Thanks for the input. I can put them outside to let them establish in the pot. I just also have indoor options for generating the right temperature for apple and plum grafting. I read here that it seemed people have lower success with grafting on dormant rootstock than field trees.
I graft apples on rootstock that is just starting to push buds, i.e. just ending dormancy and coming to life, ready to heal that graft and push growth. Iâm in Maryland too and always do my apple whip and tongue grafts (bench grafts) starting right now and running another week or so, ideally.
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Welcome aboard! Get some duct tape to protect your thumbs if using a knife, youâll see people in various videos with it. Please be careful, make sure your knife is sharp! Apples are fairly easy and I agree with the above advice. Plums might be a bit harder but itâs worth trying now and again in the summer if they fail now.
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Thank you for the advice! I hadnât seen the tape trick. My grafting knife should be sharpâŚonly used it once when I was inspired to try air layers (totally failed!). Stupid question- Is rootstock available to purchase in summer, or do people leave some potted as back up to try if spring grafting fails?
Rootstock usually sells out well before summer but I havenât tried to source it in summer.
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Generally, Iâd recommend grafting on a low down branch, like an above ground sucker on a tree youâd like to replace the top, let it grow the summer, then cut the main trunk in the winter or next spring.
But you might not have wild trees that are compatible matches to your scions.
Bud grafting onto the rootstock with a failed graft is great if the rootstock survived, same thing, cut the top in the winter or spring.
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