I want to thank all those here who have offered instruction and encouragement.
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I have had my apple grafts on the back porch now for several weeks. It gets nice morning sun until about noon… then indirect light only the rest of the day.
They seem to be doing well… budding, shooting leafing…
What is the preferred location light wise for grafts in this stage ?
I have a nice full sun location I could move them too… if that is better.
Ps… 2 are Early McIntosh… 2 are NovaMac … on M7 rootstock.
Thanks
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A couple of W&Ts came out great. Although I almost girdled one.
One ugly W&T but functional
Cleft is still my favorite for how versatile it is
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Definitely they need full sun now! Good work
Dennis
Trev,
I will amend my comment by saying to do so gradually, giving them less shade each day, that will allow you to monitor if the additional light is affecting them, if you notice any wilting, then back to more shade. They look very good, but a lot depends on how hot it is there.
Dennis
@DennisD … thanks… I will just leave them on the back porch for now… it has warmed up here… and they do geta good dose of friendly morning sun there. Plus I can easily see them and remember to check them.
My very sunny location is very sunny… all day long. It is where I have my fig planted… all day sun and a south slope to Amp that some.
Here is what my mulberry graft looked like today 4/29/2022.
Still looking good to me.
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Do some grafts take longer? I have a couple grafts that still look “dormant”, while most all of the others have sprouted.
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I have one graft from 40 days ago that seemed to have a bud swelling today. And Ashmead’s Kernel grafted 3/17 had leaves half inch long by end of March. Your question is sort of like asking if they all get ripe at the same time or if they all bloom at the same time. There are too many variables to explain it. Sometimes it’s scions in storage too long. But, that’s not the complete answer…for even scions taken the same day, or grafted the same day still vary. Temps, humidity, …it’d be interesting to have a list of all the possible causes.
The variation can be many weeks…this is the third time I’ve done over 100 grafts. I know there’ll be a few late to the party.
If the scion is still green and moist inside, it has a chance. A small scratch of the bark can help if you can’t tell just by looking. If dried and brittle and shriveled…then it’s not going to make it.
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Any tips on a nursery bed for new grafts? Is heavy mulch a good idea? Would it hurt to plant some short cover crops next to the little trees (I’m planting cover crops all around as it’s also my vegetable beds)? It’s in a warm place with lots of direct sun so I plan to paint them for sun protection. Any other things to keep in mind?
I did 8 Korean giant on Bartlett this year with no takes. Did a couple hundred other Asian on Bartlett and probably 95% takes…haha. The Korean Giant was the only variety out of 5 that had any problems, but I guess I won’t give up.
I tried to put euro on Korean with no takes. Feel like I wasted my only two sticks of that variety.
I got Korean Giant to take on OH x F 333 benchgraft, and on a callery seedling multi-graft tree.
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My mulberry graft… looks to be doing very well. Going to have to move my bird perch up… it is growing like a weed.
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Late to the party as usual. Pulled some suckers from a couple different apple trees we have on the property and grafted some leftover scions. The trees were planted before we moved in, so I have no idea what the rootstock is, but better grafting than not at all.
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Hi Trev,
I will try to recap your process based on my perception so I can capture the very details that led to success. To overcome the expected mulberry sap bleeding you used what appears to be a good process:
- You waited until the tree was actively growing, add date please?
- You cut off the top to obtain a grafting base, and waited for a day to allow sap bleeding to subside.
- Then you performed a normal bark graft. Did you need to clean off the sap, before splitting the bark to place scions? Please describe?
- Did you seal the scions in place with electrical tape? Then the Tarp rubber band was applied to provide graft pressure.
- Did you also cut through the bark below your grafts to allow sap to continue to bleed while callousing occurred?
Please respond with edits so we can get a clear understanding of how you did it! Congrats on a very nice job! Next spring I will be doing mulberry grafts so I would like to fully understand your steps.
Dennis
Kent, wa
Today I took new pics of some of my sweet cherry top working in the process of converting my cherry trees to grow other stonefruit varieties.
Dennis
Kent, wa
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My scion tree was actually marked Olympic not Korean giant. Maybe they are not the same thing. I did a dozen grafts or more of it on summer crisp, Bartlett, and Comice and 95% took.
There is still green inside one bud, so maybe one will make it. I’m just surprised how poorly it did compared to the others, but I harvested the wood for all the other varieties, and got the Korean Giants from a couple of other sources.
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This Olympic tree of mine makes big beautiful Asian pears and has been compatible to all 3 of my European pears, so far. I’ll send you Scion next year if you would like.
Sounds great, I never give up.