Basic Tips For New Grafters #2: Different Grafts (Discussion Needed)

Me too!

Yeah, me too. And it looks like it’s that way for a lot of the older posts, which is too bad. I don’t have any suggestions. Wish I were good enough to replicated it for you, but I’m not and am not likely to be!

Only that I will try to take pictures to replace them!


Thank you- that would be terrific.

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I think it’s Konrad that needs to update his Photobucket account,by paying them something like $300-$400 a year.
I chose not to and any place outside of PB on the net,that my pictures are stored and displayed,they want the paid upgrade done. Brady

I hope I don’t get in trouble for doing this…

Konrad’s modified bark grafting

Finally!..I have some pictures together and should be self-explanatory.

Why is it different you might ask,…there are two angles cut instead of one.

For two reasons, first, I find it will match better, therefore a better take.

Second, creating a kind of well, where the sealant can run down the slope and making a better seal.

May 12 / 07 cutting the cherry scion wood, note: angle cut, and parallel cut.

Cutting the root stock, note: after the two angle cut, another vetical cut, here, it’s going down to

the bottom of picture.

Joining, taping and sealing…

Note: The top angle cut, perhaps a little too much angle,… is helping tying the graft and helping for the sealant to run down

towards the graft.

June 2 / 07

This graft is one year old…from another graft.



I dont get the Konrad modified bark graft, seems not a bark graft for me as the scionwood is never inserted under the bark of the rootstock ?


My favorite grafting technique is the “pendule graft”, that mixes some techniques of other grafting methods


Thank you!

Here’s the translation for that link:

The pendulum graft

I wanted to introduce a transplant method that I use regularly and that I consider almost universal. I gave him my name on the website.

The origin of this transplant dates back to visualisations of videos showing the usual ways to transplant in the Asian countries, particularly promoted in the advertising clip of the “buddy tape” and of which we find multiple equivalent videos on the internet (links at the end of the article ). Having realized well after viewing these videos and no longer have a fresh memory of how to proceed, I have developed by accident this variant that gives me great satisfaction.

This graft is a mixture of Asian graft (in the spirit, but more aesthetic), cleft, crown, chip budding, English galloping, etc.

It is important to wrap the base of the graft so that you do not let in air or water and cover the end of the graft.

When cutting the graft, think of leaving enough room to properly wrap the base.

It is also possible to cut the bevel of the graft on the side of the eye in order to refocus it in the axis of the rootstock.
Advantages of this method:

  • Works well with a low sapwood rootstock (such as the benefits of chip-budding grafting).

  • No need to have rootstock and grafts of the same diameter, we can graft “micro” grafts without problems.

  • The graft is all alone, we have both hands to ligate, which is not the case with a simple English
    Here’s my quick cut and paste from Google Translates.

  • Advantageously replaces the graft slit (less traumatic), the incrustation (more difficult execution), the crown graft (limited execution period at a stage well sap rootstock)

  • Increased possibilities of contact between graft cambium and rootstock (front and back graft)

  • No need to adjust the graft positioning: the cut of the graft being oval (bevel) there are at least two contacts insured on each side with the cambium of the rootstock, which is cut in a straight line.

Cambium of the graft represented in green, that of the PG in orange

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Here are translations for the photograph captions:

Here’s how to perform this transplant (tabletop simulation).

1- Decapitate the rootstock and clean the wound

2- Cut of the graft (one eye is enough, but you can keep several if you want it)

2a - realization of a classic bevel type “simple English graft”
2b - on the opposite side, cutting of the tip of the bevel at 45 ° (this step is optional as to the recovery of the graft, it is only intended to facilitate mechanical insertion)
The finished graft preparation:
3 - the vertical incision of the rootstock to form a tongue:
4- graft insertion:
5- ligating with only buddy-tape
It is important to wrap the base of the graft so that you do not let in air or water and cover the end of the graft.

When cutting the graft, think of leaving enough room to properly wrap the base.

Possibility of also cutting the bevel graft side eye to refocus in the axis of the rootstock.

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Konrad’s work was impeccable!


Yes it is, there’s only contact under the flaps of bark along the side of the scion. His version lets you match very different sized wood. I didn’t realize someone was going to be able to pull his pictures over, so I went out and shot my own showing how I personally topworked my peaches with his method.

The tools.

Scion prep:

Tree prep:



Two methods of wrapping. This is what I do in hot southern weather that doesn’t need much heat from the tape to heal:

In cooler climates, it’s my understanding you may want to leave the black rubber exposed and fully seal it:

Final tree:


I’ll let y’all know how it goes.


I use my own variation of Konrads variation on nearly all my grafts. @nicollas, on the stock its like any bark graft - the scion goes under the bark. The main difference is how he cuts the scion. Its nearly uniform in thickness over the length, because he “scoops” it out at an extreme angle right at the start.

I don’t make mine completely uniform over the length, its somewhere between Konrad’s completely flat cut for most of the length and the standard wedge of most bark grafts. It is very scooped-out at the start just like Konrad’s method. I feel a tiny bit of wedge to his graft gives a bit more contact overall.


Re: Konrad’s and Scott’s description.

I like when the blade finds that grain and the knife on it’s own follows the grain to the end. If you allow the tool do a lot of the work and just guide it to a starting point (and the knife is extremely sharp) it follows the grain like cutting thru well wood! It’s one of the greatest moments of life to repeat. It’s whittling 101 or 501 I don’t know which. Same with that initial angled cut just before you turn the knife and find that grain pocket. I get excited just thinking about it.



So I have my grafting knife, vinyl tape, paraffin tape, and some scions I trimmed from my apple tree. I have never grafted before so I wanted to practice before trying the real thing. I have been reading all the threads on this forum and watched multiple videos. I was mentally ready, and…

HOLY CRAP I’m going to cut my fingers off!!!

That’s the feeling I had making my first cut. I’m a chiropractor so I need my fingers. There is no way I’m grafting the scions I have coming without cutting myself at least a little bit. I found my instincts taking over while practicing and was scared of the blade. I would have said I was afraid of nothing, but I really had a frightened moment making that first cut.

Like everything in life, practice and trying will make it easier, but kudos to everyone for still having all their digits.


I’ve been playing with the idea of getting a Kevlar glove- about $10, I gather, on Amazon. They must interfere with dexterity, but if you only use one on the non-dominant hand you’d still have full use of the dominant hand. Might make wrapping cumbersome though.

I don’t do a huge amount of grating but I have yet to cut myself- knock on wood!

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Use a CD! See earlier in this thread.

I think the CD is a great idea if you’re bench grafting, but might be a little harder field grafting- I guess it would depend on what you were working with.

I use the CD in the field as well. (or a piece of cardboard if the CD is too small)

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