The scionwood should be collected dormant. The tree should be grafted when it’s not dormant.
Now I understand better: I believe there has been a misunderstanding.
I still need to collect the scionwood from the trees, that are presently in the growth phase, and then graft it onto the paper mulberries. This is why I was thinking about doing bud grafts at the end of the summer/beginning of autumn.
For my situation it is too late to do the apical grafting you kindly suggested and I should wait until next February/March, right?
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Yes if you would like to gather your own scion wood you should wait.
I top the male Che from Hidden Spring and grafted the seedless Che from Strudeldog and it took. I went out to rub off all the growth below the graft union and was very happy to see a bunch of little Che fruits. ?.
Tony
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Wow that’s great Tony! I would not have expected that Che to fruit for years to come.
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If the fruits stick, I just wanted to taste it one time to know what how good it is then I am happy to move on to something new.
Tony
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Do Che flower and then fruit or are they like a Fig,where everything is contained?The one I had,tasted like Watermelon,but not quite as juicy and had a lot of tiny seeds.That’s good,there is a seedless variety. Brady
Thank you for the reply. By the way, is there anyone who has ever tried grafting on paper mulberry?
Any information on the things that take and those that don’t?
I was also wondering if I should use the osage orange as a bridge?
Brady,
I found a couple of photos of young Che fruits. I think they form just like figs.
Tony
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Yes those are blooms, much like Mulberry with the small fruits and tenticle like parts covering them. Don’t be surprised if they drop. This pic is from prior year but my tree is covered up again.
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i’d say two weeks or so, maybe sooner if you get warm weather. Really hoping they make it!
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morus nigra is a tricky thing for many would-be buyers(as well as sellers). One of us in this forum actually received a ‘black beauty morus nigra’ from burntridge, which, when she showed me a picture of, is totally different from the black beauty i bought from burntridge four years ago.
i have pretty much given up on buying nigras online— well, primarily because there is a nursery here which sells them as 7 footers, and which i could take a good look at and tell apart from the other 7-footer albas, rubras, and hybrids being sold in the same nursery. Was actually at one of the nurseries earlier today, and had to rearrange the trees as a public service to would be buyers! Could safely say i can isolate nigras from other mulbs(even without the fruits) just by looking at the stems and leaves. So any buyer who might want to get a nigra will definitely get the real deal. Have to admit though that i can never be confident about identifying albas among themselves, and neither with rubras and hybrids
We are consistently in the eighties now, yes I hope they hang on there
Wanted to post a weekly update. The grafts are doing very well. The hail broke off dozens of pear grafts so it’s very fortunate these grafts were not lost to the severe storms. The 4 pictures below are mulberry understock with che male and females grafted on.
This picture below is seedless che grafted to osage orange
The 2 pictures below are osage orange grafted to mulberry understock
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Thanks for the update!
My Illinois Everbearing on morus alba benchgrafts are leafing out and lots of flower buds coming with. It is going to a chore plucking all those off of the 100 or so young uns in the row!
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Weekly update on the Che/Mulberry experiment. So far they seem compatible after 6 weeks or so after bark grafted.
Tony
Che on Mulberry understock with fruits.
Here are the multi-grafted mulberries.
Pakistan, Geraldi, Kokuso, and Short internodes.
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6 weeks should be enough to tell if they will fail or grow. They look excellent Tony. I have seen latent incompatibility but never with that kind of nice growth.
got to hand it to many of the posters here-- this thread is single-handedly transforming this .org into a trailblazing .edu 
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