"Best" apricot for New England (6b)?


#41

Bob,

Interesting article. Neat to discover that OrangeRed is a child of Lasgerdi Mashhad.


#42

My experience has been that NE squirrels are very cautious.

Yes, if Montrose flowers later that could be a plus. However, there’s also a good chance that the years when it has crop and others don’t are rare. That is my experience with Harglow, which flowers a week later than other cot in the series. Come to think of it, the only Harglow I manage has survived at its site for 20 years. Rarely produces fruit, though.


#43

Bob, my impression of Zard has dropped a notch or two recently, the blooms survived the last two years but it didn’t end up producing many fruits (I think I got one this year and a couple last year). Montrose didn’t produce many more but I have only a tiny bit of it (rectified this spring with a whole new tree of it).

Usually when Zard blossoms a lot I get a good set, but the last two years it hasn’t been frozen out but it has been close to it and the set has not been any good. It reminds me of Japanese plums like Santa Rosa, it doesn’t seem to like to set when its cold.

Anyway, its definitely worth a go but the verdict is still out on it. Hoyt Montrose has been tested all over the country and done well, the Apricot Interest Group of NAFEX has had quite a few positive reports on it over the years.


#44

Holly,
Just wonder if you ended up planting an apricot tree. If so, what variety, please?

@scottfsmith, what is your opinion on Florilege two years later, please?

I am cautiously optimistic about my apricot grafts this year. Tomcot, Orangered and Robada all have flower buds on them as of today. There is still a whole month of April and the first half of May to deal with weather-wise.


#45

Hi mamuang,
Indeed I planted two:

  • Tomcot on Citation from Bay Laurel
  • Hargrand on Pumiselect from Cummins

Both grew nicely the first year in the ground, and had a bunch of what looked like flower buds on them in the spring of year 2. But these kind of dried up and crumbled off; late freeze maybe? Then a bunch of leaves came out and they were looking good, until one day they up and died suddenly. See this thread:

The Tomcot stayed dead, but the rootstock of the Hargrand (Pumiselect) sent up some shoots and ended up growing like 2 meters last season. I was tempted to graft on a new apricot, but I feel like if two apricot varieties on two different rootstocks from two nurseries died in year 2 it doesn’t make for a promising future for apricots at least in this location. Blah!

Instead I’m going to plant some jujubes in these spots this spring. I’ve been sucked in by all the enthusiasm in the juju threads :slight_smile:


#46

It freezes out as well as all my other apricots :smile_cat: I had a bad two years in a row there.

Hopefully this year I will finally get some apricots. I think I did get one Florilege last year which was excellent. I also got one of a few other varieties.


#47

Thank you, Scott. I used to think growing peaches is a challenge. It seems trying to get fruit from apricots is even more challenging :angry:


#48

I have had the same thing happen to my apricots— all on Citation— dead. Heartbreaking.

Last year I planted Hargrand on Manchurian… and added Zard on top.

I soon will plant Westcot on Manchurian as well.

We’ll see what happens…


#49

Here the difference between sites is great, even if the trees seem fragile everywhere. Some sites provide a harvest 60-70% of seasons while in my own orchard I’ve only been successful by growing them against the walls of my house. However, from them I have the most reliable cropping of any aps I manage. I’m still looking for the perfect site on my property not next to my house and just put two on the best spot for blocking low southern sun to attempt extending dormancy. Interestingly, the trees are not especially fragile on my property, just the flowers are.


#50

Alan,
Can you expand a bit more about a perfect site for apricot should look like? The type that could help delay flower buds from breaking dormancy early.

May be I could find such a site in my friend’s yard!!!


#51

Holly,
Sorry to hear about the lossses. It even stinkier to lose two trees of the same kind of fruit together. It seems apricot trees and unexplained death are not uncommon.

I don’t have an apricot tree so I grafted apricots on my peach and nectarine trees. Some in 2016, more in 2017. They have grown like weeds. Not all apricots are graft- compatible to peach rootstocks, though.

What I like is how fast they produce flowers, the next year of grafting.
What I don’t like is how early they flower considering fluctuating temp we have had.

Re.jujube. I love the taste of honey jar and sugar cane. Not so much of Shanxi li as they tasted drier and spongier but I hope taste will improve as the trees are maturing. If you have an Asian market nearby, you may want to look for them for your family to try. My husband and my daughter do not like the taste. Well, there are more for me :blush: My Asian friends all love them.


#52

Shade helps extend dormancy, but fruit trees need bright sun to ripen good fruit, so if you can’t protect a tree from hard frost by using the southern or eastern wall of a house the next best thing is to find a location that shades the low sun after the equinox but provides good light when the sun is higher. I suppose a conifer could be strategically planted directly south of a cot and kept at the perfect height to accomplish this but I put my two trees on a part of my property that is naturally shaded in this manner by existing forest trees.

Fortunately, due to the topography, those forest trees don’t have roots where the cots are growing. Otherwise I’d probably have to prune their roots to get the cots established.


#53

Thanks.


#54

@BobVance, @mrsg47, @HollyGates, @SMC_zone6,
It’s my first year of apricot blooming. I am excitedd butvwas not sure if the fruit would hang on because many dried uo and fell off.

That led me to be reluctant to thin. Apricot set fruit earlier and were attacked by tent caterpillers. By the time I got BT and sprayed, I saw a lot of dimples. I think it’s caterpiller because I cut those scars up. They were only skin deep.

Sine I was not sure if fruitlets would drop so I Let them hung on quite long. I just thin today, all different sizes.

Robada is the biggest and most precocious. Then, Tomcot, Orangered. I think I may have a few Moniqui but I know I have one Zard. I hope I can protect that one :smile:slight_smile:


#55

I only have Tomcots this year, all of my Harglow blossoms fell off with not one fruit setting. The tree is only three years old and there is nothing precocious about it. I was surprised to find many more Tomcots yesterday, however! Net them! I netted one entire tree for one Tomcot that hung on after our late frost, I showed it to you! It was worth the wait and netting! Will you stick with surround and your bread bags?


#56

This tree died on me this past winter.


#57

My Moniqui is finally producing again, it had borers and took several years to get over them but seems to be OK again. I also have Shalah and Lasgerdi Mashaad fruiting well this year, it should be a good year for white apricots!


#58

Sorry to hear that. I got Moniqui scion from your tree last year, I believe. It has not grown much but it flowered this year.

@scottfsmith, look forward to reading reports of these varieties and other stone fruit report from you later this year.


#59

Mine died this winter…but i have it saved on Krymsk 1…so hopefully it is safer there. I’m trying to move things over to K1.


#60

Warm,
What else you can graft on K1? If it is versatile, I may look into getting this rootstock, too. Is your K1 tree inground? I want a cold hardy rootstock for apricots and peaches that borers do not like.