Here’s some,
This is what I use.
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I already have copper fungicide (Monterey Liquid-Cop) @jaypeedee.
From reading your previous post I was looking for a water based spray paint with copper in it.
I can easily spray the fungicide with copper, then parafilm to boot.
My persimmon W/T grafts this year.
JT02 Mikkosu
Prok
Coroa De Rei
Kassandra
Nikita’s Gift
WS8-10 Barbara’s Blush
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No. Take a little latex paint and mix some of your copper in it and paint it on cuts.
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Well there it is.
OK got it. That’s simple. I’ll try to ratio the concentrate to the volume of paint/water as though it were all water for a spray.
Thanks for the clarification. Since I’ve not done that before, it wasn’t obvious to me.
Does anyone have experience with grafting on miniature nectarines/peaches? I’m referring to the miniature varieties like Arctic Babe, Necta Zee, Garden Gold, El Dorado, Bonanza etc - the genetic dwarfs that are usually grafted onto Lovell rootstock. I would guess that grafting a normal peach/nectarine variety onto one of these trees would not fare well. But I am wondering if it’s possible to graft other genetic dwarf varieties onto one, like to graft a Bonanza scion onto an Arctic Babe tree. Anyone tried it?
I’m in NY, I normally graft my apple rootstocks end of March. Does anybody graft onto a dormant rootstock and plant directly outside? Or do most people allow the Union to heal and leaf out then harden off before bringing outside for the season?
For a couple grafts that look less stable and had significant growth, I replace the parafilm or add a thin ring of tape. A few that were mismatched in size and resulted in an offset graft, I’ve tied a splint type of branch support for one more season. After one really long graft growth that broke in a wind storm, I usually don’t allow that amount of growth unless the graft union looks especially strong with no offset or difference in alignment due to size.
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Once my scion puts out a foot of growth… i remove tape and parafilm.
I support the growth so strong winds dont over stress the graft union.
Had no problems at all with that last year… even with a persimmon bud that put out 10 ft of growth first season. Pears that grew 3 or 4 shoots 7 8 9 ft.
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Yes to outside.
Although an unheated hoop house might have slight advantages.
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even with our fastest growing trees, we would be lucky to see half that growth in a season. it takes so long for the trees to come out of dormancy here. our growing seasons from mid may to mid. Aug.
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So I’m good to graft and plant same day. I’ll try and cover them to prevent wind damage and slowly expose them but it’s won’t kill the rootstock or scion if I plant right after grafting?
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Just your normal precautions you’d use in planting a bare root tree in a pot.
Nothing more.
If you have very securely put grafting tape of some kind to hold your graft together and you have sealed it from air and rainfall…15 or 30 miles per hour breeze should not be a problem…at least not until possibly next summer and the graft has put on several feet.
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I’ll add that many folks keep their benchgrafts indoors at room temperature to help callous the graft. But, the risk of it leafing out and getting frozen if you take it outside is something to be in mind of if you try that. (Depends on if freezes are over at your grafting time I guess…I’ve grafted outdoors at 30 degrees daytime high in February and had over 3 out of 4 succeed.
(I’m talking apples & pears.)
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Me too😵💫
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@Luongo43 … a few years back…i grafted 2 scions of novamac and 2 of early mc on m7 rootstock.
I put the rootstock in 2 gal pots… filled with a homemade compost mix… and sit them on my baxk porch which gets good morning sun… but shade all afternoon.
All 4 were successful… and for the first month or so i left them in that morning sun only location and they gew well… made good progress…shoots and leaves developed a foot or more long.
I then moved them to the south side of my home… all day southern sun expossure… and l noticed as the days got hotter and the sun was on them longer… the shoots and leaves would wilt and hang down some.
They had plenty of water… but would wilt during the heat of the day… significantly.
I moved them back to the back porch… and left them there for another month. They did much better there. On very hot days they might wilt just a little on the back porch… but recovered nicely during the evening shade hours.
Eventually they stopped the wilting…had grown shoots 2 ft long… and i tried them again in my full sun south side location and they did much better there then.
I kept 1 early mc 1 novamac and gave the other 2 to a friend…
I kept them in those 2 gal pots all fall and winter… and planted them out early last spring.
They both grew very well last season… near 6 ft tall… lots of branches… even a few fruit spurs developed.
If it is mild where you live you may do ok grafting to rootstock and planting in orchard… if it warms up quickly in late spring early summer… you may have to at least temporarily provide them some hot evening shade… until they get strong enough to take that without wilting.
That was my experience here in southern TN.
Good Luck to you.
TNHunter
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Wow this is awesome thank you so much for all of this!! Def saw wilting on my grafts last year but may have been from poor drainage as they were in a bin. Def hoping to get better results this year from my failures last year.
You get better performance than I do, Trev. But, I guess I don’t do a lot of fertilizers, neglect sometimes, etc. I typically keep mine underneath trees and they get maybe one to 4 hours sun once the tree canopy gets heavy. Some get no direct sun, just speckled a little perhaps.
But, if it’s that cold next time I’ll do the benchgrafting indoors. 
(Personal comfort, not for the plant survival ratio.)
And let it get to at least 40 to add to my ‘frankentrees’.
An update and another friendly reminder: learn to bud! I “resurrected” this graft by salvaging a couple of dormant buds from the new growth from the broken pear scion and t-budding them right back onto the same callery stock. Both took, and after a few weeks I forced the topmost, which grew a couple of feet before the season ended.
Two great t-budding tutorials:
I did a number of other t-buds last summer with a high success rate. Not hard to learn, and a very useful skill to have.
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