What paint to mark grafts , varieties?

I have noticed that many trees that you buy from the bigger nurserys often has the rootstock painted one color and the scion painted another color.
I want something that is easy to use in the feild, long lasting, and will not hurt the tree… And maybe multiple different colors.
I bought some white shoe polish today , in a bottle with a sponge applicator tip . Will cautiously test this.
Looks convenient to use, will it hurt my tree.? Last long?
I need something as convenient as this.
Does anyone have any other suggestions, ?
Last year I used a metallic sharpie , above and below some chip buds, it helped me find them , but I need something better, brighter, a "big “paint mark . With one swipe.
Tried a paint pen… Took a while to make the " big” mark I wanted.
Ideally this would have a 1/2 -3/4 inch applicator tip, multiple different colors, long lasting, nontoxic to the tree
Need ideas ?

These work great!

https://www.amazon.com/Amekron-Impress-Aluminum-Labels-Outdoor/dp/B00U52ZIXM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_86_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HW53EAPE142F8ARV1F6S

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I agree with @LTCider that Aluminum tags are the best idea. But to give a paint answer, I would say mix latex paint 50/50 with water just like you would to white wash tree trunks in the winter to protect from sun damage.

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This is what I do. You can use any old paint and in my experience so far it does not come off - a definite plus. Actually if anything you can see how much your trees grew since you last applied it!

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I do use the aluminum tags.
I like them.
And …I have heard of using latex paint…

But, I need some thing to mark the actual graft Union, so that I can tell " where" exactly it is grafted, so as to be able to tell what is rootstock, and what (where ) is scion.
I need something more convenient than a jar of paint and a brush. I may use this in a nursery , or in the Field.
That’s why I am thinking the shoe polish applicator . I could put this in my pocket to carry, maybe I should put latex paint in the shoe polish bottle ?

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Yeah, I use a typical whitewash mix (indoor latex paint thinned with water).

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Maybe one of these products or a DIY version will help

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shur-Line-Touch-Up-Painter/44588197?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1122&adid=22222222227031846010&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=59241756992&wl4=pla-122254788752&wl5=9014409&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=101593696&wl11=online&wl12=44588197&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6cvw9vrf4AIVlo-zCh0-TgXREAkYCiABEgKxP_D_BwE

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Touch-Up-Paint-and-Storage-Roller-Unit-2001040/301849004

https://www.consumercrafts.com/store/details/catalog/papercraft-stamping-tools/st-dab-006

https://www.schoolspecialty.com/sargent-art-chroma-empty-reusable-paint-dispenser-with-dauber-tips-1-oz-translucent-pack-of-10-443501

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Yah. That’s more like what I am looking for !
On Amazon it says it does not have a cap,
If I can find a model with a cap, that will work.
Thanks

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I think you want something in a spray can, and I doubt a quick squirt of just about any readily available handy-dandy household stuff would hurt your trees, but I’ve noticed that Doc Farwells stands out in photos people have posted here, and it’s recommended for tree wounds.

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Used to be we’d seal a cut in a tree with whatever spray paint was handy, it never seemed to hurt anything, so why not use it on the bark? I do use treekote now :roll_eyes:

For whats its worth, there are fruit tree growers here in the UK, that have a colour coded ‘marking stripes’ on each tree.
They use emulsion latex paint, applied with a 1 inch wide brush. All the tree varieties have a color coding. Stripe from top ‘red’ next ‘white’ etc etc.
They are coded when planted out, and re applied on a yearly basis.
They are sold in bundles of the same variety, but only one has the actual label on.

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Yes, I like that, as tags can get lost.

Am I supposed to use indoor or outdoor paint? I didn’t dilute and used outdoor paint. It doesn’t stay on as well as I expected.

Dax

I have used spray paint to mark trees, mostly in my wood lot on older trees to mark which ones stay or get cut.
These trees have thick bark, and I have never seen any damage from the paint.
I am somewhat hesitant to use it on my precious grafts.
As i would be afraid of damage from the volatile stuff on thin young bark.
So now I am thinking to use latex paint in one of those qt. size spray bottles with the finger pump. To mark graft unions in the field ,or the touch up roller And maybe big fat paint pens, for more detailed marks in the nursery.
I just need to see at a glance where the union is. With out hunting for it.
Last year I was re grafting a row of pawpaw seedlings , as I put the tag on one ,after grafting it, I noticed there was a graft from last year lower down ,that I had over looked.
A paint mark would have saved time. I did not have it marked.
Likewise , color coded , rootstock/ scion marks in the nursery would save time, and help keep things organized.

I have heard of people using many different things to mark with, yet have not really heard of any damage from paint
But this is of real concern to me.
I would hate to spend all day grafting, just to kill the bark with paint. !
So… Has anyone seen any damage from marking paint ?
If so… What kind?

I always see interior white latex paint recommended for sun damage prevention on bark. Exterior latex has some preservatives that for some reason are deemed undesirable.

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I think thinning is to weaken the paint so that it will crack in the expansion areas of the bark as the tree grows. I’m guessing it will peel off in large pieces of not thinned. In any case, it will fade after a couple years due to growth. Permanent grafts should get a refresh coat every couple years.

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Yes , but what brands, etc.
I would feel better about all this if we could determine what specific brands ( formulas) of paint / markers are plant safe, and which ones to avoid.
One brand/ formula could be very different from another.
Hopping all this talk here will encourage us to do some trials
( not on your favorite plants) and report back,
Looks like a science project .
And / or hopefully this has been done and people can report what ," specific " brands work / which ones don’t .
Long lasting, nontoxic to plants, convenient ,is what we need

I visited an enormous pecan orchard and this guy paints every union (only the union) every year (touch up) and he said anytime he comes across sales on paint or at an auction/anything of this type he buys it all.

He has 30-40 year old trees down to 4-6’ trees.

Hope this helps, Dave.

Dax

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I use a small can, 8 oz, Int-Ext Latex Gloss Enamel, happens to be Tru-Test, blue. Something we had around. With a cheap stiff artist brush I can easily walk through the orchard dabbing a spot of paint on the grafts. Tried spray paint but liked the small brush a lot better. Less messy and easier to get it right where i want it. Been doing it maybe 5 yrs, renewing when needed. I started when I noticed I was “losing” my graft points. Works well for me and haven’t noticed any problems. I don’t paint all around just a spot. Seems to last 2-3 yrs. Sue

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Consider also something like this (an empty rubber cement container) https://www.amazon.com/Empty-Plastic-Bottles-Applicator-Container/dp/B00OI1XKI6/ if you are like me and really want to glop it on with a brush.

I just painted my grafts the other day and used a very wet brush to really get in the nooks and crannies of the bark. I wanted it very well marked.

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