I think the final tally is that 90% of my Asian pear grafts took, 50% of my euro pear did, and 0% of my nectarine and peach (too early and cold I think). For a first try I’ll take it!
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Decided to unravel 2 Argelino and a Shambala a little bit so that they’re not putting too much energy into pushing through. The shambala is already starting to size up to the point where it was cracking the entire parafilm all along the scion.
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What is the yellow stuff from the gelato jar?
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Doc Farwell’s grafting seal that I put in there maybe 10 years ago and is still good.
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Happy to see all 9/9 pawpaw grafts I did at my parents took. Most are growing vigorously, one is just barely breaking through but it was lower on the tree so thats to be expected.
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@Eugeneb I agree with Dennis. I’d add that after seeing photos here, I started wrapping entire scion and graft with parafilm. Keeps them from drying out in our Colorado climate. And makes taking the electrical tape off easy. In the past, sometimes some young bark around the grafts came off with the tape.
A good graft is quite strong after 6-8 weeks. If a graft seems weak (not much of a shoot) then I wait longer.
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@Eugeneb I’d leave it wrapped a bit longer- you have leaves, but no shoot yet. On my G935 rootstock I have 6-8” shoots on grafts 5 weeks old. G214 done at same time are still mostly leaf bunches (like yours). So take some extra time- they are not as vigorous, so chance of girdling is low. Last season, I unwrapped them all by July 4.
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Thanks, I’ll keep it for another month or two then! And yeah, I’ll definitely remove it for winter - I am in Seattle and the odds that it would rot over winter are infinitely larger than it drying out.
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Today while reviewing my plum grafts to assure that I had removed tapes and splinted those very aggressive growers, I spotted a Flavor King graft from last August that still had its tape on the graft union. It was a windless morning so I carefully removed the tape and splinted it for bird lightings since it was on the tip of another limb. I noted only a slight graft union girdling but my splint should secure it until it bears fruit, then I will replace with a stronger one.
Of all my graft losses I would say girdling is my most common reason. Grafting follow-up is essential to complete the task!
Dennis
Kent, Wa
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I decided to unwrap my 8wk grafts since they all have descent shoots. Just to see. What is this?
Also to note, I had used the crappy plastic wrap that came with my knife…I did have to cut at all the buds. The few buds I didn’t cut free, all turned black and rotted. I now have buddy tape for all future grafting!
And, then there was this- the crappy plastic wrap was strangling the top of this scion.
I put lightly wrapped electrical tape back over all the graft junctions except the weird brown growth one. Don’t know if that was the right or wrong thing to do. I’ll take it off in another month?
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I wouldn’t be able to publish to the world I had another purpose for chocolate peanut butter gelato if my wife ever visited this site…
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White is the callus tissue
Nicely done!
nice gift
Pictures one and two, the Adara is the 1-2 inch old limb? In pic 2 it looks different, just wanting to be sure. Wondering about the compatibility of Adara to cherry as rootstock. No incompatibility issues.
Also how are the mulberries you root grafted doing?
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Yup, I got that. But, it’s the weird brown mushroom-like button there on the rootstock side that’s odd.
The graft looks great. Just be careful with it – it’s more frail than it looks. A stiff breeze could break it, forever. A bird landing on it could break it. Personally I would re-wrap with something and also definitely stake it. Use the stake to limit bending in the wind. Also, use a stake taller than the scion so that a bird looking for a perch will pick the stake rather than your tree.
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I use highly flexible electrical tape for the specific reason that I can leave it on the graft until fall. I don’t normally remove graft coverings until the plant goes dormant for winter.
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