Agree that those leaves looked like a shot hole disease, not Captan burn.
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I used to get burn on my plums from Captan.
I thought it looked like shothole as well. Then I thought, why would I get shothole right after spraying? So I sprayed again paying closer attention and once again holes formed in the leaves. Interesting that the older leaves don’t get burned and the very youngest leaves (still folded up) dont get burned. It is just the young ones that have unfolded. At this stage my leaves are often kind of wrinkled. My best guess is that the spray is able to pool in these pockets and those pockets take longer to evaporate giving the Captan enough time to burn these areas of the leaves.
@SpokanePeach/ Kevin,
I’ve found this article helpful. Although it compared Bacterial Leave Spot to copper injury, the author did mention that copper injury and Captan injury is similar.
It is possible that you have both shot hole and Captan burn issues.
https://extension.psu.edu/peach-disease-bacterial-spot-differentiation-from-copper-injury
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Captan causing shothole appearance was discussed here. It isn’t clear to me if it was a variety issue or an application issue. Maybe @MES111 can clarify.
Thanks Tippy and AJ. This information is very helpful.
A few take aways: Some sprays can burn plant tissue. Captan and Copper are examples. To minimize the potential for injury, try to spray in “fast drying conditions”.
Although there are other spray products that may be more effective for a particular problem, there is nothing wrong with the Bonide product and it is readily available to backyard fruit growers. However it is useful to be aware of the potential pitfalls and what to do to avoid them. Thanks again for all of the help!
One other thing you should know- just because a grower claims good or bad results at a specific site, this kind of anecdotal evidence is always suspect for your own conditions and even in general.
Over the years many growers have complained about the poor results they’ve gotten from Bonide mixed pesticide products on this forum and others I have followed in the past. Drew is exceptional in his endorsement, but he is fairly experienced at this point- in his own conditions.
I don’t like mixed products because the only protection I usually need after spring is from brown rot for stone fruit. I’m also a commercial applicator who sprays scores of orchards, so I can use any material available and usually make use of a lot of material over time (meaning I can put the large quantities of commercial packaging to use). .
If it can be avoided, it’s a good idea to only target the pest that is threatening your fruit. Too much insecticide can throw off the natural predatory controls in an orchard- especially when pyrethroids or sevin are in the mix. I spray scores of orchards and do use a pyrethroid in many of them due to a lack of legal alternatives. Most orchards don’t get mite flair-ups or even infestations of white-fly as a result, but some do. I’ve had the same problem with Sevin, so when my only issue is fungus, all I ever want to apply is fungicide.
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I have come to not like them either, my biggest complaint about Bonide. So I do switch products as you mention an insecticide is not always needed. I have a window where it isn’t. That window has now closed with the arrival of Japanese beetles and SWD so back to the dual products.
For some reason I’ve never had captan burn on peaches under any conditions or rates (as I mentioned in the links AJ posted) but I know it can occur. I still use captan every season.
The pics posted by Spokane Peach seem to match pics on the internet of captan burn.
One thing I’ll mention is that for some reason different formulations have different phytotoxicity potential. At least that was my experience in one case.
Namely, I once bought some chlorothalonil off the shelf as a lawn store and used it to spray some tomatoes. Every single time I used it, it would burn the tomato foliage. I kept backing off the rate more and more till I was using only 1/4 of the labeled rate and still had problems. This was a long time ago and I was pretty frustrated it wasn’t working.
Then I used a different formulation of chlorothalonil and didn’t have any problems. I use it on tomatoes at the max rate now and don’t see any foliage burn. I suspect it was one of the “inert” ingredients of the first formulation which was phytotoxic, but that’s just a guess.
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I want to make the observation that Bonide’s Fruit Tree and Plant Guard contains lambda-cyhalothrin which is just a mix of the active ingredient in Spectracide Triazicide (gamma-cyhalothrin) and an less active isomer. It also has Pristine fungicide in it (boscalid+pyraclostrobin).
I gave a small amount I had left to my dad this spring as I didn’t have use for much spray this year, and he told me that it didn’t seem to work on the Japanese beetles. I’m guessing that lambda-cyhalothrin suffers from the same problem its isomer does - rapid breakdown at the dilute rate under hot temperatures. The same product worked very well for me last year at keeping JB’s at bay for about 2 weeks.
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I’ll agree with @Olpea. I think it’s mainly the spreader component of these premixes .Foliage burn have happened to me using Orthro Flower, Fruit and Vegetable insect killer.
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Captan burn is well known by commercial apple growers in the Hudson Valley near me. It burns tender young foliage, especially when lots of rain and lack of strong sun keeps foliage tender. What my adviser from Crop Production Services says about it is “they sell fruit not leaves”. Captan is still a vital component of most commercial growers scab control. Leaf burn may look ugly but doesn’t have much practical negative affect on trees over the course of a season. Once scab gets on the fruit you are screwed. Myclobutanil is no longer a silver bullet in the Hud Valley, but scab has yet to break Captan’s more complex code.
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How would the fruit be if you didn’t use these products? Each member/poster here should have their geographical location listed. For home growing I’m surprised these products are used. There could be a problem with your given environment which causes pest problems to occur which affects the integrity of the fruit, the fruit quality, and which could possibly be ‘corrected’, but without the use of poisons.
Scott,
Where is your geographical location?
South OB, Pt. Loma, San Diego,… location should be a given reference next to each of our names. Tell us where you’re located,… and again, it should be already listed per website set up right next to our name on each message we write.
Pests are dependent on conditions, and for the homeowner especially, efforts for ‘holistic’ control/balance should be made, and making sense of the conditions and how the conditions may promote pest problems.
You can list your location in your profile. If you click on the member’s name or image to the left of their name a pop-up with their profile info comes up.
Yes, as Levers points out, you can edit your profile with location, then when anyone wants to see your location, they can click on your avatar to see where you are from.
To edit your profile and include location, click on your avatar, then click on preferences, then click on profile, then click on the line which says location. The location dialog box will open and you can type in your location.
We are somewhat limited to features available with this software package. It’s a great software program, but some features are limited, and we are bound by the formatting of the software. Some people may choose not to disclose their location, which of course they don’t have to.
When I lived in S. CA I didn’t need to spray anything to get crop and I was a die-hard organic grower. Until you’ve tried to grow fruit in the humid region you can’t know anything about what we face when we decide to graduate from growing vegetables to growing tree fruit. Apples can be grown organically, but you aren’t going to get storeable fruit without a lot of spray no matter how you do it. We have nothing organic that controls brown rot on stone fruit.
These are not native fruit we are talking about. Integrity gots nothing to do with it.
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“Until you’ve tried to grow fruit in the humid region you can’t know anything about what we face when we decide to graduate from growing vegetables to growing tree fruit”. Kudos, very well said indeed…
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