What I may have learned about grafting stonefruit this year

I didn’t know you could freeze scion wood.

Earlier this spring, I think I was averaging about 7 per hour (8.5 minutes). Today, I was able to average about 5 minutes, but I think it was because I was doing a bunch of the same variety and just took a pic of them, instead of labeling and taking notes. The chip buds may be a bit quicker than cleft grafts as well, as there are only 2 cuts instead of 3.

I tried to find a Youtube video I remember of a guy going along a row of grapes making chip buds at an unbelievable speed. Something like 15 seconds each. I haven’t located it yet, but I did find another one which addresses something you brought up earlier about grafting to green wood. The guy in the video makes me cringe- I’m surprised that he still has all his fingers.


One interesting note- it looks like the video is in Spanish and Youtube is using TTS (Text To Speech) to narrate. This is the first time I’ve seen this.

Maybe…The key part being “as well as you are going to” :smile:

I’m always learning more about grafting. This year I learned to not chop off the stock before leaves started pushing. I was dong this to be more efficient, get the tops cleared out before grafting season. But on peaches at least its a bad idea - my only two failures in my early round were on stocks I did that to. Apples I topped early all did OK but they seemed to take longer to get going than the ones I topped right when I grafted. I also learned to stick to cleft grafts (or green grafts) on grapes. And I learned that putting black tar on graft unions might help if the weather gets too cool on you.

As part of budding today, I took apart some of my failed peach grafts and took a look. I found 3 different scenarios.

1.) Nothing happened- just a dry graft.

2.) Sap oozed and dried over the graft

3.) A callus formed (and went a bit wild), but the buds did nothing. These two are Zin Dai Jui Bao.

Any thoughts on what would cause scenario 3? I unwrapped ~7 grafts and 3-4 of them were like this. Maybe the buds were killed by the strong sun before the callus was fully formed?

The callus could all be from the stock, right? The scion doesn’t have to do anything but set there and die while the stock forms callus. My thought anyway on that type failure.

I don’t know why this would happen in one case and no callus in #1.

Number 2 is what I’ve seen at times when T budding onto thick barked peach stock.

So, it is just the host tree’s immune response to the injury? If so, that doesn’t mean I was close to a take at all. Or for that matter what was wrong. I wonder what caused some of them to respond like that and others like #1 and #2, all on the same tree.

Sorry about the big type above. Don’t know what happened there. Sort of like some of those grafts!

The big type happens when you have two “#” in a row.

##Like this example.

You can get the same effect by clicking on the “A” above (third icon from the right).

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I won’t say #3 is an immune response. The tree puts out callus to heal an injury like filling a gap. If the scion also puts out enough callus that the two meet they form a union. If the scion is too dry and doesn’t form any callus the gap can be filled by the stock with it’s vastly bigger reserves of nutrients and water, but still no union.

I’d say #2 could be a bacterial infection. But it happens so often when T budding thick bark it’s probably something else. I don’t feel infections cause many failures under good budding conditions and I pay little attention to sterile procedures.

Number 1 might just be a union that was not sealed well. Everything dried out. Too dry for even the stock to fill in the gaps with callus.

The ooze is common on failed stone fruit grafts, the scion rots and infects the stock. I had one stock I put two bark grafts on either side, one had a bad (rotten) scion and it was oozing and rot was spreading to the other side. I had to lop off a big chunk of the top of the 2" stock to cut out all the infected wood and it almost had spread to the good graft.

The callous looks like its the cleft callousing over? Callous is meant by nature to seal the tree’s own injuries.

I did a third round of stone fruit and it looks like they also failed. I think it was too hot by then. These guys sure are picky. Next time on the later/warmer ones I am going to put foil on a large part of the trunk so it stays more cool.