Thanks, I would really appreciate help with this! I’ll set a reminder for myself to remember about it in winter and PM both you and @NuttingBumpus .
I originally was trying to graft on EMLA 26 and Geneva 41, would ideally love a dwarf. The old tree is very vigorous as far as growth goes but just doesn’t produce a lot anymore. It’s a big full-size tree so scions are plentiful.
Also to build up some excitements - it’s a pretty old apple-tree, likely planted in 40s - 50s. Likely Gravenstein but obviously it’s just a guess. Unlike the Gravenstein apples I tried in the grocery store, the taste of this apple was excellent and unique actually - the bite had a really interesting “milky” flesh (don’t really know hot to describe it).
More apple grafts broke buds over the last few days. I counted five more with growth. IIRC, this puts me between 55 and 60 growing grafts with several more that should open buds in the next few days. In addition, a few more persimmons are popping buds.
You still have an opportunity to Summer Bud graft in Aug of this year. You should find some tutorials on YouTube. I know Stephen Hayes did a video or two on it, but I would expect there’s something more recent out there.
As AndySmith, says, summer bud grafting is also possible a couple months from now. I’ve done it. Takes another winter to go by before you see growth from the bud, but worth doing.
Last update on my recently-grafted peaches I moved not long after the grafts started pushing. All of them are doing OK, but they are definitely growing a lot slower. If they stay going this slowly it might not end up being a big advantage to move them earlier. I am hoping they will eventually get going and some of them are in fact starting to go faster. I left a couple in the nursery and next year I will be able to compare whether move-right-after-grafts-push vs move-next-spring is better. Moving while dormant a month before grafting is definitely a bad idea, I had many graft failures trying that.
This year I pulled three suckers from my satsuma plum tree and grafted my neighbor’s apricot and a greengage plum from Maple Valley. I believe the rootstock is Marianna.
I’m not sure what my neighbor’s apricot tree is, but it blooms a month after my Moorpark and is the only Apricot tree in town that keeps fruit after spring freezes/rain because of it.
All three seem to have taken and are growing well.
My grafts are really putting on growth with
this warm May weather. I grafted these apples in late March, moved them outside in late April (shuffled them inside on cold nights).
My first batch of persimmons has me cautiously optimistic – I hot piped these for two weeks after grafting on April 12. Most of the pure Virginianas have opened a few little leaves, and I was getting concerned that none of my Kasandra would take but I woke up to see this today. Still waiting on 2x Kasandra and 1x Journey from my first batch, but the others were very large scions with z grafts so I’m not that optimistic.
I know this is a couple months old, but I had no idea pomegranate was even related to crepe myrtles, much less that they could be grafted together. Consider my mind blown.
Yeah! Although I have read on this forum that apricots in California can experience longer periods between bloom times compared to those on the east coast (or different/colder climates in general). But it’s always worth it to try and find out for yourself.
I’m doing an extreme and soil–>planter version of your experiment with quince and pear this year.
I’ve rescued some 2-year old quinces from being mowed yet again. Dug them out, put them in planters and grafted with leftover pear scions the next day. Some 6 weeks later, they are alive and the scions have pushed out new growth, but just barely (4cm with no change in the last week) compared to the rest. I’ll consider them ICU patients until next spring at best.
A peach seedling from last year that went through the same is slowly but steadily rejecting the graft ( top drying by 1-2 mm every week and not budding out).To be honest, I didn’t expect the graft to last that long.
Ahh but here’s the catch- I’m in so cal but at 6000 ft elevation with weather in spring hitting us with late frosts. Then since I’m on the dry side of the mtns we have super low humidity most the year too.
Hey all,
I was wondering what fruit trees or bushes would be best in moist soil in a slightly downward sloping field, (3-4% grade).
We dug up a bunch of holes today and some of the holes had 1-2" of water in there at the bottom of the (its been raining off n on past week).
Soil has decent amount of rocks in there too.
We can plant elsewhere but wondering if apple, pear, quince, medlar, apricot, plum, nectarines, american persimmon, pawpaw could work or anything else.
Rather than limit yourself to specific fruit types, you could always dig larger holes and a narrow drainage channel on the slope side of each hole, then;
fill the drainage channel with all new soil,
Fill the planting hole with a mix of new and existing soil, and mound the area 6-12 inches high (or more) (it will gradually sink down) above the high side of the slope
I did this with most of my trees because the yard is mostly clay and sloped.
because I’m always on the hunt for a later bloomer. 
frost/freeze gets mine nearly every year!