I wouldnt explore for at least a couple of months. The foliage will tell u whats going on in the next month. Theres enough stored energy in the cane to go so far then it either goes or it dont.
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@krismoriah … yes… experienced that with my gerardi mulberry cuttings that I tried to root… all 3 budded leafed and even had fruit for a few weeks… then one by one started going down hill… and eventually was obvious they were not going to make it.
I inspected them after they failed… not one single root… but for a while there they were sure looking good.
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@Yoda … sorry missed your question above.
I think the advantages of the V trellis are…
You can divide up your fruiting canes to either side of that V. That sort of gives you twice the space for fruiting canes in the bed and they all still get plenty of sunshine.
It puts your fruiting canes on the outside… for easy fruit harvest… and those new primocanes have plenty of room to come up in the middle and get all the sunshine they need too.
Once your floricans are spent… you can take those out… and then pull your new canes to either side of the V.
I have a few blackberry and raspberry beds with a more simple trellis… where I just have a post on each end with a wire run between those post at 2 ft, and 4 ft.
When you have canes fruiting… and new primocanes coming up too and getting more mature, larger size… It is sort of a mess there for a while. You have fruiting canes and new primocanes that are all dependent on that wire in the middle for support… and it gets very crowded and messy and there is lots of competition for sunshine and not ALL get all they want.
Any blackberry or raspberry beds I do from now own, will have this V trellis setup. It just works a lot better than a (in the middle only) wire type setup.
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I cut all my raspberries down last fall since they were growing in a tangled mess. I like that V trellis idea. I’ll try it this year.
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Thanks, Trev, that makes sense. I got the supplies, and will set it up this week!
Which wire and gauge do you like best? I tried some 17 gauge for my lower wires… i dont like it too flimsy. Im using 15.5 for a certain blackberry i grow that needs alot of support. 12.5 is just too dang hard to fool with by yourself. Im happy with 14 gauge for most of my berries. I have seen where commercial operations out west use UV baling twine. I havent tried that one yet.
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I bought a roll of galvanized steel fence wire at our local TSC store. 17 guage… high breaking strength… won’t rust… galvanized. 250 ft. Just some of the wording on the roll.
I have 2 wires… first around 2 ft high… next around 4 ft. All of the V trellis made so far have been 6 to 8 ft long… and they have not stressed the structure at all yet. In a few more weeks will have loads of raspberries on… will see how they do with that… but don’t expect any problems. They handled the fall crop just fine last fall.
You could definately beef that up by changing to t-post and heavier Guage wire…
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Im going to try the harbor freight wire its 220ft for $8.50 and its stainless steel marine grade and 17 gauge for my black rasps. I have the aluminum 17 gauge and not fond of it so far.
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Well at day 37… my Lynn’s black are done for.
The sterling black are hanging in there, still Green tops… hopefully some roots developing ???
The Lynn’s black… had not one single root when I checked them…
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if they all fail try rooting them outside over winter. mulch around them and just leave them alone till spring. i bet most will root. there’s a fine line between moist and wet. wet kills cuttings. ive found they root better slightly dry .looks like most of them in the bottom pot made it though .
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Looks like they’re about to flower! I guess that’s a good sign.
My black raspberry cuttings failed, being too thin but I have some Tayberry cuttings that look fine. I also bagged them if that makes a difference.
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I am also trying to root some dormant raspberry cuttings.
Does anybody have any additional information that has not be mentioned previously in this thread?
@TNHunter and @krismoriah , what were your end results with your rooting trial?
Ive had very good luck sticking a cutting of any cane fruit where you want it, in the spring and have it root. i scratch down to the cambium in several spots and sink the cutting in so 1 or 2 buds are above ground. i finish with some kind of mulch around it to hold moisture. most take.
@treefrog1 … i had no luck rooting those raspberry cuttings. Had some top growth… but no roots.
Fig cuttings done the same way were successful… but not raspberry cuttings.
I only tried that one time.
Yes i think so.
just root via root cuttings. As far as i know you can grow just about any bramble you want except Illini Hardy Blackberry by root cuttings.
(sometimes when i order a raspberry or blackberry that i dont have, i take some root cuttings from the plant i order and plant it beside that plant… instead of buying 3 or 5 i may just buy one plant).
You can even buy roots to grow your own plants…
Or you can do trial and error with cuttings with misting or humidity domes or try in the spring, summer, fall or winter… all will have some measure of success… but nothing near root cuttings. I have gotten near 100 percent take on some cultivars but near or total failure on some using the same method…so i cant give any honest truthful advice of ‘this is how you do it’. YMMV.
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I have some root cuttings of a particular primocane blackberry that have not done anything in about a month. What kind of time before deciding root cuttings are a failure? Tip rooting seems like the most fail proof way of propagating cane fruit that I have found.
Blackberry root cuttings should be about pencil size and half as long as a pencil or more. They will send a signal to callus then a signal to propagate. Most do best after a chilling period… so the ones you order online have been in coolers. So next time take a cutting then put it in your cheese drawer in a damp coffee filter and ziplock for a month then plant it…if you dont get cold weather for enough chill hours.
If you want a free plant or more just dig down a few inches from the crown and follow some roots out and just clip it with pruners then cover it back up… then wait for a new plant. You can also run a shovel around half the plant and get all kinds of freebies. Or if you have voles just let them do what they do.
Im not sure on locations without high chill hours if any of that works… but i do know it works at my location. YMMV.
If you live in Z9A you will probably have better success with the fridge for root cuttings… perhaps im wrong though and you dont need it. I think they need dormancy to send the signal to propagate…but again not sure.
So I dug up a dormant plant and took a bunch of its roots and planted them in potting soil but haven’t seen any life yet. We don’t get much of a winter here but the blackberries definitely get enough chill hours I think. I Did take the crown which split in two and potting those up without much roots attached and they are both sending up new canes although I expect they will be pretty weak this year.
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