sulphur takes at least a season to show results, one year I amended by inground bushes and they showed good health next season. since, I have moved all my blueberries into a pot and raised bed. If you are not too strict on only using organic products, supplement organic fertilizer with jacks acid early in the season, results can be seen within a week.
Yes, Steve. I just planted a Contender Peach last month. At the bottom of the planting hole I added a layer of sharp gravel then layered more in as I back filled the hole and left a 1-2 inch layer on the top. Not mulch for this one. I will add some of the same sharp pea gravel around the rest of my plantings as we seem to have an infestation of voles; and chipmunks as well. Thanks for your input. I will keep this thread posted at the end of the harvest to let everyone know about the results.
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Yes, I love the results of the Jackās acid fertilizer. I have been advised to fertilize with it once a month in the spring and as many as three times a month in June, July, and August (the last month to fertilize just about anything in Nashville) for good growth for next year. So far Iām getting lots of new growth. All of mine are in the ground. I have bought all of my existing blueberries from True Vine Ranch in Kansas City. They have a great place there. Doug and Tonya Wiley wrote up a really good instruction sheet on how to properly plant the blueberries. Check them out.Planting
Purchase 2 cubic feet per plant of Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss available in ābalesā from garden centers. Canadian peat moss has the lowest pH which is ideal for blueberries. Dig a hole 20 inches in diameter and 15 inches deep (cylinder shaped, not a cone or a bowl). Remove all the native soil. Mix the peat moss thoroughly with 5-7 gallons of water until all peat moss turns dark brown and the consistency of thick mud. A wheelbarrow works very well for mixing. Re-fill the entire hole with moistened peat moss. Plant your blueberry by making a hole in the peat moss. The top of the blueberry root ball should be level to the native soil line. Do not put any native soil in or on top of this hole filled with moist peat moss. Stake the plant if needed the first growing season. After that time, the plants should be sufficiently rooted and not need staking. Fertilize and mulch as described below. If you are unable to plant soon after delivery keep the root ball moist. Do not submerge the root ball in water.
For fall planting it is common to see some wilting when the plants arrive. Water the root ball immediately and plant within 48 hours. Do not fertilize your blueberry plants until March allowing them to go dormant without any new growth. It is also common for blueberry leaves to gradually show brown spots and red/yellow coloring as fall progresses. Blueberry leaves should drop off in November and December.
For container growing you will need a container with good drainage that is 20-24 inches in diameter and 15-18 inches deep. The downside to planting in containers is that more frequent watering is required. Plants will typically need to be watered daily in the summer, 3-4 times a week in the fall, and 2 times a month in the winter. Container growing is not recommended for USDA plant hardiness zone 4.
Watering
Blueberries are shallow rooted plants that need to stay moist but not soggy. Water requirements vary, especially as plants mature. Keep plants moist. During the heat of the summer it is common for plants to need water 2-3 times per week. The first sign a plant is too dry is the wilting of newer growth. Leaf edges turning brown shows the plant has been too dry. The first sign a plant is too wet is yellowing leaves. Continue watering until Thanksgiving or first snow. Lack of water in fall kills blueberry plants.
Mulching
Each plant needs a minimum 30 inch diameter of thick mulch to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. We recommend a 3-5 inch layer of pine bark as the optimal mulch. Avoid using cedar or black walnut.
Fertilizing
Fertilizer requirements vary, especially as plants mature. Mix 2 tablespoons of Jacks Classic Acid Special or Peters Professional Acid Special fertilizer or a generic version with 1 gallon of water. Apply fertilized water in a 6 inch ring around the base of each plant at least 1 time per month from March through mid-August. During summer months you can fertilize up to 3 times a month for more growth. If blueberry leaves have small red spots it often indicates the need for fertilization. As plants mature you can increase the volume of the mixture used but do not increase the fertilizer to water ratio.
For organic fertilization use Holly Tone (a granular/slow release) at a rate of 1 cup once a month or horse manure tea (5 parts water to 1 part manure) 1-2 times per month March through early August.
Pests
Blueberry plants are seldom bothered by bugs or diseases that require a spray here in Kansas City. A solution of 1 part dish soap to 10 parts water is effective against many insect pests. There are many organic and low toxicity products labeled for Japanese Beetles. Carefully read and follow the directions.
