It’s that the Leningrad chimera or something else? I bought the Trifoliate Satsuma that Madison Citrus Nursery has, which I believe is also a chimera (grows like one, which is to say it barely grows). Not sure which one it would be though, other than not Prague (I do have it on good authority theirs is not Prague).
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When did you plant it?
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I am not sure which one that is, but I got this one from CCPP early last year. Here’s the profile for the accession, which does say it was from Leningrad:
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Current growth of a zygotic Dunstan seedling with highly variable leaf forms.
And some zygotic US-852 seedlings with bizarre leaves.
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So I had a satsuma mandarin grafted onto C35 rootstock. The mandarin died above the graft but the C35 sprouted. I’m thinking of planting it outside as a landscape tree, but am unable to find any information anywhere about cold hardiness. Is it as hardy (or hardier) than a true poncirus
e: Seeds says hardy to 0 degrees, I guess, which is probably not hardy enough for where I hope to plant…
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C35 is not as hardy as true poncirus. It would probably not do well in 6b.
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I have the satsuma x tri and I think the original Prague tree that I got from a citrus contact in Gerrmany many years ago. I have two fruits on the satsuma x tri and practically nothing on the Prague. The Prague is a very skinny, wiry looking plant with branches that have little foliage. I have a branch on my Prague that has reverted back to a very robust looking trifoliate foliage. It is not a rootstock but is attached to a true Prague branch and it has two fruits on it. It will be interesting to sample them once they are ripe. I hear from my friend Hershell Boyd of Madison Citrus Nursery that the Sat X Tri fruit is not very appealing. I will be having a fruit tasting once the fruits of the two varieties are ripe. Tune in later for a full report!
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Good to know.
I am very curious if the satsuma x trifoliate is really a chimera or if it’s a hybrid.
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I would think a hybrid.
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cold hardy to me means surviving a USDA zone 5b so citrus wont like Indiana.
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Yeah and I was hoping to plant in 5b. Which should support true poncirus but perhaps not C35.
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Late April, I think.
John S
PDX OR
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Good afternoon,
I posted this on the PNW regional category but no one responded. So will try hereGood afternoon,
Couple of quick questions.
My local nursery (less than 10 minutes from my house) is selling Changshou Kumquat Trees and also Sudachi Yuzu gallon pots for 29 dollars.
Is Changsou the same as Fukushu? I think so but want to verify.
Will both survive in ground after protecting them for a few years with a frost blanket structure over them. I live in Port Orchard Wa for reference. The Kumquat could probably be planted near my house but not the other.
Thank you,
Gary.
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Changshou kumquat | Givaudan Citrus Variety Collection at UCR They’re the same according to UCR. The nursery sounds a little confused though.
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Sudachi will survive with minimal/no protection, even when relatively young, in the PNW. I have one close to my house (in Victoria, BC) but I do nothing to cover it, and it’s been in the ground 3 years and withstood -11C (it was 1gal pot size when I bought it) this last winter and it’s got a bunch of fruit on it. Similarly, I had it’s related Yuzu when I lived in Portland completely out in the open, it was already a bit more mature, and it did lose leaves one winter but still bounced back and produced fruit. Depending when you wanna harvest (green or orange), October through December is the time to pick, which works well for our light frosts through that time period.
Kumquat I have less experience with. I just bought a Nordmann kumquat this year, and the impression I’m under is that I will always have to cover it because the fruit ripens later, well into our deep freeze season of late December through early February, so the fruit needs to stay protected while it ripens. Maybe someone else will educate us both and tell us something different but that’s the impression I’m under.
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I’ve seen sudachi in a 10 gallon pot size die after being left unprotected over winter just south of Seattle. I suspect you’re benefiting from a buffering affect being close to the water.
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Well, I don’t know what temperature the sudachi you reference experienced, but mine survived through -11C/12F (and remaining below freezing for another couple days) confirmed by my weather station just feet away, and likely similar temperatures according to the official records in the two winters prior (I didn’t have a weather station those years, and microclimates are highly variable in my area). One difference you’ve highlighted is that mine are in-ground, just as my yuzu was in Portland which was even more out in the open. I would assume that even though they are on hardy rootstock, that roots being exposed to those temperatures are going to hit harder than just the canopy being exposed, as I’ve personally experienced in olives and figs in containers vs in-ground (where they faired much worse in pots than in the ground over a harsh winter).
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Update on earlier post up above. I did buy the Changsou/Fukushu Kumquat but not the Sudachi. I am now looking into Ichang lemon which I think will need some protection but not sure. I see most sell them on their own roots and not grafted. I was wondering if you can get more cold hardy by a grafted Ichang and what rootstock would work best if so?
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I wouldn’t go for grafted with Ichang Lemon. Or any of the marginally zone 8 hardy citrus. At some point, it’s likely that plant will get frozen back, possibly to the lower them or even to the ground. If/when that happens, you’re going to want the original plant coming back, not some nasty rootstock.
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