Actually, I went to their website, and Nourse Farms does have Bluegold for sale online at this time!
Gurney’s and Burpees also popped up in my search on the first page.
And, DiMeo has 4 year old bare root plants for $10 each…pick up now at their nursery. 38 varieties. They’re in MD if I remember.
Hope you get plenty of good input on varieties and especially on whether you should get the rabbiteye vs highbush/southern highbush at your location. The rabbiteye are great for me while the southern highbush were terrible. Oddly enough, birds only take a few of my berries, but if I hadn’t caged them when they were young the deer would have eaten the bushes to the ground.
Yes, I feel like I am to far south for northern highbush and to far north for southern blueberries.
Tifblue is self fertile, I only have one bush and it survives outside in a 25 gallon container over winter just fine so it is hardy down below 0 degrees too.
When I google rabbiteye blueberries it seems like they are zone 7 or higher, I am zone six, should I zone push?
Simmons Berry Farm, out of AR, has sent me the largest, healthiest BBs I’ve ever gotten.
Dan Finch Nursery, in NC, has largest offering of varieties I’ve seen, but plants are hit/miss as to size and root system.
Indiana Berry is OK, Nourse is, as well.
Your water PH is going to drag your soil PH around fairly quickly, so if you end up having to water them you may need to acidify your water. This goes double if you put them in containers.
As for if it is worth it …
Blueberries seem to ship and freeze well, so it isn’t like tomatoes or stone fruit where you need to grow your own to get quality fruit. But there are cultivars that aren’t grown commercially, and I’ve heard some are quite a bit better than commercial fruit.
Birds absolutely love blueberries, so be aware that netting may not be successful unless you are pretty good at leaving no gaps. I lost my entire crop to a single pair of catbirds this year. A chicken wire fruit cage might be the better option.
Indiana berry is a fantastic nursery! It allows small backyard growers to get a variety of berries for a reasonable price, as the minimum order is just 1 plant/variety. I ordered a few berries last season. They emailed me later to check how the plants are doing and when I told them a couple of the rasps didn’t leaf out, they promised me to send replacements this season. They also offered to replace the gooseberry that didn’t grow much as well, but thats an experiment on my part, so I declined. I called them a few days back to check as they have stopped taking orders from CA (due to some inconsistent agricultural inspections). They confirmed that they will still send me the replacements. I can’t recommend them enough, although I am bummed I can’t order from them anymore 
I haven’t kept up in recent years with newer varieties.
If the net is weighted to the ground, even catbirds will be excluded- the loud mouthed thieves. However, if you have a squirrel issue, chicken wire may be absolutely necessary.
The problem with weighing down nets is having to lift it and then reanchor it every time you harvest, which you will need to do about twice a week.
Derby42, rather than taking the position that you live in “no man’s land” regarding which species and cultivar–how about looking at it from the perspective that they might all three do OK for you, and just try some.
I’ve had Brightwell, a newer and heavy bearing (if you have a pollinator) Rabbiteye, in a big nursery pot for going on 10 years…it survived minus 18 in 2014 sitting outside under dripline of a garage. A few of the rabbit eye are self fertile, but not many.
Sunshine Blue is a southern high bush that should do well…it does here in zone 6b. And isn’t picky about soil or pH. Legacy is another Southern I would try, but just haven’t gotten around to it. Also Liberty. (A Northern I think.)
Many of the northerns will likely do OK for you also. EarliBlue, … not for planting in damp places that don’t drain. I’m sure most blueberries do better on sloping cropland or on ridges or raised beds. Toro seems to tolerate wetter soils, and plant looks good. I’ve not grown HardiBlue, but supposedly it survives bad conditions.
Unfortunately, my memory of what varieties I plant seems to fade…unless I make a drawing or map…for labels with Sharpie’s only last a year or two. I’ve tried many, including Herbert and the old Jersey. Bluecrop, which doesn’t excite me. Sunshine Blue and Misty are about the only two I can recognize from a glance, and that has to do with leaf shape and color.
Maybe visit an Ag extension agent, or a U-Pick farm and see what they grow?
