Given that this is a Nectaplum, I wonder if you can graft this on Myro directly which might have a longer life than Lovell which is a peach seedling.
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Looking good! I like both a lot! I hope to develop my own soon.
In the meantime I will enjoy the ones I have.
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Hi Jose,
I am very happy to see more experienced growers from europe chime in to this wonderful forum. I am just an amateur gardener from germany and am looking forward to your writing about cherries. I am especially eager to read about the main differences between adara and monrepos. I plan to plant one of them as a mothertree for scion collection. I was lucky to score and graft some adara scions last year. Now I am wondering if monrepos would be the much better choice. I will wait for your post.
I am looking for spice zee nectaplum for some years now. Do you know a source offering it for sale ( scion or tree)?
BR
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I’m the opposite, I need some acid with that sugar unless the brix of peaches or nects get above about 18, which in my climate is not an easy thing to accomplish. I am in NY State and get 3-4" or about 10 centimeters of precip per month which tends to water down brix.
You should love many of the Dave Wilson varieties which are often low acid. But I’m guessing if they market their patents there you already know that.
Oh my God, The Americans you are worse than Spaniards (we usually mix topics in forum posts) hahahahahaha.
We are going to destroy Stan’s post, about rootstocks suitable for soil problems.
For the record, I only answer to their questions hahahahaha
Hi carot, the patent for the interspecific variety Spice Zee Nectaplum, is still in force, so it can not to multiply this variety in Europe at the moment .
Hi Alan,
My God if you like stone fruit (peaches, flat peaches, nectarines, flat nectarines, and yellow cling peaches) with high brix levels of sugar, and balanced acidity (just a slight touch of sparkling acidity in the mouth), with some varieties from the PSB Obtencion Vegetal , and Provedo nurseries, are totally hallucinatory for you , since there are truly incredible varieties.
For example the Brittney Lane peach variety (marketed in the United States and Europe).
It is a peach with excellent AAA size (maximum fruit size), very beautiful exterior coloration, but when eating it there is a problem, since it has low sugar levels (only 10-12º brix), and a very high acidity, so that , this taste for the northern European countries is suitable (they love high acidity), however for southern European countries (especially Spain and Italy), it is totally inappropriate, since in general we like fruit very sweet .
On the contrary, for example the Fresh Big peach variety, has the characteristics of Britney Lane in terms of AAA size, excellent exterior red coloration, but the difference lies in its sugar brix levels (15º brix and higher values if grown in warm regions), and a balanced acidity.
This gives it a really spectacular flavor.
This is Brittney Lane.
And this is Fresh Big
https://www.provedo.com/es/producto/arboles-frutales/melocoton-nectarina/fresh-big/
This is just a small example with a single variety, but the list of European varieties with the flavor that you like is endless.
As for the varieties that Dave Wilson markets for the European market, most of them are different from those that are sold in the United States.
This breeder develops varieties suitable for European taste.
For example, the Royal serie or some of sweet serie of peaches is not in the American catalog, and these varieties are available for Europe.
Some examples of peaches of the Royal and Sweet series not marketed in the United States ( there are more varieties )
Regards
Jose
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spice zee patent expires in the US in 364 days
https://patents.google.com/patent/USPP13503P2/en
not sure exactly how this works in Europe but I think if the country is a signatory of UPOV and doesn’t have a local patent then the US patent does apply and will expire at the same time next year. if there’s a local patent then it might have a later expiration
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With regards to the original question from @stan
Last year I pulled out 25+ trees. Most of my DWN plums/pluots on citation (75%) and Myro (50%) had crown gall! It even spread to my David Austin roses! Plums on Marianna (non DWN trees) & peaches/nectarines/apricots on citation (DWN) did not have any crown gall.
When I put in my second round of new trees, I soaked them in NOGALL for preventing Crown Gall Disease - Evergreen Growers Supply, LLC (I think this was suggested by @DCinFLX and @Olpea ) I remember one of my favorite roses that was full of crown gall. I cut out all of the galls and soaked it in nogall and planted it in a new spot. This year, I decided to dig it up again to put it in a pot and no new crowngall noticed! So maybe this stuff works!
