I have been grafting onto rootstock for a few years now and still having trouble getting night percentage results. I think I do a decent size matching the cambium layer to my grafts ( W&T, Cleft) I normally use electrical tape to secure the graft right the wraps it in parafilm. Thinking of switching to grafting rubbers next year bc I hate the process of taking the tape off and damaging the rootstock. I’m finding with a lot of my grafts they grow well for several weeks and then out of no where start to die off. I’m assuming it has a lot to do with moisture in the soil. What I’m looking for is what do most people like to plant their grafted rootstocks in after the graft. I like planting them in pots to make it easier to bring in/out so it’s been difficult finding what is best to plant them in until they are ready to be planted outside. Im hoping this helps with my grafting percentage! TYIA
If your rootstocks are still alive, soil probably isn’t the problem. What sorts of trees are you trying to graft? White the basic technique is the same, different species have different requirements. And some just have low take rates. Different trees also have different soil preferences. Soil is important, yes, but it’s close to the bottom of the list of what a graft might fail. You can make almost any soil work if you match your watering regime to it.
I definitely like grafting rubbers. They’re much easier than electrical tape to get a tight, even wrap. I suspect that might be your issue. It’s very easy for a well-aligned graft to get out of alignment when wrapped, or to not be wrapped tightly enough. There will be enough of a connection to keep the scion going for a while, but not enough for the union to grow together. The other side of the equation is a SHARP knife and good cutting technique. This makes the cutting easier and more accurate. The less you struggle on cutting, the less you’ll struggle on putting it together, which means fewer mistakes. Also, the whole operation goes faster, so it’s less likely to dry out.
Frank,
I agree with Jay, the primary factors are:
#1: wood compatibility rootstock to scion
#2: Cambium match, if #1 satisfied then this is the #1.
#3: Callousing ambient temps: well above freezing but below tissue damage during the first three weeks when the graft union is usually fully calloused.
#4: Pressure on the graft union: Smaller diameter scions 1/8” to 1/4”and rootstock require much less pressure than those larger simply because you can close the gap between the two with less effort. I use plain old 1” wide plastic strips to wrap the graft union on the smaller diameter scions; whereas, on larger scions with stiffer wood, I follow the initial plastic wrap with something stronger such as electrical tape or a rubber band to close the cambium gap between scion and rootstock. Electrical tape directly onto the bark is to be avoided for all types of wood, too difficult to remove.
Related to this factor is unintentional girdling!
After the graft union heals you need to remove the pressure around the graft union so that its new bark can expand during the growing season. Failure to do this will most often result in a girdled graft union which will ultimately break off due to girdling! I have lost many otherwise good grafts by forgetting to remove the constrictive tapes!
Any one of the above can lead to failure.
I use the following temperature guide for the type of fruit I am grafting.
Best of luck, if you satisfy all of the above factors, your results will be consistently improved!
Dennis
Kent, wa
Callusing temperatures of Fruit and Nut trees
Posted on May 21, 2013 by qwertyqweryt61
Nectarines/Peaches – 18-26 deg C. ( 64.4 to 78.8F)
Apricots/Cherries – 20 deg C. ( 68F)
Plums – 16 deg C. ( 60.8 F)
Apples/Pears – 13-18 deg C. ( 55.4 to 64.4F)
Walnuts – 27 deg C. (80.6 F)
Grapes – 21-24 deg C. ( 69.8 to 75.2 F).
Figs - 23.9- 29.4 deg C. ( 75-85 F).
Do not forget tissue damage for most temperate fruit will occur at temperatures over 30 deg C. (86 F)
So when your graft is in direct sunlight and you are over 70F highs, you should use aluminum foil shiny side out to shade the graft from any direct sun. Sun on a dark object such as electrical tape will fry the graft union before callousing can be completed.
Grafting at the time of year when the temperatures range night and day for at least 3 weeks of callousing will help you achieve the best results.
Temperatures either side of the optimum will also work, but the percentage take will be reduced. See graph below for walnuts.
l
Callus graph showing optimal temperature range
Awesome response thank you!