Bacterial Spot resistant peach for zone 5?

The fruit went on to ripe but damaged and had brown rot on top of it so they were not edible.

mamuang, my never looked like it. My was green skin with no visible damage other then a drop of gum coming out in several places. The gum was leaking more and more, then got fungus or something else black on top. Basically that scab-like trails is where gum was on the peaches.

I do not have my own pictures of young peaches affected, but I found one online looking exactly the same as mine were looking:
Google image

Mine started with catfacing on almost all little peaches, with those open wound came the ooziing. Those catfacing marks are not deep as you can see from the cuts.

I also have serious rot damage for the past few years.

However, the way your described how your peaches were damaged was exactly like mine. To me, it’s almost an overnight attack. IF it’s not BMSB, I still believe it’s catfacing bug damage, I just got lucky to have brown rot on top of it.

So did you find any strategy against the bugs?

Oh, I also have had plenty of OFM :frowning:

I’ve tried to be chemical-less. I don’t have to worry about this year as I have no single peach.

I’ll follow Scott Smith’s advice and spray Surround as protectant and Spinosad for insecticide. The most important thing is timing. If you are one day late, it’ll be over.

For those using chemical, commonly suggested is Triazicide by Spectracide for fruit trees. There are other products people use, too. Others can chime in what insecticide works them.

mamuang, for that I thinks I found a solution. Mosquito zapper AWAY from the trees with OFM lure attached, every night… The number of OFM dramatically decreased. Though some people saying I kill beneficial insects this way too… But sprays kill them as well…

People here seem to think that a mosquito zapper does not work. I do not know if BMSB would be killed by a zapper. I’ve seen pictures of homes invaded by thousands of them further south to us.

Anyway, what are beneficial insects at night that we would kill by a zapper?

That’s an interesting thought. I don’t recall anyone ever suggesting baiting a zapper with ofm lure, but I can’t keep up with all the posts.

In theory this sounds like it could be a powerful tool for organic culture.

Olpea,

There were posts in the past talking briefly about it. It seemed some people think it would not work. Hopefully, some can chime in here.

I read most posts but I am memory is not good :smile:

Mamuang, I’m not surprised it’s been discussed here. Always interested in new ideas. Sounds like I’m behind the curve on this one.

I think that a bag zapper is a great idea! I have a neighbor with 4 peach trees and she doesn’t spray at all. I can spray my trees but OFM still comes from her trees and damage my trees badly. So the only way I can kill her OFM is with bug zapper. May be I even can convince her to buy one.

At least what I saw in my garden it makes me think it is working. At least, very few of those “Frankenstein” looking peaches needed to be thrown away because of been eaten side. And before I started it, at least 2 of three peaches were bitten. For beneficial insects killed by zapper to name just one - Green lacewings

One medium size zapper works for 1/2 acre. So one in the between your properties will be fine. I have a huge apple tree old and never sprayed at my neighbors, I placed zapper between that tree and my orchard, closer to her side.

Galinas,

Could you please give us the name of the brand you use? Not want to spend money on the poor quality one.

How about trips damage?

Thrips on Nectarine

Thrips are tiny insects that feed on a variety of fruits and vegetables, but can cause severe damage to nectarine fruit. Adults move into orchards during bloom and feed and lay eggs inside the flower. This feeding results in scarred, russetted fruit that oozes clear sap during maturity. Thrips can be monitored by collecting at least 10 blossoms per tree and examining the inside of the flowers with a hand lens. If any thrips are found, a treatment of spinosad at dawn or dusk at bloom or petal fall is warranted. Spinosad is harmful to bees when wet, but after 3-4 hours drying time, is safe.

Could not paste the image from the web. The insects are so small that you can not see them.

I will able to check it only next year(hopefully) - no single flower this year on my peach…

Here is the image:

Looks similar? And you won’t see any larvae inside the fruits.

No, this is not how it looked like at all… There were no scaring not covered by gum…