This one is mixed. Often listed as northern. Burpee, Nature Hills and other nurseries list as northern. It has both. Although southern was made with northern stock and rabbiteye. No other southern’s will grow here. Maybe Sunshine Blue, Southmoon too. Legacy has plenty of Northern in it to actually thrive here.
Drew51, sounds like you know the genetics better than I do. I’ve seen “Star”, “Sharpblue” and some other Southern blueberries growing in Central and South Florida…probably wouldn’t do well in Michigan.
Sunshine Blue, though sufficiently LOW CHILL to grow in Florida, seems to do well in Zone 6. I suppose the blossoms are much hardier than fruits such as peaches…certainly they produce after having upper 20’s at night while in bloom, from my personal experience.
Bluecrop and Sunshine Blue both have clusters of many berries, that don’t all ripen at once, which can be good and bad. Makes the berry size average, and hard to pick the ripe ones without getting some unripe ones. But, allows harvest for a month or so before they’re all gone.
Other than sour cherries, blueberries are my easiest and most productive fruit crop. I’m amazed every year at how much fruit I get with no work or spray. I net mine, but as blueberries aren’t huge it’s easy to build a frame around them. My advice is to do a ton of homework on the exact varieties you plant. I wasted a lot of time on mediocre tasting berries and have replaced nearly all of my original bushes over the last 20 years. As others have said, think about timing too. It’s time consuming picking berries so think about whether you want to pick over the span of 2 months or get it all done early in just a few weeks.
My mom picks at a local upick , I asked her today when we were visiting for Christmas if she knew what variety they grew and she said it was ozarkblue
I grow both of these varieties in Northern Ky in amended soil that is normally 7pH. Kabluey has a great flavor while Reka is a bit tart. Patriot is another variety that has worked well and has a good flavor. I also grow a few Rabbiteye varieties here but the fruit has slightly larger seeds that, in my opinion, is not as pleasant to eat as the Northern Highbush varieties. I don’t spray mine and have not had any insect losses but bird will eat them is not covered by netting, which I use.
I use Fast Acting Sulfur that I buy at Home Depot, to treat the soil and this has worked for me for at least 5 years.
Whether you should grow them is a personal decision, because it takes work to grow them but once the soil is amended and the berries covered, there is little effort involved in growing them, at least for me. I have about a dozen mature blueberry bushes but I still buy blueberries at the grocery store every week, because I consume a lot more than I grow. 
I tried that, but I didn’t have a single piece of netting large enough for all 7 pots. I clustered them very close, draped netting all around, weaved the edges together with twist-ties, and tucked the bottoms under pots or weighed them down with bricks. The catbirds always found a way through eventually.
I probably need to order something 30 x 30 for this year, or actually finish my PVC cage frame. The netting is a huge pain to deal with.
OP, if you are in zone 6 then you might be able to make gooseberries, colored currants, or black/yellow raspberries work. They wilt and lose all their leaves here in Richmond (7A) once the temperatures hit 95 or so, but if your area doesn’t get that hot for that long (or you can provide good afternoon shade) they might work for you.
Check with MU Extension folks & their online publications, but take their recommendations with a grain of salt. UofKY ‘experts’ recommend only northern highbush types here, and while they may be best for central or eastern KY, in my area of western KY, just north of the TN border, rabbiteyes are 10X more productive than NHBs.
I’ve long ago lost IDs on varieties I have here, so can’t make specific recommendations, but I know we’ve got the standard Woodard, Tifblue, Delight, Premiere, plus Brightwell and several others, and Ozarkblue & Summit SHB. No NHBs here anymore. Pink Lemonade, bought on a whim at TSC… still struggling after about 3 years in the ground.
I spent 4 years in the Columbia/Rocheport area… I don’t feel like the winters were all that much more severe than ours here, and the summers were certainly just as hot/humid. I’d bet that rabbiteye and SHBs will probably work for you, as will NHBs.
There were little native gooseberries(R.missouriense, maybe?) growing wild on the Rocheport farm we lived on, so improved selections would probably work for you there, even if you need to plant them in a spot that gets afternoon shade - as I’ve had to do with all but Pixwell here.
Good info lucky, thank you!
Got my blueberries from Simmons today. Big plants blueberry plants and nice tip layers of the Kiowa blackberries and they sent twice the amount I ordered, thank you for the recommendation Lucky.