Questions not deserving of a whole thread


Yes, it is easy to miss posts. We were having a discussion on Osage Orange and I noticed that Susu’s post was two days old and I thought to myself, why shoot, everybody has overlooked her so I tried to help. Actually, I replied to her post twice.

Looking at my records, I use Immunox on my grapes about as much as I do Captan. Sometimes both together. Somehow I’ve got the impression that Captan was better for control of black rot. That may be an error on my part. Also, I must of read into Susu’s post that she had used Immunox previously without good results. Then I was looking at some documentation on grapes that indicated that mancozeb was much more recommended than Captan for very susceptible varieties or at critical stages of infection. I have never used mancozeb myself but years ago I used maneb which is comparable. Only use copper at the late stages of dormancy.


The AA chart has good info on whats good for what grape disease:

They put myclobutanil (Immunox/Nova/Rally/Eagle) at ++++, mancozeb gets +++ and captan gets + for black rot. The problem with black rot is there are very few pesticides that work well on it, and zero organic options.


OK, I’ve got one if someone has a good tip. Where to buy the rootmaker bags and what size ?

I got an Omega grafting tool for Christmas so I’m going to assume that is permission to start grafting more next year. I’m guessing that I can get by with about 3 gallon bags for the first year?

I’ll probably buy 50 rootstocks, all the same because they come in 50 bundles? I’m thinking about M26 or similar size.

I have several M26 and Bud9 M9 and I kinda like the slightly larger tree.
Oh yes, please think of me come scion time!! Otherwise they will just be what I have in the orchard which is a little boring.


I bought several sizes this year. I liked the 3 gallon size best, as the 2 were tight for a lot of rootstocks and dried out fast, and the 5 gallon size used up a whole lot of soil in a hurry. I bought several different brands off of Amazon. Bag size and shape seem to vary significantly from brand to brand. I prefer deeper bags with a small diameter over the short wide bags. If you study the sizes you can target the deeper bags - they are about 2" deeper than the short wide ones. Prices varied quite a bit too. Some of the less expensive brands I found were Vivosun, 247Garden, and Viagrow.


Just had a small hail storm roll through… good amount of marble sized hail driven by 60mph winds. Looked and I can see the bruises already showing on the very few apples that I have this year. I have a couple Pristine I was going to pick next week. Better to pick them now or just leave them on the tree for another week?


Pick at the normal time. They aren’t prone to rot from hail damage, at least not here.


Rot shouldnt be a problem here supposed to be hot and dry, upper 90s all week and no rain after tonight for a few days.



I have a mystery peach - in two ways. The first mystery is that we don’t know what variety it is. The second mystery is that we do not know why the peaches have not started to turn yellow. My Contender an Elberta peaches are bright red now. The peaches on this tree are very green.

The history behind the property is this. There is an old fallen down shack on the property and the people who lived in it died i the 70’s. Sometime between 1984 - 1986 a trailer was put on the front end of the property. I believe the trailer was abandoned before 2000. The peach tree is on the edge of what used to be a hog lot. No idea if it was an intentional planting or random tree that grew from a pit in the slop.

I believe the tree was likely planted or seeded in the late 80’s or 90’s but that is a guess.

The tree is on the edge of a wood line and does not get the best sun. It is getting enough sun that I feel some of the peaches should have started to turn yellow Anyone else have peaches that are still green? My father sprayed the tree with Bonide fruit spray which limited the disease damage but did not prevent insect damage. Any idea what variety this could be? The pics are in the prior post.


I doubt there is a person alive who could ID a peach based on the photos and info here. You’d have to know very late varieties that might have been available in the area to even venture an educated guess. That guess would be more likely accurate if you provide a picture of ripe fruit, both whole and halved.

Peaches sprouting up from seed are quite common and just make the matter more difficult.


Hi Alan - That is what is puzzling me. I grew up in this area. The only peach tree I ever remember seeing was on old gnarled tree on the property I grew up on - one tree. I spent my childhood in the woods and farms where I grew up - nobody ever explained to me property lines meant or what trespassing was. Long story short peaches are very uncommon in this area. The people who do grow them usually get them from Lowes or Home Depot which is this area means Elberta, Red Haven, Hale Haven and Belle of Georgia. Long story short common varieties. I guess to your point maybe a chance late seedling?


Our Belle of Georgia stays very green until shortly before it ripens, unlike many others that color up early. It should be due to ripen in 2 to 3 weeks and it is still quite green.


Always a good chance with old trees around here. But until you know if the fruit is really good the variety is of no consequence and if it is a great peach you can always graft it to a young rootstock.


Thanks Zeamaizing for the info on Belle of Georgia!


If the stuff i’m throwing on my compost pile right now (it’s huge for me…probably 6ft tall by 6ft around) …will it be ready to use next spring??? I’ve been butchering trees, ripping out flowers and piling it tall…most of the branches are thin…nothing thick…cleaning house lately.


Branches and chunks of wood probably not. Flowers and leaves should be ready. Depends on factors like if you’re turning it over, good mix of greens and browns, etc


Ok. I haven’t been turning it.


Compost piles need to be kept moist, but not overly wet. You want to be generating enough heat for decomp.


Can anyone tell me what kind of bush or tree this is? Its been in my yard since I bought my place. As you can see, it produces really pretty red flowers on the top, and nice white blooms all around the bottom. Its kind of interesting how one plant produces 2 different colors and keeps them in 2 different areas (top and bottom). Someone said it was a “sister Sharon”. Is that correct? Thanks


It looks a lot like a Crepe Myrtle. Does the bark peel? The two-color phenomena is apparently not uncommon. To develop the red, apparently full sunlight is needed, and shady areas can produce white blossoms. Since the white area is at the bottom of the tree (the shadiest) I’m wondering if this is a possibility.

At the bottom of this article is a summary of what I just said: