Are all glysophate herbicides basically the same?


Here’s your answer: “Product Description:
This product is a postemergent, systemic herbicide with no soil residual activity.”

That means unless you directly spray it on your vegetables, glyphosate will not contaminate your food.

I read that on the label for Crop Smart 41% within the first couple of pages.

And here are specific time periods for garden consumptiont:
Corn: “RESTRICTIONS: Allow a minimum of 7 days between application and harvest.”
Beans/Legumes : : Apply at least 14 days before harvest
Asparagus: Do not harvest within 5 days of treatment
Stone Fruits: : Allow a minimum of 17 days between last application and harvest in stone fruit crops
Tree Nuts: Allow a minimum of 3 days between last application and harvest of tree nuts, except coconut. Allow 14 days between application and harvest in coconut.
Vine crops Grapes (raisin, table, wine), Hops, Kiwi, Passion fruit: 14 days.

This list could go on and on. So vegetables in the garden you’re safe at 14 days.



All right thanks. I was thinking maybe one of the additives would change its properties. For example, I heard one of the additives in Roundup other than Glysophate kills aquatic life.
And I don’t understand the different restrictions for different fruit. How can you use Roundup on your fruit trees without killing them?


You spray for weed control on the ground. For instance, I do large circles around all my woody plants. Keeps the weeds away, keeps everything looking clean, etc.

I don’t know anything about that. Just so that you always follow the label, yeah?

My own first statement: “Product Description:
This product is a postemergent, systemic herbicide with no soil residual activity.”

I cannot explain why there are various day windows for different plants from others. If the product isn’t absorbed within the roots, then I can’t explain it, either.



So yes it is ok to use glysophate around the base of fruit trees? I have a lot of vine and weed problems out here and am concerned the vines will choke my trees and blackberries and I have to pull weeds every couple days. Seems it also attracts giant fire ant mounds around my trees when I leave weeds.


There’s an establishment period. You should read the label. I think it’s either 2-years or 3-years prior to spraying glyphosate around the perimeter of woody plants.



It actually says one year. The trees have been in the ground 5 months and they were 3-4 feet tall and had been pruned at least once when I bought them so I was expect they are at least a year old. It’s become such a problem with all the rain we have had I think I’m going to do a light ring about 3 feet all the way round the trees. I’m afraid to spray the ants. They are very prominent here and they get every damn one of my ripe figs. I where rubber boots and kick the mounds as far as I can then crush all the eggs with my boot as best I can…


BTW. I really appreciate your help. This has been a real thorn in my side…


i use the spray the same. no weed whacking for me and hasn’t hurt my plants/ trees a bit.


drench their mounds with neem oil. :wink:


Today I sprayed a solution of 3 ounces of Glystar Pro per gallon of water around all my fruit trees. A bit late this year but still want to see the results. So sick of trimming around all my trees. Hopefully I can do this next spring as well and get some results that last throughout growing season.


Hopefully you sprayed it around the fruit trees and not on all of them.


I read some research that suggested Glysophate sprayed around apple or peach trees late in the season can cause problems, so I moved to Glusofinate.

Its not systemic and if you get a little spray on the root suckers or the trunk, it will not damage the tree. I believe the trees need to be at least 2 years old to safely use the product

“Apple trees are especially sensitive to
glyphosate applied in late summer and fall.
Avoid contacting tree bark and especially foliage”


From what I’ve heard, it could be taken up by the roots if it did not bond so quickly to calcium and magnesium ions in the soil, which inactivate it. For weeds that have a high calcium content in their leaves adding ammonium sulfate to the mix is supposed to help.

My guess is that they advise to not use it around young trees because of the added overspray risks (leaves are closer to the ground).

All trees are more vulnerable late in the season because energy is being stored in the roots for winter. It is systemic, but not always transported downward to the root.


Yep. Meant to say around the trees not on them. Lol


I first learned about the potential for Roundup damage on Apple trees a few years ago so I reduced my use.

No Roundup after June is the suggestion from the Apple Orchard Management Guide for the South East:

“Glyphosate Sensitivity
Glyphosate is a very effective weed management tool because
it controls such an array of annual and perennial weeds. In
recent years concern has developed regarding tree health and
the relationship with multiple glyphosate applications during
the year. There is a potential for a buildup of sublethal levels
of glyphosate in perennial crops like apple trees. Symptoms are
very subtle and include reduced tree vigor, reduced yield,
cankers at the base of trees, and weak graft unions. As a
precaution it is recommended that glyphosate be used no more
than twice per season and glyphosate should not be applied
later than June. If possible a single application of glyphosate
would be best. As an alternative, glufosinate is very effective
on perennial weeds and of course paraquat is an option as well.”


The active ingredient may be the same, but different formulations can be very, very different. For instance, if you are very close to water there are aquatic formulations that reduce toxicity to non-target organisms. As said above, always read (and stick to) the label!


I sprayed the ground around everything I have, peach, apple, pear, fig, and nut trees. I was very careful just to spray the ground. All grass and weeds are dead and the trees all seem to be just fine. It’s really hard controlling the weeds out here so I used the same glysophate mix I use on my fence lines every year. All seems fine. I sprayed 3 weeks ago…mine are all just put in the ground this year.


I agree w/ avoiding the use of glyphosate in late season. The caveat for me is means of delivering the spray. With a careful spray from a pump up sprayer, I don’t think timing comes in to play at all.

Where I’ve had issues of drift on trees is from using a small boom sprayer, or a power wand sprayer. They allow a lot more drift and result in problems with glyphosate. A hand pump sprayer is pretty safe and doesn’t allow drift, unless one is very careless.

That said, I emphasize care w/ a pump sprayer. One year we killed about 40 peach seedlings from sloppy spraying with a pump sprayer.


Absolutely. I use a little 2 gallon pump sprayer and am very aware of any wind. I keep the sprayer tip almost touching the ground even when walking from tree to tree. I haven’t seen any ill effects at all. Being that they are all young seems to me with the PROPER administering of the spray I will continue doing this once…maybe twice a year. As I said I am out in the woods in Florida and weed control had become nearly impossible. This is working excellent. Sorry to hear about the Peach seedlings…Very frustrating when we make those deadly mistakes…


With careful administration using a pump up sprayer, I don’t think you’ll see any ill effects. You probably know you don’t want to get glyphosate on the smooth bark because it can absorb it through smooth bark on young trees.

It was years ago we killed the 40 peach seedlings. We’ve not repeated that mistake so far. This year I did kill one small peach w/ glyphosate. It was a brand new graft which got off to a really slow start and the weeds outgrew it. I didn’t notice it when I went through with a small boom sprayer and sprayed the tree along with the weeds. We did the same with a very small apple tree this year, but noticed it right away and thoroughly rinsed it off. It survived.