Dwarf Mulberries

That is the nightmare of buying starter plants. I used to buy rare plants and it was always a horror waiting on starters to become mature enough to overcome issues. Deer and cows love mulberries. I had a cow defoliate mine on what would have been a awesome first harvest. Then when they began to recover deer came in. They don’t seem to keep coming back but they do come long enough to tear my heart out. In my case I had the cow hauled away after weeks of staying up all night to keep it away and the owner not responding to my pleading. In the case of the deer I took the damage on again and used castor oil mixed with diatomaceous earth. That seemed to stop them and haven’t seen them in a while.

Just applied around the base of the plant, or did you smear it on the stems?

I dusted the whole everything buy tossing small handfulls. The Diatomaceous earth has the perfect texture to carry the castor oil. I start with the castor oil and water then mix in the diatomaceous earth until it is all kinds dry.

Shin Tso, Mulle, Chelsea and Sham Dudu can you tell me about their flavor if they fruited for you?

I lost Shin Tso to late frosts. That one came out of dormancy way too early for my climate (7a). Sham Dudu is the only one that already fruited for me. It is a true morus nigra cultivar. I do have more morus nigra growing but those are still young grafts and didn’t fruit either. So I do not have much experience with the taste of morus nigra, besides Sham Dudu. From what I read from others Sham Dudu seems to taste like your typical morus nigra. Unripe fruits (red stage) are quite acid tasting. When fully ripe (black stage) that changes to a very nice sweet-sour balance. Plus the fruit has a spicy taste to it, peppery I’d say. I only detect that in ripe fruit. I really like the fruit from Sham Dudu.

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That’s cool. I’m hoping to get fruit off my nigra Tsarigradska mulberry from Bulgaria. Next year. Grows in zone 6. I need to test hardiness as the zone 6 (6b) is comes from is warmer than my zone 6 (6a) I’m protecting it for now till I can get some scion from it to graft to in ground rootstock. I can harvest this winter and the rootsock was planted last spring. So I will be grafting it in the spring.

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Interesting. i never heard about them cultivar names so i was curious. i like near Illinois everbearing flavor. low in acid. thank you for sharing your experience with growing them.

I know where there is a warmer zone 6 nearby, Drew…lol

Let me know how it goes for you. I’ve been watching your posts on this particular plant carefully…

Scott

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This year it grew well. I have a 2nd plant, but it didn’t grow at all, just sat there at 2 inches high. It is now going on 3rd leaf and it is 2 inches high! Very strange! Well i was not around much. Probably was stressed all summer. My other plant is over 2 feet tall. Slow growth compared to alba seedlings. I can spare a cutting for you. I plan to cut the central leader back and it’s about 8 inches, I think I can get 2 cuttings from that? Short but should each have three nodes. I only need one.

I wish You good luck! Only keep in mind that dozens of enthusiasts failed with propagating this mulberry in Vratza (grafting or budding onto morus alba). So better make several attempts.

Yeah, OK, well what I will also do is make an air layer,see if that works? Then plant it on it’s own roots. Air layers can work with about anything, even peach trees if you follow some specific methods for attracting hormones to the area.

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Airlayering is the next method I will try next year. I had a hard time this year to propagate morus nigra by grafting/budding onto morus alba rootstock. Budding didn’t work at all. Grafting did with low success rates. For me the “best” results came from veneer grafting in summer. I hardly managed to get one graft going of each tree I brought scions. And I had plenty of wood to work with I can tell you.

Fingers crossed you get better results. My advice would be, to not risk the health of your mother plant by taking too much wood from it. Better play it safe, since your seedlings might have very special genes to it. Pileta generously provided me with seeds of the mother tree too. But I wasn’t able to keep the seedlings alive.

I agree, it is now in a garage that never goes below 25F, it was overwintered there last year and did well. With my fig and pomegranate trees. The smaller one is alive, just will not grow? Anyway the main mother plant has wood I want to remove anyway as I don’t want a central leader tree to keep height lower.
On the rootstock I developed two main leaders. One is for nigra, and the other is for Oscar, which I like best so far of the alba’s that are hardy here. I have no plans to try again. The tree will be Oscar. I may put another alba in the place of nigra if it fails.

Air layer should work. Works well on figs which is in the same family as mulberries.
I’m not a huge fan of grafting, but it has it’s place. I would rather have stuff on it’s own roots. Even stone fruit trees.

I consulted Lee Reich’s “The Pruning Book” and he states mulberries have a very high tolerance to pruning. So a small job is no big deal. I take that to mean you can cut more than the standard 1/3 off and be fine. I’m not coming close to that.

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I wanted to revisit this. I talked to a lot of growers in the last few days and it should graft on alba.

Last year I had some 1 and 2 year grafts fail because the trees were aborting a lot of branches and some young grafts fell victim. Man was I pissed I lost about 10 cultivars.
Conditions here were terrible last year. So hopefully better this spring.

@jujubemulberry

Hey can you suggest any pointers for success? Time of year etc.

Ive pollarded my Illinois Everbearing mulberry. It sulked and didnt fruit well the next year, but it boinced right back.

The thickest limbs i pruned were 2-3 inches in diameter ( or maybe a little bigger)

Scott

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i probably don’t do anything different where am at. Here in vegas, we typically graft when the rootstock shows signs of leafing out. And can’t really say am an expert since it is probably easier to graft mulberries here than in colder regions where late-frosts can damage branches(which already leafed out.) I could surmise grafting later in spring or early summer would increase chances of success in areas prone to cold nights/late frosts . Anyway, here, bark-grafting seems to have the highest rates of success with use of short budwood(two nodes at the most). We use paraffin as first layer, since it is more tacky, then cling plastic wrap for stability and to minimize sap bleed

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I know in Turkey they graft nigra mainly over alba. Probably also In the USA (you must know better than me). I only say, that THIS nigra is very very difficult to propagate. I only know for two success graftings, and they failed the next year. I make many bark grafts, buddings, chip buddings and one root graft without success. On the other hand grafting IE this year was without problems.
I think grafting over another nigra will be more successful.

They are slow to grow compared to alba. I notice grafts on alba heal fast. I would think it would not work either. I will find a way to propagate this tree, it may take some time, but I will.

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I’ve pollarded my Illinois Everberring the last few years and it has grown 8 ft and fruited each time. Maybe difference in local temperatures or other growing conditions such as my sandy soil. Mine is extremely vigorous. I prune late winter and twice in the summer.

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@Drew51 Nice to see another familiar name from OurFigs. Very curious to know how the Tsarigradska Mulberry panned out for you, Drew.

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