Yeah I’m not a fan of foliar feeding. Getting my plants wet here is never a good thing. Before we did this how did plants eat? It’s very unnatural to me.
The so called other plants in most cases would never grow there on it’s own. The weeds are much more natural. It you make a garden unfavorable to natural weeds, it can’t be good for other plants either. So yes, you’re correct.
Not really, the soil is just fine for the weeds, the grass is the problem! We were talking soil here, not plants that prevent weeds. The best way to keep weeds out of grass is to keep it at 2.5 to 3 inches. Many weed seeds need light to germinate. Tall thick grass prevents light from reaching the soil level, so the seeds rot.
I like being as organic as possible and their is a lot of evidence that maintaining good bacteria stops bad ones. The problem I have is pests are just as natural as anything else. This seems to always be lost. Japanese beetles are going on billions, not millions of years old. They are still here for a reason. Mother nature does not see pests as pests. Just another species trying to survive on what mother nature provides.
Seems to me long term solutions to pests will be found in genetic engineering.
Also for those saying how pest free your orchards and gardens are. Remember it takes 5 years for all pests to find your place, If the 6th year you still are pest free, then we have something. Until 5 years old pest free orchards or gardens tell us nothing at all.
I thought this was a bunch of bull with an S and a hit. Then my 5th year came.
In my neck of the woods, soil that is not disturbed or compacted will not produce most weeds. The native grasses take hold. If I mulch with slow composting in mind, the weeds almost completely disappear.
There are a few small ones that pop out this time of year, but it’s a night and day difference after 2-3 years. Besides, most people refer to them as wildflowers anyway, so no big deal. 
They do recommend fall feeding to help grass compete against weeds, but not spring feeding.
I’d like to revive this topic and see more people like @Richard comment about the approach of Biological farming Gary Zimmer / John Kempf and AEA.
Can people try to summarize what is useful and how to apply it, what is true or wrong?
What I Understand is that the approach is to start testing soil or sap, adding minerals (calcium, phosphorus, boron and sulfur.) and foliar feeding, also adding inoculants.
@DroppingFruit
I agree with some of what is claimed – as will most horticultural textbooks. I’ve yet to see any truly peer-reviewed research backing all the claims. Many of the commercial production nurseries I’m familiar with provide their plants with better nutrition than his recommendations/products – albeit via fertigation and tailored formulas. Further, better formulations are available at the consumer level for less cost per pound of nutrition. It all depends on how much effort a gardener wants to put into plant care and research outside of popular/social media.