Ok, Sounds like that’s what happened, thanks for the confirmation. I think I also lost a mature Kiwi vine last year from that tiny bit of mist you’re talking about. I was very careful, but it’s the most likely explanation. This is one of the reasons I’ve switched to trying landscape fabric around all my trees this year.
Well dang it!! Quick and hard pop shower for 10 minutes and I hope my spraying from 11-2PM isn’t for not!! Pop up shower came at 330PM so everything had a minimum of 1.5 hours to dry. It was hot today too and only 30% chance for that pop up shower. It was 80 degrees and it looked like the spray was drying quickly and absorbed by the weeds/grass. All it takes is for it to dry right? Dry into the plant and any rain after that doesn’t matter…hopefully. What do you all think? Repeat in 3-4 weeks?
10 minute shower more than an hour after spraying gly on a warm day shouldn’t be a problem. Assuming the gly sprayed also had an added quality surfactant anyway.
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Thank you!! Hope so!!
Are you referring to the “liquid dawn” I added in the mixture or another surfactant added in by the manufacturer of Glystar Pro?
The Glystar Plus shows a 14% surfactant added but the Glystar Pro (the one I used) apparently doesn’t have any added surfactant so I added 2 ounces of Dawn liquid detergent per gallon.
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Dawn is better than nothing, but it is always best to add a real surfactant designed to be added to gly. I’ve made the mistake of buying straight gly before (great price, probably due to not having a surfactant), I almost always have some type of surfactant around to use with other herbicides so I just used what I had.
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This may shed some light on another mystery: Two of my grapevines are severely stunted, and one appears dead. More information here:
These vines were exceedingly vigorous the first two years. Initially I thought the sharp decline was due solely to mole damage and the weakened root systems allowing pests and diseases to take hold. However, I recall spraying concentrated dollar store glysophate around the base of the grapes the same time as the Peachtree mentioned above. In both cases, there were no roots visible on the surface, broken or otherwise. But there were surely broken roots under the surface in the mole tunnels. Is it possible the glyso could have leaked through the soil and been absorbed into the roots that way?
I think it’s possible. I wouldn’t want to give the impression glyphosate shouldn’t be used around trees. I sprayed (with a wand) glyphosate from the tractor seat to clean up some weeds a few weeks ago around some peach trees. I’m just very careful when it comes to young trees not to let them get any mist.
If I’m using a pump-up sprayer, may times I will stand between the little tree and the wand to further shield the tree from mist. Stuff super close to the young tree, I pull by hand.
You’ve mentioned mole tunnels. Maybe this has already been addressed in this thread (it’s so long I haven’t re-read it) but are you certain it’s not voles? Voles will eat the roots of the trees and kill them.
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I believe they are moles and the roots are collateral damage. Here’s The only one I caught. There are more in there:
Regarding the glyso concentrate, I just used it with a small hand sprayer and tried to be careful. I don’t know what kind of sticker it has in it, if anything, as it was very cheap. If I recall correctly it recommended to use it at 4x dilution. I used it straight.
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Rain that came an hour or so after I sprayed last Sunday appears to have not hindered my spraying effectiveness a bit. After just 4 days the grass/weeds are wilted and yellow. Looks like I a good kill and will save a ton of time this year not having to mow around each tree.
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Here in the States, most concentrate glyphosate mixes are 41% active ingredient. With that concentrate, the strongest mix for a pump up sprayer would be about 2% of the concentrate. Or a 1 to 50 dilution rate.
If the concentrate you are using is weaker, it still pretty strong to use it straight. Given that you used it straight, it sounds like that’s what killed the tree. I’m sure the margin of error is much smaller to use the concentrate without dilution.
TSC has it on sale.
Compare-N-Save Grass & Weed Killer Concentrate, 41% Glyphosate, 1 gal.
Compare-N-Save Grass & Weed Killer Concentrate, 41% Glyphosate, 1 gal.
Qty: 1
$14.99 Was $24.99 Save $10.00
SKU#1013655
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The spots that I sprayed with mix from concentrate now have an infestation of moss and acid loving weeds that I rarely see. I guess I should be checking and adjusting the pH after mixing? What is the best way to lower the pH?
I’ve used that. It does fine.
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I use citric acid to lower the pH. Glyphosate is subject to alkaline hydrolysis, so lower the pH for that reason.
Glyphosate is also subject to react/bind to any cations in the spray tank water. There are articles all over the internet about conditioning the spray water with ammonium sulfate before the glyphosate concentrate is added. However, there was also some research posted on this forum, which suggested that concern was overblown.
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The moss is due to its due to being affected by roundup, its perfectly OK does not affect the soil pH so do not worry about it. It takes the place of the weeds you killed.
Eric
Besides the three grapevines being damaged, one of my peach trees appears to not be sprouting at all. Do trees damaged by glyso “grow out of it “ in future seasons, or is this damage permanent?
I couldn’t find close subject search on the topic I am going to ask about and This one is close so if it’s OK I am going to ask a question in this thread. Mods. please feel free to move it if it’s out of category. Anyway, We have had the first multiple days of rain this year and up to this point I have mostly only had water on my garden with my drip irrigation so the weeds haven’t been very bad. Well…I’ve been gone 4 days and it’s rained every day and my garden is FULL of weeds and grass…I can pull the ones in the plants but there are a TON others…Can anyone say if it’s OK to spray in between the rows with Glysophate?
Dutch,
I don’t have garden rows per se, but I do have tomatoes, which are very sensitive to glyphosate. I do spray around the tomatoes, but do so only when there is no wind and use a very coarse spray with the pump up, and keep the wand very close to the weeds I want to kill. If weeds are really close to tomatoes, I actually dribble a little bit of the spray on those weeds to make sure no mist or droplets get on the tomatoes.
I think you can take care of the weeds between the rows, if you’ve gotten behind, but just make sure there is no wind, use low pressure on the pump up sprayer, and keep the wand very close to the ground. Be on the lookout for any spray mist or splash up.
If we are doing delicate spraying like that, many times we will keep a 5 gal. bucket of fresh water handy, and if we think we’ve gotten some glyphosate mist on a plant/tree, we immediately douse it with the fresh water. When we do that, we’ve never seen any negative side effects of the glyphosate.
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@dutch-s Here is a pic I took yesterday. This is 10 days after I sprayed Glystar Pro in between my blueberry rows. I was just very careful and held my backpack sprayer wand close to the ground to prevent drift.
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