Try this I bought Kocide from them this winter, they are the cheapest I’ve found. https://www.martinsproducesupplies.com/chemicals/[term-name]/kocide-3000-fungicide
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I bought mine from them along with pots. Shipment was fast and all was perfect.
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I actually have a couple of questions.
This was my first year grafting and I grafted 10 different kinds of pears (3 euro and 7 japanese) with three grafts each for a total of 30 grafts on OHxF 97. I also grafted 20 different kinds of apples on B118 with three grafts each for a total of 60 grafts. I grafted everything on April 1 and about a week later a couple of the pears had started to break dormancy. The following week several more pears and a few apples broke dormancy. About three weeks after grafting almost everything had ‘woken up’. It appears that I have lost 1 pear and I think 2 maybe three apple grafts (not sure what happened but being my first time I guess it could be almost anything). I did a few cleft grafts but mostly whip and tongue then to seal the graft I used some green gardeners tape (not really tape in my mind as it has no adhesive) that has some stretch to it but not much. I tied most everything pretty darn tight to bring everything in to contact. I then wrapped with parafilm.
My first question is can that green tape stay on all season or should I remove it soon? I have seen varying answers to this regarding other things such as rubber bands and the like that naturally fall off during the season. I don’t see this green tape falling off on its own though. The last thing I want to do is strangle everything I grafted my first time out.
Secondly, over half of the apple grafts appear to be growing fairly vigorously with many of them having put on 10-12" or perhaps more. By comparison the pears are moving at a much slower pace having put on maybe 4-6" of growth. Is that just the difference in pears vs apples or rootstock or is that about normal?
Third, and I think last, is it ok to use some liquid fertilizer (Foliage Pro) on first year grafted trees? If so, is there a certain time after grafting for which one should wait?
I am one of those who use green garden tape to tighten up graft unions. I do the opposite to you. Once the scion is inserted into a rootstock/existing branch, I hold it tight and wrap it with parafilm first to cover all the exposed surfaces. Parafilm does not have enough strength to hold the union tightly. Then, I wrap green garden tape over the parafilmed graft union tightly.
By late summer, I am confident that my grafts take and the graft union are well-joined. I walk around and cut off the green garden tape. I don’t bother with the pararfilm. It can still hold the graft unions together and probably will fall off the next year. Leaving green garden tape too long, it will girdle the grafts.
To me, the growth of the grafts depend on the varieties you graft on as well as the of the rootstocks. I’ve both apple and pear grafts that grow vigorously and those that are not.
I don’t know about fertilizing in your situation. My first time potting up rootstocks and grafted them was last week. I’ll wait to hear from others that have experience in this area.
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Interesting. The Bonide product I use is repackaged Cueva, it says it right on the label. It is not diluted either, as both have 1.8% metallic copper equivalent. My assumption is that I need something stronger to work with my site/trees/climate, and will switch to chlorothalonil or Kocide. I will use the Bonide/Cueva up on my tomatoes and peppers, too.
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I noticed one tree has a few leaves showing it… 7 inches of rain this month so it isn’t surprising i’d see some. Overall i have seen very little.
Do purple leaf peaches/nectarines (spice zee?) get peach leaf curl?
I’d bet a hundred bucks it’s not resistant.
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Yes
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OK… I found a few purple leafed seedlings popping up and just wondered about it…t.hey must be spice zee because that is the only purple leaf i grow.
Now that I’m up to around 120 trees, it just doesn’t make sense for me to be buying those little bottles of immunox at Lowes anymore- surely there is a better way. Can anyone tell me a source where I can buy the same ingredient in immunox (myclobutanil) in bulk quantities at lower prices. Thanks.
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Eagle 40EW is what I use. The standard places that sell pesticides online should be selling it, I think I saw it at Martin’s Produce for example.
I have not used it too much and I am on the same bottle I got around ten years ago. This is for my 1/3 acre.
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Keystone is where a lot of folks here get their supplies.
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=428
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Thank you both. I have ordered from keystone before. THey no longer sell Eagle EW but I think they do have a generic equivalent. I really hadn’t thought about them for some strange reason. BTW, @scottfsmith your recommendation for using myclobutanil against black rot in my grapes was an amazing success. Even though I started it too late, all the leaves since the day I started using it look great, and all the fruit that hadn’t already been infected still hasn’t been. Amazingly, even some of the fruit that had tiny black spots on them have sort of overcome it. The spots stayed the same size while the grape got larger, and in several cases the original little black spot can be scraped off or just sort of falls off.
I had used captan up to the point of getting your recommendation, and it was no where near as effective. SO thanks. Now if I can just do something about this unbelievable breakout of brown rot on my peaches!! (at least next year). It’s devastated my already small crop (from late freeze).
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Kevin - you might want to review Alan’s advice on brown rot before ordering the myclobutanil.
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Kevin,
Myclobutanil does not work with brown rot. I wish it did. I use Indar. Others use Monterey Fungi Fighter and other chemicals.
Glad you act now. With brown rot, the longer you let it go without intervention, the worse it gets. That’s my experience.
Well now I’m confused.
Virgina Tech’s peach guide says immunox (myclobutanil) is “highly” effective against it, though says it can eventually build resistance. https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/450/450-721/450-721_pdf.pdf
Pudue university says immunox is one good thing for it: BP-45
University of Missouri also lists it to be used against peach brown rot: http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6010-7
So do many, many other sources I read recently. They all said it also should involve cultural practices (mummy removeal, clean understory, disposal of affected fruit and wood, etc) but they all list immunox/Myclobutanil as one of the best things to fight it with. Oh well.
I think several people here don’t think myclobutanil work against brown rot. Maybe @alan, @scottfsmith and others who have use myclo against brown rot can chime in.
I saw Alan’s post and always appreciate his expertise, Its just frustrating that so many universities and extension programs recommend it. So…sounds like I’m going to have to buy large amounts (because I have lot of trees) of:
Copper
Horticultural Oil
Captan
Myclobutanil
Carbaryl
Imidan
Indar (or other 4 Brown Rot)
Thats over $500 worth of stuff at the quanitities and prices I get from Keystone and I’m sure I’m leaving something out. Boy, this is getting to be an expensive hobby. I’ve spent over $3,000 for my trees, and looks like I’ll need to spend $400-$500 every year or two for sprays. For someone who doesn’t sell any fruit, that’s getting pretty costly!
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Kevin,
Don’t forget sticker like Nufilm or Tactic.
Why you need cabaryl when you use Imidan?
Can you get by with Captan and skip Myclo?