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I didn’t do these grafts this year, but i have a this-year question about grafting.
I grafted a gorgeous random seedling crab apple onto a very ordinary random seedling crabapple. The gorgeous one was in my neighbor’s yard, on a rock ledge, in the shade, so really scrawny. But it obviously had potential. And she gave me permission to take some cuttings.
I did a lot of grafts, of which only one really took. The twigs are very thin, making it mechanically hard to work with.
Anyhow, i have a nice healthy graft, currently in full impressive bloom. But I’d like to get rid of the rest of the tree, and let this graft take over. It’s that feasible? Any advice?
Showing the flowers
Showing that there’s one red branch, attached at an awkward angle
Showing the actual graft
Maybe a better view of the overall shape of the tree
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Save the rootstock. Try again.
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Absolutely. Should I remove the scion at some point? And let the rootstock grow/leaf out? I’ve been brushing off all the growth from the rootstocks. But, I have no idea what I’m doing.
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I grafted another dozen or so trees today. One was a Warren pear using the very last scion I had. One was Fately 5 persian walnut on a black walnut rootstock. The rest were apples on B118 rootstocks.
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I’m a relative newbie but i’ll tell you what I’d do – (1) Leave the scion, just in case; but stop removing all growth from the rootstock; let some growth happen. (2) Once there’re some choices, pick one strong shoot to be a new central leader. Let it grow. (3) If you still have some dormant scions and if the new central leader is somewhat lignified, make a new graft in June/July. Or wait until next spring.
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Cut out all but the graft and then stake it to be more upright. If there are any lanky bits left remove them. In a few years it will look like a normal tree.
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The same almond, but a few days later. I removed the parafilm and before putting back, took some pics. I budded two chips, and a crown graft (not shown).
Peach grafts on peach X almond hybrid (a commercial rootstock called GxN Garnem) didn’t take… I’m going fertilize the rootstocks with aminoacids to give them a boost and try again in two weeks. I suspect a lack of vigour might have been the culprit. I had used bigger rootstocks in the past and was successful, but now I’m using tiny ones due to a lack of space, and maybe they need more help/care in such instances
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For reference, here’s the parent tree. It’s doing a lot better than i expected.
That dead branch in front was a little oak.
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Much better! I would prune back those super lanky branches a bunch, or tie them more upright to make scaffolds. You could wait until winter to prune, to give it some time to recover from the loss of most of the limbs. It may also grow back some upright shoots on its own.
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My first time trying a modified whip and tongue graft. Scion was about half the diameter of the stock. Varaha mulberry on Not-Gerardi stock.
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Which graft is best for larger scion, significantly smaller rootstock?
This is the way.
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How significantly smaller?
@Heath … modified cleft and whip/tounge work well when scion is half the size of rootstock as long as you line up one side good.
You would think they would also work if the scion was 2x size of rootstock… as long as one side is lined up good.
Good luck with that and be sure and let us know how it goes.
Just noticed today that a modified cleft graft of trailman crab… to my novamac B9 espellar… has come out and bloomed.
That is a first for me with apples.
TNHunter
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If I don’t count my feijoa I’m at 100% for all grafts this year. If I only count feijoa I’m at 0% for the year haha and 1% all time.
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