Questions not deserving of a whole thread


#741

I bought these things. I am wondering how well they work, does anyone here have any experience to share?
IMG_20180416_093400219


#742

I personally would not use pure urea on my trees. I do use a higher dosage of a fertilizer on my established and also my newly planted trees. My neighbor used to use the pure urea on his lawn. he thought he made his lawn look better but did not put any of that in his orchard. Maybe others here have better experiences with using pure urea on their trees.


#743

i use it on my compost pile and diluted 1 qt. /gal. water around my trees right after i mulch them w/ green wood chips.


#744

Yes, I’ve done it a few times and get takes as good or better than I do on established trees.


#745

I’ve hung some codling moth traps (same brand as pictured) this season for monitoring purposes, but none have been captured thus far. It’s been a cool, wet spring for us, so their emergence has probably shifted a bit later.


#746

I don’t but Alan who manages orchards does all the time.


#747

Grafting the year a rootstock is planted works great with apple and pear. Peaches and other stone fruit have a low take rate after being transplanted.


#748

I use pure urea on my young peach trees to size them, and on a few old trees if they need a shot of vigor. I just got through putting about a bag out (50#) a few weeks ago on some young trees.


#749

General gardening question here.
I will start by saying this has been a terrible spring. With that, my veggies are taking forever to grow. For example, the days to maturity of the French Breakfast Radish is 26 days. I planted some on 3/18 and they are still only cotyledons, same with direct sown broccoli, peas, rabe, and kale. They look okay with no yellowing or bug bites or other deformities. All these plants are said to be tolerant of the cold so could it really be the bad weather slowing them down that much. Could it be a nutrition issue?
These plants are planted in different locations through the garden. I spread an inch of compost on the soil every year and the soil looks good


#750

It is the lack of heat units slowing growth . Having the same problem here . They can take the cold but need some warm temps to grow . Warm is relative for cool season crops . Say 40 at night and 60 daytime . My peas have survived mid 20’s just fine but daytime highs around 40 and not growing much .


#751

How much per small tree would you say you spread around it?


#752

@jerry63 is 100% correct. What you just described is very common and my own experience as well. I think when they talk about “cool weather crops” that to some degree they simple mean they can survive cooler weather/frost. In my own experience, few of the “cool weather” crops really EXCEL in cold weather (35-50 degrees). They just sort of hold their own until some warmer days occur (exactly as your radishes are doing now) . The same applied to seed germination. I’m glad your seeds at least came up. Lots of time if temps are in to 30’s and low 40’s, even cold weather crop seeds won’t germinate or take forever to do so. Now, all this being said, I’m a pretty big fan of a general purpose fertilize for most garden crops like your radishes. While some may disagree, I very rarely see any harm and usually see some benefit from sprinkling a little triple 10 or less triple 15 granules in and around radishes and most other veggies, and once it warms up I bet you’d see it benefit yours as well. But your big problem is, as Jerry said, just cold weather. It is normal. And btw- I concur that this spring is just insane. Here it was 72 degrees yesterday and they high today is predicted to be 52. What the heck!?!?


#753

That’s what I thought also guys, thanks. Just wanted to make sure I’m not crazy. Is the days to maturity a useless number, such as, is it 26 days under perfect conditions? If one was to plant a radish when conditions were perfect, it would be too hot by the time it matured.

At least I have sorrel. Sorrel don’t care!


#754

You actually pointed to one of the veggies that negates what I (and Jerry) just said about very cold weather (30’s and under) arrests the growth of even cold weather crops. Sorrel absolutely doesn’t seem affected, and there are others like that so we are just talking about “most” cold weather crops.

I’ll be interested to see what others say, but I really dislike the “days to maturity” that they put on seeds because I find them to be wildly inaccurate. I guess they have to put some numbers to give new gardeners some ball park idea of what to expect (there are some new growers who don’t know that radishes produce sooner than pumpkins, for example). But there are soooo many variables that effect days to maturity. Weather (as you are seeing), soil fertility, rain/moisture, whether fertilize is used, whether your plants are in full sun or not, etc etc. In perfect growing conditions vs terrible conditions, the same seeds planted in each location will have vastly different maturity dates. So in short I don’t think days to maturity are very useful AT ALL. A big part of my experience with all this comes from watermelons. My harvest times often vary a LOT from the DTM posted on the seed packets. But that is just me…others may love DTM estimates and think they are fairly accurate?


#755

I use three or four handfuls for a small tree. I try to throw it around the drip line mostly. If it’s uncoated urea, you have to either water it in, or put it down just before a good rain, otherwise it will volatilize in the air over several days. It takes about 1/2" of rain to water it in good.


#756

I gave my Apple tree slightly less than a tablespoon. I was worried about burning it.


#757

Susu,

A tablespoon is such a small amount, you probably wouldn’t notice any effect. Young established trees are very hard to burn from fertilizer.

They can burn easy if they are brand new and the soil hasn’t settled and fertilizer is placed next to the trunk. In that case, your very cautious attitude is well warranted, but I still might give them more fertilizer, just not close to the trunk.


#758

Anyone have suggestions on who might have a good selection of grape plants for sale at a reasonable price this late in the season? Looked at Isons but they wanted $20 for one plant shipped which is high to me.


#759

Try this http://inlanddesert.com they are mostly wine varieties I beleve.
I drive for UPS and deliver to/pick up from them, they are a first class act.


#760

Check out Indiana Berry, they have a pretty good selection of grapes, mostly table grapes, and a few wine varieties. All of them sell for $8 apiece. I’ve bought other fruit plants from them that have had good roots on them, but no grapes, so I can’t vouch as to their quality.

https://indianaberry.com/products/1/8/Plants/Grapes

Also, Stark Bros sells quite a few different varieties for $13 a plant.

https://www.starkbros.com/products/berry-plants/grape-vines