If they were/are bareroot then they need to set roots and establish and in a few years your grafts will grow. Fertilize them really good next-Spring and summer to speed them along. About vigor, no, that doesn’t affect graft take.
Nice work. You did great. So many people grafting; lots of fruit growers do.
I have question to all the grafting expert, I was not able to do any grafting but have some scions
Is it too late to do graft some pears, persimmons and peaches ?
W/o writing my newest novel, the answer is to chip bud mid-August & lop the rootstock off, next-year.
That looks like an upside down morel.
They would most probably do ok if the scion buds have not begun to swell. I have not had much success keeping them in the refrigerator this late, so look at the condition of scion buds. Usually on a bud stick that has some buds breaking out, there may be one or two buds still dormant, use only the dormant buds and they should work if the scion wood is still sound. If the scions are not turgid you can soak them in cold water a few hours before grafting.
Dennis
Kent, wa
I’ve done conventional grafting with dormant apple scions in September, they leafed out and grew. Some survived the winter.
I use an5 gal bucket, and my mom thought I should get guinea hens to eat them:)! Hehehe
Follow up on my cherry plum grafted on plum rootstock.
I thought that cage might contain it and make it grow more upright… but no… it is coming out… determined to be free.
No doubt i will have to cut that cage off it in pieces.
I have 2+ more months of growing season.
That is 130 days of growth… 4 months 8 days.
Gerrardi mulberry is not a slow grower here in TN. Not when grafted to a 3 inch diameter white mulberry rootstock.
Ps… I took my tarp strap off about a month ago.
sadly again my illi everbearing scions grafted to my 4in. white mulberry still did not take… i followed your instructions and bled it 1st before grafting. it looked like it was going to take then withered. i dont get it. id did 2 perfect bark grafts. never seen a tree be so difficult to graft to its own kind. had it wrapped and sealed well. we had a cool spring so it had good conditions for healing. i guess ill try again next year. maybe 4x is the charm. 
@steveb4 … hate it Steve that your mulberry graft attempt failed again. I read a post a while back where you shared that it was not looking good.
Some folks here said that success or failure with mulberry grafting is location specific… it works well in some areas of the country… but not so well in others.
I bet if you grafted yours the exact same way… down here in the south east… it would have been a huge success.
I will have lots of gerardi scion wood this winter… if you want to try some let me know.
Not sure if they are cold hardy enough for your location.
thanks for the offer. ill have to look it up. i have a Riverview mulberry i got 2 years ago from the old Rolling river nursery that’s hardy here. i wanted to taste the fruit 1st. if it was good i was going to try to graft it. so far the tree survived hacking it to a foot from the ground. its sprouted several new branches. we’ll try again next spring. think it try Clarks cleft grafts instead of bark. he seems to have very good sucess with it. ive used clefts on its branches it the past but i think the competition from the many other branches caused the graft failures. maybe on the main trunk ill be successful. going to get this grafted before i croak!
yes. what i thought. even illni everbearing is marginally hardy to z4. why im hoping Riverview is good.
Dennis, thanks for suggesting chip budding! I was a little nervous to try it, but one of the two I did (right side) using JT-02 really took off! Really excited about this.
The foliage on the left are sprouts of Ichi Ki Kei Jiro above the graft line. Will take scions of those to graft onto a potted persimmon.
Very good
Quite often I chip bud just below any whip and tongue or cleft graft as a backup, usually I remove a root stock bud and replace it since you do not need rootstock buds competing once the graft union takes. I leave other rootstock branches and buds growing until the graft begins to grow then remove them. You need to do a weekly bud review of the rootstock below your successful grafts to assure you remove them asap.
Good luck
Dennis
As I study the foliage on the lower branch in your photo, they do not at all resemble Ichi ki kei Jiro. Below are pics of my 5 year old Ichi ki kei Jiro. First year it’s holding fruit. Their leaves are more elongated, smooth and not serrated around the edges like your foliage on the lower branch. A couple of thoughts.
