Apple Grafting New York

This is my go to method. First wrap the graft in buddy tape to hold and water proof, then reinforce with a rubber grafting strip over the top. If put over the top, the blue rubber grafting strips degrade in the sun and don’t need to be cut off in my experience.

As for what I store my bench grafts in for callousing/ waiting for the ground to thaw - I just use moist pine shavings to cover the roots in a large tub. No soil necessary. Just keep it moist, the shavings have good airflow and don’t mold. Hold the room at 50ish degrees for apple and pear (I’m going to shoot for 55 this year to try and help out my plums a bit more) and plant out once the ground is workable. Good takes with apple pear and plum using these methods.


If you decide to graft outside this info is helpful:
I’ve grafted during many different months successfully but consider optimum callusing temperatures to ensure a good percentage of viable grafts.
Nectarines/Peaches – 18-26 deg C. ( 64.4 to 78.8F)
Apricots/Cherries – 20 deg C. ( 68F)
Plums – 16 deg C. ( 60.8 F)
Apples/Pears – 13-18 deg C. ( 55.4 to 64.4F)
Walnuts – 27 deg C. (80.6 F)
Grapes – 21-24 deg C. ( 69.8 to 75.2 F).


How do I know the difference when the scion starts to break dormancy of a scion that took compared to just stored energy leafing out?

Check the union and the exposing cut for callus. If you see callus then it’s healing.

you know it when the scion starts growing.

Best not to disturb graft union or unwrap to check. Does more damage than good.

If your summer grafting, you leave the leaf petiole to the scion or bud. Graft it, and once the petiole drops off at a light touch you know the graft took. This is only for summer grafting (mostly budding) though.(not with dormant graft wood)