2025 winter and summer squash!

Totally a volunteer gourd and super prolific! Basically, the only thing that is actively growing a million squash right now.

Thai kang kob is finally starting to produce.it made female flowers first and this one got pollinated by no-idea-what since I don’t have any other c moschata growing. I’m growing this because it’s my favorite winter squash. The taste is just delicate and sweet and delicious, but the seed packet said “space saving vines that grow about 6 feet”. This is a total farce. The vines are already easily 10-20’. No squash borer. I’ve already ordered every c moschata Annie’s sells! Not sure why I was bothering with anything else the last few years.

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I’ve got only a few winter squash producing so far and no summer squash. it got very hot overnight so all male flowers on the summer squash.

I’ve gotten a few tromboncino, but they were pollinated right before the heat came. there’s very few insects to pollinate when it’s this hot. I’ve had to water a lot more than I’d like.



edit to add photos. some kind of hybrid candy roaster/banana squash. summer squash barren or male only. even the tromboncino right now. been in the 90s off and on since end of June.

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Interesting note about the heat. The hybrid is pretty! I’m rather irritated with my slow going pumpkin patch/winter squash this year. My volunteer yellow/green gourd is the only thing going bananas. That’s what I get for direct sowing at the time I planted 6wk old seedlings last year.

Just put everything pollinated on lockdown after the raccoon incident. I have another mystery squash: I swear I sowed jarrahdale where this came up, but I pulled the weakest links, and it’s possible I pulled them all, and this is a volunteer. It has the shape of a warty, oval-ish pumpkin we got from a farm…

My highly anticipated Thai kang kob is struggling to produce. The vines are huge in my front and backyard, yet there is only a single pollinated pumpkin. Most are aborting very early.

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yep mine aren’t getting pollinated and are falling off yellow or brown on a lot of things. there’s definitely less pollinator than usual and the bees arrived late and lonesome this year.

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I wonder why the drop in pollinators for you? Is it really just the temp?

My Thai kang kobs mostly aren’t making it to mature female flower. They’re aborting while very little. I’m going to give them some 5-10-5 tomorrow and see if it helps. Luckily, we are seeing a lot of pollinators and the squash that make it to open flowers are getting pollinated.

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I don’t think we’re permitted to discuss climate change, biosphere collapse, and related topics on this forum. science is political these days.

but it’s not just my yard, it’s more widespread.

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Punkins!

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Mystery solved. Our second volunteer IS a warty thing we got from a farm. This and the wildly productive, volunteer, farm, hooked yellow/green gourd have taken over half of my front yard patch! Oh well…the kids are thrilled. Every pollinated thing is getting a cage. Not messing around the the deer/wildlife and broken dreams this year!

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that is real pretty, i love the bumpy ones so much.



summer squash finally beginning. i direct sowed most of those this year, won’t that do that again. they’re so late.
“mashed potatoes” , a white acorn, finally has some female flowers forming. the vine area is taking off and we had squash blossoms for breakfast (stuffed with eggs+ricotta+oregano)

tromboncino have become rampicante now that we got a few days under 95F



winter melon are taking a walk onto my potting table.

rouge vit detampfs two going, another vine has a few, and theres a mystery buddy on one





i wish my patty pans would pan. meantime I’ve kept my eye on the candy roaster.

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Second Seminole Pumpkin off my vine. Probably going to be starting acorn squash again soon for late summer into fall, and maybe zucchini when it cools off a little.

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It’s so wild to see pumpkins harvested already. Those are beautiful. I haven’t had a Seminole in awhile, but I remember it as sweet and good for baking. What will you do with it?

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Pumpkin pie is the current plan, but I might just bake it with a little brown sugar and eat the slices as a dessert. They are really sweet, great for pies or cookies.

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I seeded green acorn squash. A yummy one from grocery store. I’ve waited for many to get pollinated, but they are definitively not green. Either a mutant seed or yet another case of me pulling my intentional seedlings bc a volunteer in disguise right next to them was stronger. I think this is why planting strong seedlings works out better for me. Oh well. It’s productive. Hopefully, it tastes good.

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I finally got my hands on some
Shishigatani seeds and if the weather holds I should be able to get a harvest. One seedling right now and maybe five more sprouting seeds I put in dirt after using the paper towel method.
I am hopeful!