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Reviving @Stan’s thread on Crown Gall and Citation rootstocks. Today, I pulled out a few trees on Citation that were runting. To my surprise, I didn’t see any problems with the roots until I got to the Candy Heart pluerry
Clearly a crown gall infestation. I have a few options here.
- Plant one of the Myro 29C rootstocks I’ve ordered in this area
- Plant Lovell or K86 and convert this space into a peach/Nectarine tree. Are these rootstocks more resistant to crown gall?
- Plant something other than a stone fruit. I read Apples and Pears are susceptible to crown gall too (but may be for different variants). How about figs, pomegranate or persimmon?
Candy Heart was slightly isolated (it’s not a big yard though) from other plums so I am hoping I can isolate the problem. The only other stone fruit, Spice Zee nectaplum planted next to it (on Lovell) is growing well.
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If I remember correctly, for stone fruit roots: Myro 29C is more resistant than Citation (it’s also more vigorous so can outgrow the problem), peach is more resistant than plum, apricot is more resistant than peach. More resistant does not mean they are immune, it’s just relative to each other.
If I remember correctly, apples and pears are susceptible to crown gall but less so than stone fruit.
I’ve never seen figs, pomegranates, and persimmon mentioned as susceptible to crown gall, but they are less important commercially, so might be omitted from lack of interest. In my experience, I’ve never seen a fig suffer from root problems. Pomegranates do suffer from root rot if drainage is bad.
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We just planted a bunch of pluots/plums on citation from DWN about a year ago. Is there any preventative steps to take in the early years to overcome crowngall? Or it is just wait and see?
I don’t mean to say there is a causal relationship between Citation and crown gall. Clearly, it is susceptible. It also needs more water than other rootstocks. All of my fruit trees on Citation (except the apricot) were not growing well and only Candy Heart had crown gall when I dug them up. Its possible that CH was infected when I bought it. I also water my trees much less due to the drought restrictions here. That could have exacerbated the problem.
If your trees are growing well, they are probably fine. Although, I am not an expert on how to treat fruit trees or prevent the disease.
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Thank you @californicus. Most of the pluots (flavor king, queen and fall) and sweet treat pluerry are vigorous in their first growing season…we have some dapple dandy in the same area on Myro…they are very vigorous…will report as soon as I see something interesting.
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Similarly, I had a couple trees this year (on citation) not growing well. This included my Candy Heart Pluerry on which I found a similar size gall a yours in the photo. Also tore out a Dapple Supreme pluot, but didn’t see any obvious galls on that one.
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I’ve got a Flavor Queen, Flavor Grenade, and Candy Heart on Citation coming in the Spring. Are people in the NE open center pruning these or using a central leader? I’m seeing a lot of people on YouTube doing a central leader, some of them in in the desert and trying to avoid scorching their scaffold branches which makes sense, but others…I’m not sure why.
It would depend on how much space I have. If I have ample space I would do open center, if space is limited I would do V or central leader. You can think of open center as 3-4 central leader trees in one. Open center more easily allows you to have multiple varieties on the same tree.
I have a one year old Ilona apricot on Myro with visible gall at the base of the stem. I decided to leave it and see how it grows over the next few years. My dad has a full sized peach tree, about 10 years old, which is very vigorous and has multiple crown falls on its stem. I don’t know which rootstock it is on. I have read before that figs are also susceptible to crown galls, but I don’t know the relative susceptibility compared to other stone fruits. I spoke with an orchard owner in Pennsylvania and he told me that when they renew orchard blocks, they remove the trees and grow grass for two or three years to allow the crown gall bacteria to fade away before they replant new trees.
@californicus Where would you get K86? I could not find it as a rootstock, but only as grafted trees on K86.
I only have a grafted tree with some peach grafted on it. Andy Mariani was offering to order it for the CRFG folks last year and I added my name to the list.