Questions not deserving of a whole thread


It won’t hurt the tree even if you cut all the way around at that distance or even way closer. They sometimes root prune fruit trees by running a deep chisel 12-18 inches deep about that far from the tree.


Good to know. I just started removing a bunch of dirt and keep hitting roots maybe nickel thickness…sometimes thicker…


Susu- Sounds like a deal to me, if you aren’t looking for a specific rootstock. Root bound fruit trees usually aren’t a big problem beyond being stunted for a while, and that is just a $6 risk. Pears often are sluggish when bare root transplanted and I even often lose big pear trees if I have to move them bare root (peaches, plums, apples, etc, no problem), so a tree flourishing in a container might give you a good head start. You might even be able to graft it as early as next spring. Buy it, plant it and see what happens.


I would’ve done it in a heart beat if it wasn’t for the diseases. Not sure if it’s a good idea since I might drag home stuff I don’t know how to deal with?


I didn’t read your question in its entirety- thank you for making me do that. If it is quince rust and you are in the humid region, I wouldn’t pay too much concern to that because it is a pretty universal pest but usually not all the damaging in my experience. I saw it at many sites this year with all of our rain, and expect it won’t be much a problem next year as it didn’t amount to much this wet one. If it is another disease you’ve already seen on your pears, I wouldn’t worry about it either. However, if growing shoots are shriveling, it may be from pear psyla, and I wouldn’t want to introduce that pest to my orchard if it isn’t there already. It showed up in my pear trees about 8 years after I started growing them and now requires at least 2 extra sprays a season.

Zestar under attack!!!!

These are so juicy, sweet, and tangy!!!


What zone are you in bob? Birds are starting to hit on my Zestar through baggies. The seeds are brown and they tasted really good but I. Think it is still a little early for mine.


Ohio 6A


I think it’s a great medium early apple also, my pick in its season. Very grower friendly-shapes well, bares young and reliably. Much easier than it’s sibling Honeycrisp here.


So debating about completely removing this extra LG peach branch which grew out from under the cover of my pergola on my 9 years old stone fruit combo tree. It’ll be tricky to pick the 4 or 5 peaches this year up there. It helps shade my deck but makes the tree quite lopsided.

So should I leave it, prune it or completely remove it? I know which course of action I’m leaning towards but interested to hear everyone’s advice and opinions.



I’m hoping someone can give me some insight on why my apple tree is dying or already dead.

I have a group of 7 interstem apples planted by the entry to my house. I planted them out last spring and one, a Kerr Crab apple on M111/Bud9 died after growing relatively well all summer. I had some other grafted apples in my nursery area, so I pulled the dead Kerr and planted a Chestnut crabapple on M111/M27 last fall after dormancy and it woke up and grew relatively well this spring, but now it too appears to be about dead.

The nearest apple is about 2 feet away (same rootstock/variety) I think it is fine, although not growing as vigorously as I’d like which I’m chalking up to the rootstock. So my questions is could there be a problem now in that spot (replant disease) or is it just random bad luck from fireblight or something else?

I’d really prefer to keep an apple in this spot and have a Kerr or a Monark on G696 I can try in that spot this Fall, but wondering if I should go to one of the pears I have on OHxF87 instead. Thoughts?

Here are some a picture of the full tree and a closeup of the foliage. It appears almost as if it is drying out from the bottom up, so I expect it is a root issue, but why in this location and 2 times when the other 6 so close by are fine?

The mulch was added about 3 weeks ago and is away form the trunk although maybe a little has washed down from watering.


save it and remove it during winter to share with others as scions


I have been able to try 4 varieties of Euro pears this year from my orchard- 3 for the first time. Also got 2 Asian Pears- 1 of them for first time. I know its unfair to generalize the whole pear species from such a tiny sample size, but the Asians are just so much better (TO ME…I know taste are subjective). Yet when I go to the grocery store they usually have 4-5 euro pears and 0 or 1 Asian pears. In my experience, the Asian pears are just as easy to grow, it not a little easier in fact. So what it leaves me wondering is why aren’t they more popular? Is it just that Americans are slow to accept new fruits? Is the industry trying to project Asian pears as a rare, expensive, and unique (as seen by the way the are often wrapped in individual foam netting? Or are they so new to US growers that there just aren’t enough commercial orchards to supply them in numbers comparable to Euros. Or is there some other reasons they aren’t more common that I’m not thinking of? Just curious. I sure do love these and feel like most other people would to!


I’m not sure why Asians aren’t more commonly sold. They would be easier in some ways. Like ripening on the tree. Many Euros need special ripening techniques to be at their best. They, Euros, are also hard to know when to pick. So don’t judge them too soon. I’ve had better E than A.

Another factor might be that most Asians don’t store well.


The taste and texture of Asian and Euro pears (not including hybrid) is quite different, more different than Japanes/ Asian and Euro plums.

A pear usually is juicy, crunchy and sweet.
E pear is soft, buttery, melting with sour and sweet mix.

I can see why someone who like A pears may not like E pears and vise versa.

American people probably are used to the taste and texute of E pears. They may expect some familiar taste and texture from A pear because of the name. Once the expectation is not met, they could easily do not like it for that reason.

I like them both. I know their differences and go with the flow.


I wish I could find a large pear with the texture, crunch, and juiciness of an Asian but the flavor of a good euro. I don’t really care for the meltong texture of euros but for me they tend tonjavr better flavors than Asians. A lot of Asian pears are just not very flavorful. I’ve not tried dripping honey, Misharasu, or Korean Giant. But I’m holding out hope they are the best. The best flavor I’ve had from am Asian pear is Chojuro. But their skin is tough and not very good. I don’t really like to peel fruit prior to eating.


Mam! You love sugar and your husband makes the best cookies! :cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie::cookie:


So the soil is fine under the mulch- not too wet? The bark looks healthy without any browning? working with hands through the soil, a bit are there fresh white roots being generated by the tree. Mulch hasn’t matted up in a way to reduce gas exchange?

At first glance, the tree looks to be drowning.


Do you tip back Latham red raspberries to force laterals for more fruit? First year growing raspberries and my canes are getting fairly tall 3-4’. I didnt get a trellis built for them yet as I wasnt sure what to expect for growth the 1st season. I tip my blackberries to force laterals and to control height … wasnt sure if raspberries were treated the same?


Can i compost arborvitae branches? Lots of green needles? Or i can just bonfire them when i have the chance.