A cross between two primocane fruiters, PAF and ORUS 4355-2 . Is the latter an Ursinus type or an eastern type? I didn’t see any reference to growth habits.
I know ursinus types have a somewhat different flavor profile than eastern types (¿more aromatic?). I also remember buying a trailing type years ago at my local flower festival – I ended up losing it later, having never found out the variety, but it must have been a low-chill Floricane fruiter. That’s why I’m interested, I wanna get back what I lost. Wild Treasure hasn’t worked yet for me.
¿Are there any low-chill floricane trailing types?
Nice video on Vintage for those interested to ponder. He talks about it as a primocane fruiting variety…not a word of everbearing i dont think.
On the flip side there is Crimson Night which i found this very obscure video that talks about it NOT being a very good primocane variety in colder climates.
Probably the best bets would be the hybrids like Olallie, Kotata, Silvan, Newberry, Logan and Boysen… all of those are grown successfully in California. Silvan probably being the top pick as it thrives in Australia and NZ. Most all of those are out of favor and unavailable for purchase though…so you have to go with newer USDA releases that are inferior.
IF global warming becomes an issue many places will not have a choice for these heat loving cultivars as they are gone from the trade.
You can always go with the TAMU releases of blackberries such as Rosborough, Womack, Brazos, Brison etc. They grow these in Vegas heat as well as Texas heat and the Mojave desert area. I talked about them before but no interest… I think planting a few in case of extreme heat events would be a wise choice for a prepper… most handle the cold fairly well also.
Bababerry would be a good choice for a low chill rasp.
Indeed not all Rubus are tolerant of heat, but even among those that are, there are many that refuse to produce without winter chill.
A rule of thumb I’ve seen from other local growers is that anything over 400 hours won’t bear without tricks, and anything under 200 hours will bear fruits trick-free in chill-free conditions.
I do remember seeing a red fruit at the stall, looking like a blackberry, so the one I lost might have been a Loganberry. I think I’ll go with that. Funny enough, I have a Tayberry and it won’t flower for me.
@rubus_chief … i get double berries like that quite often on my logans… usually mid to late in their ripening period… also get some longer than usual berries too some near 2 inch.
Today i harvested some nice sized illini berries. They are getting near the end of production for the year.
I think it is a typo - havent found anyone else saying it is later than Heritage and several other places saying it is earlier (including its HortScience paper)
I want to trial it but dont want it if it is later than Heritage but am confident it is earlier
Disappointing Arapahoe Blackberry: Washed out taste plus small insects infest them before ready to pick, unlike my Ponca that insects don’t touch and taste much better, stronger, distinct.
If you read the old descriptions they say ‘good for jams and jellies’… so probably not the best choice for fresh eating. I pulled mine a couple of years ago…waste of space.
If you are interested in a variety with a longer ripening window, earlier ripening and better for fresh eating Kiowa is a good choice for a U of Ark variety… i like to replace varieties that are thornless with thorny ones due to not being able to fully remove all of the roots… its a nightmare with all of the suckers trying to figure out what is what for me.
Another good choice is Prime Ark Horizon…which is also thorny but less thorny… is high yielding as well. I got a very small crop of primocane fruits this year from immature canes and they were very tasty.
The old varieties like Arapaho, Natchez, Navaho etc are great for folks that have never tried anything else and have nothing to compare them to… they make nice selfies with big pretty berries also…but are flat/dull/washed out tasting to me like you say. Good for jams/jellies/cobblers though.
I am not impressed with my Caddo this year very boring flavor. Nice erect plants though.
Likely will replace Caddo/Ponca with the new releases of Zodiac which they compare to Columbia Star…which Columbia Star is the thornless version of Marion… looks very good on paper.
Also will add Celestial…which should out produce triple crown by a far margin. The goal was to out produce Chester but have a flavorful berry…i think this covers that.
Zodiac will have the complex flavor that i like…and Celestial should be a beast for production (smaller berries but many many more of them).
@krismoriah Thanks. Are you on west coast? Great idea to replace thornless with thorny. I’ve got a thorny Double Gold RB next to Arapahoe so may transplant DG volunteers into vacated spot.
This is the first year my 30ft of trellis has been producing well. I noticed SWD a week ago in my triple crown but have probably been here longer.
For the triple crown I’ve just been eating most of the berries off the bush and solarizing the worst ones. I had just been throwing every thing in compost bin before that… probably a bad idea.
I have a Joan j that has a nice crop and is about to ripen. I bought some spinosad I’m planning on using either tonight or tomorrow
I dont use it… dont have anything against anyone who does… but the worms are already in your berries and in my opinion all you are doing is ingesting chemicals on top of the worms that are already in the fruit.
Try soaking one bowl in either apple cider vinegar, lemon juice and water…or ice water and salt… all will kill the worms in the berries and most all of them float to the top so that you dont have to eat them.
If you dont see any worms then you didnt have any to begin with…so no sense in spraying.
FYI do this to your store bought berries as well (there are worms in them too and they spray heavy and hard).
Kind of pedantic video but i think educational if you dont like eating worms.
Makes sense, I bought traps so next year I will monitor and try to get ahead.
I don’t mind eating the worms myself. If my wife finds one though, that will be her last one. So I only bring in perfect ones and put them in the fridge right away and nothing has crawled out. That being said a “perfect” one is only 1 in 20. I’m having other issues particularly “white druplet” disorder. But also some frank SWD rot and also many berries with just a single druplet damage. I’m not sure if that’s SWD or something else. So even the berries I am picking are usually a little under ripe.
My triple crown is 3 years old. It has had white druplet both years it fruited. Does this improve with maturity? If not I’m inclined to remove and replace with something that can handle sun better
Yeah they dont really crawl out… they are in the core and when they are chilled they die in place. So if u got em…ur eating them.
Im going with hummingbirds myself…they eat them and feed them to their young… but thats my personal preference. They are here in that window for me and fun to watch as well.
Some folks make traps out of fallen or rotten berries kind of like yellowjacket traps are made… i will likely have to do that next year on some new varieties to me that ripen in August/Sept.
White Druplet- Brown stink bugs mostly… However the obession with folks that love to “encourage laterals” by pruning causes UV damage as the canopy is removed in the quest for more laterals. New canes left unchecked will naturally shade out most floricane crops in their quest for sunlight and decrease UV damage such as this and sunscald. Mostly human caused on this condition…but stink bugs are a factor. You can decrease this by adding shade cloth if you choose to do the ‘lateral encouraging’.
Did a salt water bath on 30 or so blackberries… yep still a few SWD … but very light. Not getting as much protein from them now as I was a couple years ago
Stinkbug damage of individual blackberry druplets will be off-white and in the process of collapsing and drying out. UV white druplets are whiter, remain filled out, may weep and be sticky.
After refrigerating my Triple Crowns, I see larvae of all stages of maturity exit the fruit, so I assume the cold is causing them to instinctively travel to a warmer place. I do not use water or salt.
There can be UV damage on Triple Crown regardless of the age of the planting.
Apple Cider vinegar trap is the cheapest and earliest indication of SWD infestation.
I picked today and did not see any disturbed SWD on the wing. There are hundreds in the traps, day 4 since refreshing.
