@BackyardTN
Sure grafting over a big one is not a problem. I would leave some of the branch structure. Take a,look at this thread the tree was very large Favor for a friend - Top working Pears!
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Thanks for the quick reply! I will check out that thread.
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I started grafting onto the wild invasive species of the Bradford. Best luck I had was picking a young tree. I cut most of the trunk off with 6-10 small limbs that grew last year. Graft on them. Had good luck with bark grafts on the top of the limb and that way it grows up later cut the limb off and coat the cut just passed the graft.
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Anyone top working large trees this year?
I tried topworking root suckers from a flowering pear with some Asian Pear. The tree is laden with fireblight strikes but I had nothing to lose. Well the graft grew some but eventually got FB and died. What variety can I try that might resist FB?
I would use ledbetter and later graft it over. Its completely resistant to fireblight. Im going to check if my graft took from last year What Pears will you grow this year?. I view it as lead tastes better but its great for the purpose you want it for.
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Warren has good fireblight resistance. In my experience, good sun exposure is important for preventing fireblight. If your grafts on root suckers are shaded by the tree they are more likely to get fireblight even if the variety is resistant.
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Depends on what you call a large tree 
I will hopefully be topworking 2 callery pears in my front section of my land 
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Most of the southern varieties have pretty good fireblight resistance. Here’s a list of the ones I have. Winnie, Granny Durden, southern Bartlett, Baldwin, LeConte, Goldenboy, Acre’s Home, Southern King, Tennosui, Tennessee, Scarlet, Orient, Moonglow, Savannah, Korean Giant, Shinko.
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This thread was started on March 16th and it reminds me just how close to that time of the year it is again. These pears i grafted over back then all produced a good amount last year but some more than others. Been truly blessed to have such an abundance. It’s been a tough year for my family due to my roomate Sheri passing away, my mother having occasional health issues, and i developed health issues. When i walk out the door everyday im still reminded how fortunate and blessed i am.
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Is it too late to ask for some scion wood from your small yellow pear.
Of course I’ll cover all costs
Mike
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@MES111
Michael i’ve been trying to keep things managable this year since ive had a tough year across the board. I have the scions but it will be hard for me to find time this year to get them to you. I wonder if @Barkslip or one of the other people who grow them would mind sending you a stick. If all else fails let me know and i will see what i can do. Ive given out hundreds of scions of the little yellow pear in past years so there are a bunch out there.
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I totally understand. Its been a tough time for you.
Manuang reached out and is sending me some.
Mike
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When grafting over a lot of Callery do you think the cleft graft is also more desirable to avoid limbs breaking in the future from things like ice and heavy bearing years… I guess my question is does the reputation of Bradford for its week limbs follow t’s callery cousins reverted back to the wild that some are using for rootstocks… I also should ask would a bud graft possibl develop a better Union with less scar tissue and less tendency to break in the future thank you 
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You can’t top work a large tree. Best to cut it off so you have a couple limbs at the bottom. What I found works good is bark grafting on a lateral limb. When you do the graft do it on the up side and be sure to make the cut on the Scion so the first bud faces up. If it takes cut all the buds but the one growing up. You can put two on one limb bit If they both take I usually cut the limb off and just leave one. You will get suckers and other limbs shooting out. Either graft on them or cut them off.dont let them grow and continue into the next season as they can blossom and produce viable seeds. You can graft every year and add varieties. Once your satisfied with it just keep.cuttimg off suckers and prune it like any other pear tree.
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@yarg
I would leave 3-5 foot of the tree and the best limbs like i did above and yes use cleft grafts. If the tree trunk diameter is greater than 5 inches i would use rind grafts.
@Beeman is correct if a tree is to large 12+" branches its difficult to work with.
Since you guys have been doing this a long time do you notice any inherent weakness@the graph Union on callery specifically, as compared to other under stocks…(ie, breaking from ice or heavy Bearing years.
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No wild callery and bet are actually much stronger than many other pears. The bradford callery pear has weak brittle wood which is where that comes from. They are trashy trees and break in every storm.
My brother has several “Cleveland select” which is an improved variety as you know of Bradford and he wants me to graph them over… I presume that wood is week as well?.. they are about in the 2" caliper. What graph would you recommend… or should I pull them out and bring in some wild cousins lol
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