As I was about to remove a seedling tree from the back side of my orchard I noticed that the leaves look familiar to my recent addition Fuyu Omoto. I’m still not sure if the tree is an American pesimmon but I added a Fuyu graft. I’m still uncertain but the scion bud appears to be emerging.
So far this year I am getting great results, all 25 apple bench grafts are showing growth and only had to regraft one pear. Some of my rootstocks are very long, can I bury them them deep as long as the graft is 4 inches above soil line?
You should be able to bury them deeper, but from my limited understanding there is no real need to. It doesn’t hurt to have the graft up a bit higher. (Doesn’t help either, it’s just a different location)
My apples are grafted to the tree when it was just leafing out. But my pears are grafted to dormant rootstocks in pots. I kept them inside for two weeks and then put them outside.
This is a Sweet Sixteen on G.30 espalier entering it’s 4th leaf. I chopped the arms of the upper two rungs (there are 5) and cleft grafted to Reine des Reinettes. The scion was very small diameter (~3mm) and looked kind of tired, while the stock is rather large. Hope they take.
Rung below was grafted in a similar way last year to Bramley’s Seedling, which grew like gangbusters. Probably put on 40cm of growth and got like 10mm thick.
This was my strangest graft of the year. I did a lot of graphs in my second year grafting and had a piece of Golden Amber Apricot from my CRFG Scion Exchange that I just couldn’t find a home for. The one open spot was a downward growing branch on Flavor Delight Aprium that I wasn’t planning to keep. But I couldn’t bring myself to trash the scion and grafted it at a downward angle, with no idea if it could even work that way. Wow did it work. You can see the graft in the upper right. It exploded with downward growth and about six weeks ago and I pruned it at a upward facing bud (and pulled off a fruit that was growing rapidly). It has since pushed out that growth across the picture. I don’t know Apricots well, but my graphs are sure growing faster than my Aprium trees.
I was having trouble getting takes, so I grafted early this year, it’s not really warm out at all. Looks like most grafts have taken. In this area it appears the best time to graft is when everything is blooming. Even peach, too bad it took me 3 years to figure out what i was doing wrong. Waiting too long for better temps. didn’t seem to matter at all. From batting .01% to 90%. I wish I had that old wood back, I had some killer stuff, oh well. I thought my grafts were near perfect the first year, well garbage in garbage out. Great success with figs too, now to try different kinds of grafts. I almost gave up! I wasn’t going to try this year. If I waited till it’s around 80F here, well that would be about July 15th. It doesn’t ever get that warm here.
Peaches and Plums/Pluots/Apriums/Myrobalane should work generally. Some varieties are more finicky then others but Peaches and Plums are generally compatible to Apricots. St. Julien A is one of our standard rootstocks used for Apricots. Some suspect longterm compatibility issues coming with Plums as rootstock for Apricots but thats more a rumor (a like curing peach leaf curl with applications of milk thing).
My Harlayne Apricot came on Peach (Rubira) as rootstock. To save a scion I grafted E Plum onto an apricot seedling with no visible problem.
I did some bark grafting over the last two weekends and I’m pretty sure I messed up in an epic way. Which way is the long cut on the scion supposed to be facing, inside towards the center of the branch or outside towards the bark that was cut and peeled back.
I did peach trees last weekend the first way and while I was doing plums yesterday, I realized my “mistake” so I switched and inserted my plum scions with the cut side out, facing the bark. Now (after looking at some pic) I’m very confused as to which was the correct direction.
Inside towards the wood. When bark grafting the cambium layer gets separated when lifting the Bark. There is cambium at the wood and at the bark flap. Therefore you can do a second cut into the scion at the side facing the bark flap. This second cut isn’t really necessary but I do it. I do it shorter than the cut facing the wood (cambium at the wood). It sometimes fuses with the bark flap and sometimes doesn’t.
If you do it the other way around it won’t become a stable graft. Sorry for the bad news
When you did the wrong grafts yesterday, the used scions should still be in good enough condition to correct any mistake. Just shorten the limbs to make new bark grafts and do it right this time . Of course I would make new cuts to the scions as well.
Bart,
Here is a video that shows the process fairly clearly.The cuts and placement start to happen a little before the 3 minute mark. Brady https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTtXmBVsolY
Arrgh!!! Yesterday I was feeling horrible about my peaches, but figured that at least I didn’t make the same mistake with my plums!.. Crap!
I won’t be able to get out to my orchard for a couple of days at the earliest and possibly not until Saturday morning. We’re looking at rain today and partly sunny in the mid 70s and low 80s for Wed, Thurs, Fri. Do the scions have a chance to survive in that weather? They’re wrapped in parafilm.
So I grafted Lapins onto Black Gold and got this unusual tip growth. These are the 1st cherries I’ve grafted and so what has happened here? Is this normal for cherries?