Yep. I often look at those size charts for all the semi dwarf rootstocks that show what % of standard they are, and like you said, there are a lot of differences. But I’ve had 2 standard apples (full size) and they both produced 1-3 apples in year 3 and several apples in year 4, so for my own experience it depends more on the variety than the rootstock in terms of years to fruit. My 5 year old standard apples are both already taller than I can pick without a ladder (I didn’t prune them to stay small because it would have been too much of a fight) so in the future I’m only doing semi dwarfs.
Along those lines pairing of some varieties on certain rootstocks greatly affects preciousness.
I believe if I put Alkmene on M 111, the tree would fruit a few years faster than putting Honey Crisp on M 111.
I have to apologize. I don’t have a Jonagold, I have a Jonafree from Stark bros. I had to look it up when you said triploid because I new it came in a disease free group of three trees that would pollinate each other.
Your tree looks great. How many apple do you hope to get? Once you did your “corrective pruning”, did you lose a few years of fruit production?
I keep finding insects bite mark on my fruits. I sprayed insecticide last week. I start to wonder is it the insecticide not potent any longer, Or these bite mark just more visible as the fruits grow bigger? These tiny black dot on tiny plum fruitlet, hard to figure out when this bite mark was put on
Are there holes on that bite marks. If they were, it could be leaf rollers or caterpillars. I saw many of my apricots had dips on the skins. I also saw several small black tent caterpillars feeding on them. The tent caterpillar damage is only skin deep, fortunately. Left rollers could bite a chuck out of fruitlets. More damage from them.
I used BT which seemed to work on leaf rollers but not as effective on tent caterpillars. I followed by Triazicide. This time, it really worked. Saw a lot of dead caterpillars after spraying.
No a whole, although on such small fruitlets, I couldn’t see any whole if there is. My area, I have never seen leaf roller or caterpillar on fruit tree. Triazicid is what I used a week ago.
I have more leaf rollers and tent caterpillars than I can count. Leaf rollers are good at hiding under rolled leaves. Hopefully, Triazicide will take care of whatever damage your fruitlets.
Are leaf rollers worms or little aphid-looking things? I have something curling the ends of my new little persimmon and my big paw paw’s leaves. It’s the new growth on the persimmon, so I want to do something about that. I don’t want to ‘nuke’ it if something less toxic will work.
Mine aren’t worms. They look like tiny leafhoppers or big aphids or something. They are hard to see well because unrolling the edges they hide in squishes them up a fair amount.
Aphids can make leaves curled, too. I usually see green aphids on my roses and plum leaves and black aphids on cherry leaves. You can squish them, spray them with water or soapy water.
Oh, good. Thank you. They did look like aphids. I’ll squish on the baby persimmon leaves and let the tall branches of the pawpaw fend for themselves, lol. Too high!
They are psyllids. They will damage the new growth. Treat them like aphids…spray with water or kill them with soapy water. They ate one of my grafts…
Ah! Thank you! They look like they are hurting the new growth when they’re on that for sure. Would insecticidal soap work if sprayed up high even though they are curled up in the leaves?
The persimmon is easy, but they are way up there on that pawpaw. If spinosad works on them, I could spray up high after the bees are in for the night.
Leaf rollers are also little green worms/ caterpillars that twist the leaf around them then eat their way out. I have tons of them until I spray. I have found they eat my leaves but leave my fruit alone!
Thank you! I think I’ll go with spinosad, then. It apparently works on psyllids and any little worm, so those two are covered. If it’s aphids on that pawpaw, it can shrug those off, so I’m good.
What is the size potential of Honeycrisp is if it is allowed to root by burying the graft union?
I’m tired of my runt on unknown semi-dwarf rootstock, probably m7 or mm106.
I think honey crisp is just a natural dwarf.
I have 5 on m111, they are the smallest trees on that rootstock of that age here.
Other varietys same age / rootstock much bigger.
Planing to put some on seedling soon.
They are very manageable.
I had some potatoe seedlings, some in a container and some mounded in the ground. Both sets flourished for quite awhile, but they rapidly became yellow and then died off. I did harvest about half a dozen small potatoes from one and they are presently curing. Any idea why they up and died? I’d like to try again next year.
The plants will die when they have finished growing the potatoes.