I am lucky in South East Queensland it is a very mild Subtropical climate. I am sure Mysore could be a big problem in Hawaii and Floida like it is in NSW. The thorns are the main problem but if I succeed in breeding a thornless type, the authorities may let me sell it all over Australia.
If it’s got enough European raspberry genetics, would they even consider it a Mysore raspberry still?
They can be quite paranoid. If the fruit is black and the vigor is similar and it has some, say at least 25% Mysore, then they could be worried enough to ban it.
I know goats would eat any feral seedlings but I am not sure if sheep or cattle would eat them and they are mostly what are farmed. Even if it is thornless, they could say it has high weed potential.
I am also breeding Tindora. It is a thornless, edible vine and it is banned in West Australia.
Hey, I was looking at putting in a few more rows of blackberries. What do all of you do for your row spacing? Currently, I’m looking at an 8ft between the rows, trellised on cattle panels.
(BTW, one row will be adjacent to Victory, if that matters).
To answer your question i think is a tough one. Heavy fruiting plants like TC, Victory and Chester need space to grow longer stronger canes in order to support their fruit load. If using a cattle panel i think you would have to do quite a bit of tying… (i mentioned a fellow named Jim in the old Blackberry Growers group years ago) his videos are invaluable as he used a cattle panel trellis on some of his berries and his tying and pruning methods were top notch.
Worthwhile to read his posts and his videos at least for inspiration.
https://www.facebook.com/jim.elliott.568/videos/911730105675205/?idorvanity=1964534923785437
I was wrong about PA45, it can have a good flavor if you let it get DEAD ripe
also, in my environment at least, Dorman is absolutely a waste of time, effort, and space. Has zero flavor.
And now that my back yard is completely full of every variety of blackberry and tons of raspberries… I walked outside and thought, “Okay I think I’m done. Time to clear out the backyard and get a pool.”
I really am crazy
To grow rice?
What method do use use? I’ve always done cattle panels and they’ve worked great for me, but then again, I haven’t tried other methods to find how they compare.
I can’t open the link for some reason, but at least with how I do it, they don’t necessarily require much tying. Unless the cane has a lot of laterals, or you waited too long and so it’s begun sprouting out, I’ve found that in the winter you can simply weave the canes through the holes without tying. Otherwise, bring a packet of zipties.
This is my TC:
I have less experience with the super erect varieties, so I was wondering if I should tip my Kiowa primocanes at the top of the panel. My thought was they would make laterals that would already simply run down the row. If I let them grow out, I don’t know how easily I can manipulate those sturdy canes back down to the trellis.
for Kiowa specifically, if it were me I’d let it grow to the top of the cattle panel then tip it. That should send out side shoots that you can run a long way horizontally on the trellis. Like the “TPUPS” method used by the guy from Petals from the Past, check out their youtube videos about it
Glad you mentioned Dorman it is 75% R. parvifolius. I grew this and it had zero flavour but lots of bright red, juicy berries. I have a cross with R.idaeus. The F1 looks a lot like the R. parvifolius. No fruit yet but when it flowers I am going to cross it to R.idaeus to get a 75% R. idaues and 25% R. parvifolius. Hopefully this will have enough Subtropical adaptability and some flavour. I also want it thornless.
My blackberry patch is still a work in progress. Here is how I have it set up so far. 4 Triple Crown, 3 Natchez, and 1 Apache. If I want to add another row how far apart should I space them? I currently have a 54” mower, but when it’s time to upgrade I will most likely get a 60” or possibly a 72”.
Pics of a nice medium size 5g-6g Thornless, late, primocane fruiting, raspberry.
I have another that is very late and is just flowering now in early Winter. It may or may not mature fruit, it depends on how cold the nights get.
Looks mostly Rubus idaeus other than maybe the semiripe fruit, is this a backcross? Beautiful plant and berries!
Out of curiosity. Do black raspberries or purples need more water than reds ? Has anyone of you noticed anything in that regard ?
my fall raspberries continue to ripen fruit even after light night frosts hit them. as long as its fairly sunny and above 50f during the day, they will still ripen. they wont be as sweet though as the ones that ripened in late summer. better used for jams.
I also have these. I’m in arid/mountain zone 6b. They have been in since 2016 in a fairly sheltered spot, but I haven’t mulched them or anything. I am planning to cut back some of the nearby trees so they actually fruit (kind of like the wild ones near logging sites). As of now, they looks good but mostly just grow vegetatively.
We also have an heirloom called “Olympic” that went into obscurity at the end of WWII. Raintree also has carried that in the past. It’s a quite excellent, but also has tiny fruit.
Interesting question. I grow both in small quantities along with other caneberry varieties and tend to water them depending on vigor of growth. The red raspberries form a thicket over time and get watered more heavily than the black raspberries that tend to put out fewer protocanes right at the initial planting spot.
Hi, this is a pure Rubus idaeus cross. I have done a backcross to Purple raspberries but the seeds have not germinated yet. I am hoping for a bigger Purple like ‘Royalty’.
“my fall raspberries continue to ripen fruit even after light night frosts hit them.”
That is good to know.
The only time my fall gold stopped trying to produce and ripen was when the stayed under 45 for a while. I love fall gold. Fall gold and Anne are my work horses.