scott, need another black ice scion? I don’t believe mine are swelling yet, and can cut and send tomorrow.
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Well, my early grafts are waking up.
Asian plums, apricots, pears, apples were grafted in the beginning of March and they got 17 F night. Sweet and sour cherries and mulberries were grafted after the freeze about the middle of March.
A. Plum Lavina.
Pears Ubeleen and Rescue.
Apricot Autumn Glo.
Sweet and sour cherry.
Gerardi mulberry.
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Mark thanks for the generous offer! I’ll PM you.
Thanks! I get it now.
I can only get out there on the weekends, but last sunday, some of the peaches were just starting to bloom, so things should be in full swing this weekend.
Thanks again
I got six for six plums that had been in there 10-days. I think 10-days is pretty normal for many types of fruit trees to callous. The scions did wake up after 6-7 days. They were from Seattle albeit.
My pecans/hickories/hicans (batch #1) have been in there more than 2-weeks and haven’t pushed at all. That’s how I would expect everything to go if scionwood is fully dormant.
2-weeks should be pretty ideal for apples, pears, peaches, plums, pawpaw, persimmon, and anything that’s a softer wood species. You get into pecans and walnuts and 3-weeks is necessary for full callous.
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Good to know on the Fuji Red Sport 2, I got from GRIN in 2016, I have one on G30 that grew like gangbusters last year, should be a pretty decent size tree by the end of the growing season this year.
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Great.
Dax
Yes; I got my Fuji-2 scions from GRIN too.
Last year’s graft failed. Hopefully this year I’ll get some takes.
I consider this apple the second best keeper for the humid East, beat only by the vaunted Goldrush in our climate.
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Is that flower buds or vegetative buds?
Redhaven from @njgrower starting to look pretty good. Used Konrad’s modified bark graft from GW.
Back up graft of Redhaven on my Hale Haven. Simple cleft graft. Electrical tape is sticky side out.
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Both. No buds on that stick look alive.
Technically this is a 2016 graft, but I thought this was dead last fall! It’s my first chip bud graft and it’s obviously alive! It’s a Giant Elberta I got from some friends. I put it on an Arctic White Supreme graft. Super stoked about this!!!
Here’s what it looked like on March 20th:
April 15th:
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Very nice for sure…!! My one reservation is the weak union/crotch you’ve ended up with. You better tie that off to the rest of the tree. That might not survive heavy winds and won’t survive a heavy crop.
OK now I see the chip bud. Above refers to the union by the wire. I assume you’ll cut off the branch above the chip. You still might have breakage issues down the line.
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Thanks for the breakage reminder. The graft above the wire is the Arctic. It’s been on there for 2 years now. I pruned it back significantly last month as it’s quite vigorous. I won’t let the fruit get to be too much for these. Fruit now isn’t the priority. I want this branch to get huge to pull the tree back, since it leans the other way.
[quote=“mamuang, post:173, topic:10100, full:true”]
Both. No buds on that stick look alive.
[/quote]I’ve never seen that before. The vegetative buds should be a lot hardier than the fruit buds. Usually the whole stick is dead or just the flower buds. I can’t imagine any biz sending questionable scions without sending some conciliatory offering as well. Coincidentally, I got just that from Masonville this year. Some of their scions look bad. They included an explanation/apology and sent all the alternates I listed as well.
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Hi @scottfsmith
With peaches, I’m wondering if you’ve seen a difference in results between splice, chip, whip and tongue or cleft grafts. Obviously sometimes the size difference doesn’t give you as many options, but I was thinking maybe doing a couple of chips on opposite sides of a branch might given me a better batting average than if I just use one of the others with a single scion grafted.
I’ll try my first round of grafts on peaches this weekend, but will hold some scion back in case I need to try re-grafting some.
I have found the weather and tree/scion condition to be far more important than type of graft. For me I have older stocks I am topworking and I put a large number of scions around any stock - often 6-8 on one stock. Whatever it takes to have lots of graft attempts is worth it. Also I always try to do two rounds with peaches, only use half the wood the first time. You can add-on grafts later for bark or chip.
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What’s the best way to top work a big fat branch (slightly smaller diameter than a soda can) with much smaller scion wood? Do you pound some sort of wedge in there like you would do in a cleft graft with similar sized pieces of wood, or can you just make in incision into the bark and try to insert the scion?
Just trying to learn all I can… is that because the angle is not ideal? It should be a bigger angle there between the two big branches?
Bart, I have many of those “soda cans” … I always do bark grafts on them because its easy to do 6-8 grafts on one stem. You can put grafts about 1" apart. If you put them too close the stock bark can peel off between the grafts. But no worries even if that happens, cut a piece of twig which pushes the bark back down and wrap to hold it that way.
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