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My “Crown Prince” pumpkins, grown from saved seed (second generation), are now yellow instead of green. :person_shrugging: Is it possible your acorn squash is an F1 hybrid as well, so the offspring is quite variable?
Guess it’ll still taste good! :smiley:

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Oh interesting! Very possible. I have not read much/understand about seed genetics.

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Just because it’s fun and I’m a teacher (assistant prof in stats) and a kind-of-biologist, I’ll do an attempt at explaining F1 hybrids:

Genetic material (DNA) is organised in chromosomes, really big molecules that we have in every cell. Squash plants, like humans, have two sets of chromosomes. That’s one full set from the father and one full set from the mother. (For acorn squash 20+20=40, for humans 23+23=46.)

In F1 hybrids, the father and mother are bred to be special: they are really strongly inbred. That’s something you get when you keep crossing plants to themselves, their own offspring, or brothers/sisters. The result of of this, is that the two sets of chromosomes of an individual become almost identical.

Genetics is often explained with letters that show common variations in DNA. We call those alleles. Let’s do a very small example, with only 5 alleles. Differences are shown by using capital or small letters. A normal individual could look like this:

AA
bB
cC           ← just some random individual
Dd
ee

That individual had two different alleles for positions b, c and d. But for a and e they had two copies of the same allele (AA and ee, respectively).

Now, let’s go back to the inbred father and mother. If we make inbred individuals, those look special. For example, they could look like this:

AA
BB
cc           ← parent 1 (mother)
DD
ee

… and …

aa
bb
CC           ← parent 2 (father)
dd
EE

We can see that they are inbred, because they have the same two copies of each allele.

What happens if we cross those two inbred individuals? Their children are called F1 (the first generation). All children will look exactly the same, because they will get one letter from one parent and one from the other. So we will always get:

Aa
Bb
cC           ← F1 individual (any)
Dd
eE

… for all the children!

This has two advantages. First, all the children are genetically identical, so we know exactly what to expect from our plants. However, that was also true for the inbred father and mother, if we had just used one of those lines. But this is where the second advantage comes in: the F1 children have two different alleles for a lot of different positions. It turns out that this often gives bigger, stronger plants and larger fruits. You can think of it as having lots of backup genes: if one is somehow broken, there’s a different copy/allele on the other chromosome. For the same reason, inbreeding is problematic in humans and many other animals and plants.

But I digress. There’s actually a third “advantage” of making these F1 hybrids, which is that their breeding is often controlled by commercial seed producers. Growers need to buy their seed every year and can’t save their own and expect to get reliable results. We can see that when we try to cross one of those F1 individuals with itself (or a brother/sister, which is the same). Those could turn out to be anything! For example:

AA
bB
cC           ← a random F2 individual
Dd
ee

… or …

aA
bb
CC           ← another random F2 individual
dD
EE

What this means in practice, is that F1 seeds will always give you the same results, but when you save their seeds (usually crossed with themselves), you get a mix of traits of their original parents (“in the F2”). So your acorn squash and my pumpkin now suddenly have a different colour. It doesn’t mean they’ll be bad, but just unpredictable.

OK, that was a very long post, don’t know it it helps anyone, but I had fun typing it! :smiley:

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Butterbush butternut sprawling out under my poblano peppers. This variety is said to be more of a bush type, but I find it runners anywhere from 6-10 feet, usually with a bunch of branches off the main stem. Still, it is nicely controlled compared to many C. moschata that will take over the garden if you let them. Fruits are 1.5-2 pounds, which is a good size for a couple to share and still get some leftovers. Very good taste and medium keeper. I usually get 4-5 squash per vine. They are earlier than a lot of the big butternuts.


Originally developed by Burpee’s sometime last century and sold a few places now, my seed is from Southern Exposure. It would be interesting to get seed from Burpee next year or another vendor just to see how much they vary, if at all.

While taste is excellent (probably better than most other open-pollinated butternuts), my favorite C. moschata types are the F1 hybrids Autumn Frost and Butterscotch. I would probably just grow Butterscotch since it is a smaller size and I think has the best flavor of all, but like many small butternuts, it doesn’t keep as long. I still have an Autumn Frost from last year on the shelf, so that one is my long keeper.

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Great explanation!!! Very helpful as well moving forward and thinking about things I grow from grocery store produce.

Seminole Pumpkin, highly prolific. This is our third of the year. Four more are on the way. All from one vine.

We roasted one, very sweet. Would recommend.

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