn all limber and curly at the end. I think the only thing that works there is maybe the EMT or a piece of 10 gauge wire lashed to the lower (rigid) limb and new growth and bent into place.

Now, the superior plum, shown below, I might need to head back or do something to get the leaf clusters to form more of a side branch.

[SummitOrchard]

Not sure if this is the right thread. Would your advice be to just cut this water sprout off during spring pruning? Somehow I missed this during the growing season and it took over the tree. Or, would it be better to cut it at about 4-5 inches to keep as a scaffold? Would that branch then try to take over again next year?

[marknmt]

I would take it out. If you cut so that the stub is a little fat on the underside you’re likely to get a new branch there next year that has a better branch angle. But you have a nice tier of scaffold branches and plenty of options. Just don’t let that branch continue to dominate.

[SummitOrchard]

Some others have suggested using a spacer to get it out to a 45 degree angle, and trim it back to 12-15inches and use it as a scaffold. My thoughts were that it would still be a limb that is encouraged to grow faster than the rest of the tree.

[marknmt]

I think it has gotten to the point that it will be hard to bend it down. Plus, you don’t really need it. The rest of the tree has more than enough scaffolds forming for you to work with.

I don’t know what your rootstock is and I don’t know if my advice would pertain to all of them, so that might make a difference. But whatever you do don’t let that branch remain as it is. Trees with competing leaders generally don’t do as well and are harder to manage.

[SummitOrchard]

I put a spreader in it now, I think I might cut it back to about 5 inches above an outward bud and then just keep a close eye on how the tree is growing. I plan on attempting to graft a Korean Giant Scion to that tree this spring. Not sure if a modified cleft graft in that area would be a good spot or not.

[Oregon_Fruit_Grow]

@YumYumTrees

(In aiming for short trees, I only keep about 6-10 inches of new primary scaffold each year. (Final pruning in early spring) (Once at desired height Ill just be doing maintenance)

I think your approach is good for managing plum trees. I have couple of questions and appreciate if you can post a few pictures of your trees (dormant picture if possible)

1. It looks like you don’t do any pruning during dormant season. But wait until the primary scaffolds to continue their growth until spring and then prune or mid summer (to initiate fruiting spurs)?

2. Do you apply this pruning method to both European and Asian plums, do you get sufficient active fruiting spurs on Asian plums since their spurs are not as long-lived compared to EU plums.