If rabbits are prevalent, use a 1 foot high fence around each plant until plants are at least 4 years old. If birds or deer are prevalent, we recommend using 1/2 inch square black plastic ābird netting" available at garden centers. Start netting when the first berry turns blue. Drape the netting over the plants and let it drag on the ground. Take the netting off when the fruit has been picked. Deer tend to be more prone to graze on blueberry plants in the fall and winter.
Pruning
Blueberries mature at 6-7 years of age looking like an ornamental hedge plant up to 6 feet high and 3 feet wide. You are welcome to shape or prune the plants whenever you would like. We do not recommend pruning the plants until they are 9-10 years old.
Harvesting and Handling
Fresh blueberries last for up to four weeks in the refrigerator. Blueberries can be frozen for up to one year. Do not wash blueberries before freezing them. Place them in freezer bags, freeze, and wash them when you are ready to use them.
Flavorful Hints
Duke blueberries have a great flavor and will become sweeter with refrigeration. Elliott blueberries need additional time on the bush after they have completely turned blue. Sampling and waiting a week or so after being fully colored yields a sweet berry.
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thanks Charles. maybe it was your post that i saw this. great idea! im in Maine and the winter of 22ā was exceptionally bad for voles. many small forest trees succumbed as well.
Iām not a fan of in ground planting of blueberries unless your native soil is acidic. PH is a measure of hydrogen ions. If soil is say 6.5 the blueberry soil will be sucked dry of hydrogen ions. Itās like putting salt in Lake Michigan. It looks like an ocean but it is not. Youāre going to need a lot of salt. I prefer raised beds. Itās like salting a kiddy pool. A lot easier than Lake Michigan. If you insist on in ground best to measure pH after the first year monthly. Have a lot of sulfur on handā¦
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Great thanks. Iām curious why no Cedar for mulch? I have shredded Cedar throughout my garden for mulch. I used shredded Redwood for the blueberries since itās supposed to be good mulch for acid loving plants but I believe Cedar and Redwood are in the same family. Pine bark seems non existent here where I live.
I only had one source for years but now Menards carries two types. Nice quality.
If you have that chain look there. Kept with the other mulches.
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Fir bark if you are in the west coast.
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I checked it out. $6+ per 2cf bag + $20 ground shipping. Thatās not bad Ace wanted $270+ for one bag lol. I donāt understand whatās wrong with Ace a few years ago I wanted a few 10ā t post and it was around $500 to ship 3.
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I use fir bark but not in the mix only on top. I read itās also acidic but I only see people using fir for mulch and pine bark for soil mixes such as for figs and blueberries especially. Will the fir last it seems to break down kind of fast on the top of the pots?
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Fir bark is same if not superior to pine bark. Most potting soil carried in the west coast has fir bark or sawdust in them.
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Thanks! Yeah very easy to come by here too.
Well shoot, my PH is 6.6 (which I thought was pretty acidic for being in SoCal), but the buffer PH is 7.85. I have two blueberries in pots and was planning on trying two more in ground with sulfur applications. Maybe Iāll sulfur now and try next year.
It can be done, good idea to get soil ready first. You have been warned itās a lot of work.
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I just sprinkle the sulfur onto the soil and wait no? I have a thick layer of wood chips on my soil that I replenish every year with arborist chip dumps. I was hoping thereād be plenty of the microbes or bacteria to break down the sulfur.
Is there something else I need to be aware of?
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Lots of great info in this thread. I have moved all my blueberries from a raised bed into the ground this spring and Iām excited to see the results. Transplanted them all into peat moss and Iām cover cropping the area around them, which is a heavy clay soil, with annual rye this year, and red fescue next year. A study found that coplanting grasses with blueberries reduces the need for acidic soil because the grassā roots make iron available to the blue berries. Wonāt recommend this to anyone as of now. Weāre only a month into this experiment, but Iāll be sure to update this thread once a verdict is in.
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I donāt like to wait,so sulfuric acid is used.
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Yes itās easy to use too much or not enough. The only way to know is to monitor soil pH.
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If you want immediate results, I recommend to use jacks acid mix for the first half of the season. Then, apply sulphur towards end of summer which should show results next season.
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Here are some of my blueberries so you can compare or see what to expect. Mine are just about done flowering. Well more than halfway through bloom. This will vary depending where you live.
In containers from left to right: Caraās Choice and Razz. I love both of these. Both have top shelf flavor. Razz has the added bonus of scented flowers. Only blueberry I have with enough scent to easily detect.
Toro in a raised bed
Legacy in raised bed
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