Same pot actually, just a top view.
I have a loose definition of clear. That pot has definitely gotten old and dingy lol.
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oh I can see that now lol
Some under the soil changes happening within 3 weeks for some varieties. Like Grovers Best and Queen Lucisous.
No changes under the soil for a few, like Black Prince in 5 weeks.
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are these pots the inexpensive and flimsy ones? i contemplated them but the reviews threw me off. if you know what youre in for i think they would be a good deal. do they become cylindrical when full of soil and do they keep their 4" diameter?
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Some of my taller pots for indoors are the “contractor trash bag” thickness. They suck. They are mostly fine for my own use but I wouldn’t recommend anyone else buy them. They can’t stand alone, I keep them in a 1020 and don’t carry them around anywhere so they are fine for me. But probably not good for most users. They could become roundish if you stuff the soil in.
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I bought a few hundred of the ones from Stuewe and Sons and they have held up well. Shipping is pretty bad, though. I believe you can buy smaller quantities at Greenhouse Megastore but I haven’t shopped there before.
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I am happy to report a very high success rate with my Jan’s everbearing! I see roots on the bottom of the pots of several of them.
First week of March I’ll try planting one in the ground and seeing how it responds.
Pedro
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have either of you used those panda poly bags before? maybe they would hold their shape better and fit nicely into milk crates 
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I would be more interested at $.05 a bag instead of $.24 lol. But for $12 its worth a try.
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yep like those. more so around the s&s tree pot sizes 4x12 or 4x14. i just dont think they exist.
Mine are 4 x 13.5 and I find them to tall when up potting to 5g. I’ve been using like 2/3 of the space or less so I think I would rather just have 4 x 8 or maybe something like 4 x 10.
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How long can mulberry cuttings be rooted in peat moss & perlite before needing nutrients?
I plan to plant them all in ground but I want to do it one by one to ensure I have some alive in case I kill them, so I might have to think about changing the potting medium or maybe fertilizing them…
Question is, when? How?
I appreciate the insights
Pedro
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You can fill that container with roots before transplanting if you like. I use osmacote plus if indoors. Osmacote plus and some organics if outdoors cause I dont want the house to smell lol. I wouldn’t change the soil at this time. There’s no need to change if its just peat moss and perlite anyway.
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I have enough of them I’m going to risk planting one outside in a couple of weeks…
BTW how do these Everbearing types do with late frosts? My Dwarf everbearing from Starkbros was buddying green with a few leafs and we may be getting 15F on Wednesday… Will it regrow the buds back?
Thanks for all your help, Lucas
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I would take that risk as well since you have so many. Can’t help you on the late frost, I don’t get frost at all. Coldest this winter has been 40f lol.
Mine have taking a late frost and then it acts like a pruning. They just regrow and re-fruit in my experience
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Mine handle the cold just fine. Late frost either zaps it to the ground or zaps all the fruit off. Depending how far along it was and how hard the late frost.
I believe mine have been in ground 4 or 5 years and I haven’t gotten any fruit because of late frost. But my late frost are usually bad and usually really late
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Thanks. How bad are your frosts? How cold?
At times we’ll hit the teens after the everbearing has leaves and fruit.
High 20’s and low 30’s it’ll handle ok when it’s leafed out like that. If it’s only over night and you’re protecting it.
Our springs can be weird though. It’ll be 80 degrees for two weeks then dip into the 20’s that night
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