Many nurseries suggest that bare root plants result in a superior tree. I’ve found this totally false in my climate. Pecan trees suffer extreme transplant shock when planted bare root. Conversely, potted pecans do extremely well. Actually, all species do poorly for me when planted bare root.
Yes, @BambooMan, that’s what some folks mentioned in the thread I linked. Pecan bare root trees have a huge tap root, but not a lot, if any, smaller feeder roots.
Of my 8 trees, many of the scions detached from the rootstock. Did they do that because the scion died, or was it a suspect graft union to begin with? From what I’ve read from people much more experienced in the matter, (@Lucky_P and @Barkslip, can you comment?), these types of grafts can be difficult to take.
I’ve bought pecan trees from every major online nursery including PMG. The bare roots stink, they are usually “carrot sticks.” Like you said no feeder roots, which means no sap to the tree. This results in death of the scion, graft union and possibly lower. The plant wants to live so it provides sap to the healthiest portion of the understock. For me, this is often below the soil line. I think the grafts would be fine if the trees were never uprooted. All my potted PMG pecans are robust and healthy. In fact, this past summer I purchased a 3 gallon pecan from PMG. I repotted it into a 30 gallon pot upon delivery. This past weekend I field planted this same tree. It’s root ball completely filled the 30 gallon pot, and it developed a new tap root. It would have been fine to field plant it upon delivery, but I don’t like field watering during the summer.
Has anyone in zone 3 or 4 of WI or MN ever actually harvested any pecans?
In short, a good root system will transplant excellently as bare root. A friend has grafted bareroot and taken them directly to the field and has gotten 90% success long term. 100’s of grafts at a community college.
No feeder roots though and those are likely going to die. That’s pretty well the same as you say for all trees.
A well knitted graft on a good/great root-system is not going to perish unless it’s neglected of water. Anyone should be able to graft on bareroot in spring and a few months later go plant those grafts as bareroots to the field.
Zone 4 yes. Zone 3 the growing season is too short.
A grafted tree on Northern rootstock such as native Missouri or Illinois root systems are completely hardy in zone 4. You’d need find a cultivar with the least amount of days to mature their nuts. Somewhere on here we’ve talked about which two cultivars should mature in zone 4. I’m sure it’s on the pecan thread if you were to search and do some reading. ‘Warren 346’ was one, but, I forget the other.
Ok here it is: Pecan
Barkslip, Thanks. I have seen several recommendations by various nurseries and by posters here for hardy pecans, but what I want to know is if anyone up here near Minneapolis has ever actually harvested any nuts from them.
I think Dax is spot on about bare root, but the problem is the inconsistency in the quality of root systems with many nurseries. I like to always add the caveat, “in my climate and soil,” a plant that is potted and not root bound will always outperform bare root. My soil is extremely heavy clay, and my winters go directly to summer with wild swings in between. If you plant too early a late frost kills the small leaves and zaps the life out of the newly grafted plant. If you plant too late the brutal summer temperatures and unrelenting sun can fry your plant to a crisp, despite adequate water and proper pruning. For me, my favorite time to plant is during the fall. Apples and pears are another story, they can be planted just about anytime for me. However, my potted apples and pears will be four times the size of the bare root in three years time. This is just my experience, I’m sure people in different climates have totally different results.
Small revision, im feeling like experimenting so im trying out Splendour on G969
Blazingstar - ACN
Prelude/Bristol black - Nourse
Violette DeBordeaux fig
Anyone delaying there 2018 orders in hopes of a black Friday coupon?
I felt so burned. right after my last order arrived the vendor started putting out 20% and free shipping coupons.
Albemarle Ciderworks just reopened its tree sales division today after a long hiatus from disease quarantine.
They are not doing peaches this year.
They have apples, pears, plums, and a cherry. Website has beautiful photos of the fruit as grown at their Virginia site, with interesting descriptions.
Info on their rootstocks.
They also sell scionwood.
well, i received my 3ft. juliet cherry last week, when i was supposed to only get it next spring. grounds not frozen hard yet but i decided to plant it in a good sized pot till’ spring. i sure hope it makes it. i hate planting anything this late in the season.
Put the pot in a dark garage or shed. Keep it out of the cold winds.
I am alerting Steven @skillcult about this post seeing as he is a great collector of crabapples and redfleshes.
This fall, Albemarle Ciderworks is selling trees of:
In case you’re missing any of these in your collection:
thanks for the advice! will do.should i water it occasionally? usually just put established potted plants outside in a protected spot for the winter.
Yes-- Water it about once a month over the winter.
No-- Don’t leave the pot outside in Zone 3. That’s too chilly willy. Those Seskatchewan cherries are very cold hardy, but that’s when the roots are planted and protected in-ground. Unknown to me whether they would survive in a pot unprotected outdoors in northern Maine. I wouldn’t chance it. The cold winds might desicate the exposed roots.
ok . thats what i thought also. i have the top of soil mulched with wet newspaper to help retain moisture. we get deep snow most winters but ill still err on the side of caution.
Just ordered four Ochlockonee Rabbiteye Blueberry Plants and a Li Jujube Tree from Isons. My first time ordering from Isons.
I added a Liberty on G.30 and Harrow Sweet pear on OHxF 87, so my updated order:
- Ashmead’s Kernel - G.935
- CrimsonCrisp (Co-op 39) - G.30
- CrimsonTopaz - G.30
- Golden Russet - G.222
- Newtown Pippin - G.30
- Winecrisp (Co-op 31) - G.30
- Liberty - G.30
- Harrow Sweet - OHxF 87
I have 5 year old GoldRush and Sundance trees right now. Am I missing anything for Zone 6b, upstate NY? I considered the following:
- Pristine - not available on a semi-dwarf rootstock, or I’d probably choose it over Newtown Pippin
- Arkansas Black
- Pixie Crunch
- Suncrisp - thinking I already have a lot of green/yellow apples, and Ashmead’s Kernel and Golden Russet seem like better additions to my current GoldRush and Sundance trees
- Zestar - wasn’t wowed by this from our farmer’s market, not a super firm apple and didn’t keep well
- NY 35 (Bonkers) - seems Liberty is probably a better choice, not many reviews of this apple
- King David
- Chestnut Crab
These are probably the last 8 trees I have space for. I’ve tasted Crimson Crisp, Topaz, and Zestar, but none of the others. I’m most on the fence over Newtown Pippin and Winecrisp. I’ve mostly prioritized disease resistance (hoping to spray mainly for bugs) and keeping qualities. I might still swap the Newtown Pippin for Pristine if it becomes available, since it seems to be one of the best and earliest of the summer apples. I’m thinking Newtown Pippin is similar and not as great as GoldRush, which I already have. I’m open to suggestions.
So far --> Coe’s Transparent cherry and Parkhill cherry from Arboreum. I’ve been wanting to try some guigne cherries and these are about the only two I’ve found available. I’ll probably order some plum and cherry rootstock from Raintree. The Raritan Rose peach I planted late last year didn’t make it so I might try to find one of those (sometimes Grandpa’s has them) or I’ll try to get some scion wood. I really need to curtail planting new stuff and focus more on grafting. Even so, I might add a cold hardy muscat grape if it is feasible. Also, I might add some black raspberries and rip out blackberries since they are prone to SWD damage due to ripening later.