It is very subjective., Citrus are chemical factories with so many flavors that originate from particular lineages. The flavor of a fruit could differ because fruit A has α-Pinene and fruit B has (neg)α-Pinene . (neg)α-Pinene is common in European Pine and (pos)α-Pinene is common America Pine. That difference in flavor might make one fruit more appealing to one market then another. α-Pinene is also present in rosemary which might explain why lemon and rosemary pare well togather. β-pinene is common in hops and cannabis, coriander is rich in α-Pinene. the combination could explain why summer wheat beers which are seasoned with coriander and citrus peal paired with Orange and taste so good. But what if you used Kaffir lime which is rich in β-pinene, could be great could be terrible, I dont know just theories.
To continue with my brewing analogy, you do not brew with juice. I would want a Citrus with my favorite flavor component concentrated in the peel or leaf. So that means you want citron heritage crossed with something else. Say I am going for that β-pinene that means crossing Citron (Citrus Medica) with Citrus Papeda (kaffir,kabose, sudachi, shikwasa, yuzu) and hoping you find a hybrid that produces β-pinene not α-Pinene and also does not produce neoeriocitrin the primary flavor in bergamot ie Earl Gray Tea. Finally when my beer is served you want it to be with the citrus juice that complements it. So that means when you brew you want less of the flavor components that are common in retail lemons and limes so when combined it enhances your product. There has to be at least 2 dozen major and many more minor flavor components and other chemical in citrus that create the all the complex tastes.
ps: the pepeda citrus you mention just there juice as they ripen so you have to pick them “green” in to get any juice.
Commercially whats important ripening time, storage hardiness, percentage of juice, easy to peel.
so at the end of the day what makes a good citrus is either what you like, what you can sell or what you can grow.