Questions not deserving of a whole thread


I need more grafting rubber . Not finding the rubber strips on eBay . Anyone got a source ? I might be using the wrong words in my search .


Try a search for “rubber budding strips”. If I recall the best price is usually here:


Do you know if your tree died in sections or the whole tree was gone altogether at once?

My cherry trees died of Verticillium wilt. You can look it up. For that problem, I don’t plant on those same spots.


I don’t know if it died all at once or not. I wasn’t here to observe it the whole time, so I can’t say for sure. I will look into Verticillium wilt. Thank you for you help!


You can tell if it is VW or not by cutting the wood (a trunk) cross section, to check, too. I don’t if you still keep that dead tree somewhere.

Also, one year of cherry leave spot won’t kill a tree. A tree will grow new leaves.
It is a very common cherry disease. If you are not object to chemical spray, myclobutanil like Immumox is effective. It is the same chemical for cedar apple rust on apples.


Do you need the spot this year? Removing the roots and turning it to a in ground compost for a year would be a good way to use beneficial bacteria and fungi to remove whatever disease was there and then you could replant next year? I would try to not put the same exact kind of tree in the same spot the next year without doing something to the ground. What about a different fruit tree in that spot and a cherry somewhere else?


I read a couple Extension papers on VW and looked at a few pictures of the streaking that is common in the wood. I will cut into it tomorrow and take a look. I am going to read up a bit more though, as I didn’t have much time earlier.

I am not oposed to spray at all. I try to minimize what I do, but once I see a need, then I make the effort to treat the problem. Part of my challenge is that my trees are still young and I don’t know what WILL be a problem. Rather than spraying a bunch of preventative stuff they maybe don’t need, I have been trying to monitor and spray when I do see an issue. I completely dropped the ball with this cherry though. I knew there was a problem but didn’t take the time to address it before I left. I never dreamed it would die! I didn’t think it was that serious. This year I am trying to take a more proactive approach and keep ahead of disease and pests, if possible. :slight_smile:
Looking back at my notes on spray treatments last year, it looks like the cherries got two rounds of Neem in March 21 and June 7. They got Permethrin, Captan, and Immunox on 7-30.

I don’t need the spot technically. I just wanted to have another cherry there, because it is the first tree in the row of cherries. So it will look weird to have a blank spot there! But I want the new Monty to have the best shot at survival, so I will pick out a new spot for him somewhere else. Thank you for your advice on ‘composting’ the spot for a year.


Is it safe to use scions from a tree with black knot? Have a local source of scions but dont want to import black knot into my orchard thanks


AM Leonard


My apple grafts from last year are happily living in 5-gal or smaller pots. Most of them grew very little since grafting. Should I fertilize them, and if so - with what? They will not be going into the ground until this fall at the earliest, probably next year mainly.


We have an early spring here in Connecticut. Does this mean that now’s the time to apply GrubEx? Or should I still wait?


Gooseberry people! I’ve a question regarding planting depth. Put out my first gooseberries (Friend, Red George and Hinnomaki Red) last season, but based on some stuff I’ve read since, think I may not have planted deeply enough. They were potted plants, and I planted them at nursery depth. Some sources say at least 1" deeper. I definitely want to grow them as bushes, not attempt to train them as standard “legs”; and want them sending up plenty of renewal canes. Should I build a berm up around them to achieve a slightly deeper planting depth, or will they be okay as is? (I have pretty heavy soil, if that makes any difference.) I also mulch deeply around them with rotting wood chips and other such materials to suppress weeds, build soil, and keep the roots cool here in 6b—so maybe that will help over time, too.

Have Jeanne, Black Velvet and probably Hinnomaki Yellow going in next—and will plant those a little more deeply.


Has anyone else experienced issues with shipping delays from Gurney’s? I ordered a Rubinette apple and a Drippin Honey pear. Each time I check the order status the shipping date gets pushed back a few days. Emailed them about but haven’t gotten a reply.


I’ve received three orders in the last month all right on time.


Gooseberry and Current root easisly from any contact with soil. I do not believe it is possible to plant to deeply as they wll just root more which is benifital to the plant. BTW I always plant my tomato starts this way. with the root ball and 4-6:" of stim below soil.


Thanks! I’ll just hill up around these a little, as planned, then, and plant the new gooseberries more deeply. That’s how I’ve always done tomatoes, too.


I got a quick reply from them and the customer service rep stated that she placed a rush order on it to hopefully speed the process. I’m going to have to be very patient anyways waiting for fruit set, so I might as well start now, hehe


Since we are on the subject of gooseberries, how big can the trees get? My neighbor has something on their tree lawn that looks like a gooseberry, has gooseberry leaves & fruit, but is WAY bigger than any description of a gooseberry plant.



i doubt thats a gooseberry. biggest I’ve ever seen them is a 6ft bush.


Are these fruiting buds? They are gage plum.